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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, having quite a dilema. probably not an expensive fix, but it will become one if i have to take it to somebody for them to troubleshoot.

2003 f250 7.3l

when i am rolling down the road, especially before the truck is warmed up, if i give it a little lead foot, after about 2000 rpm, the truck will either...

lose power and give me + 10 psi boost on my edge juice with attitude programmer monitor. (obviously i dont have that boost as the truck lost all power) and my dash will give me the check engine light, wait to start light, and water in fuel light, then after i release the throttle, i can reapply it and the truck will continue as normal with the funky boost reading for a few hundred feet before it resets and reads normal.

or

it will stall completely and i will have to stop with no power anything, put it in park and try starting it. sometimes it starts, other times i have to get under the hood and mess with my wires. i read another forum that said it was a probably short because they had the same problem, so it makes sense that jiggling wires would at least temporarily help.

I have taken my intake off and checked the 40 pin connector on the driver side valve cover, which people said was a trouble spot because it chaffs on the valve cover and searched as far along that bundle as i could see. no worn through spots.

on my fuel filter/water separator i had a 2 wire connector that had come disconnected and had fluid in it. i cleaned it with contact cleaner and reconnected it. when i did that, it took a notably longer time for the truck to do the stall fake out like i first mentioned, but still did it.

wondering what that connector does in relation to the filter/separator, but i am pretty sure my problem is isolated in this area. i had a friend tell me it might be my high pressure fuel pump, but im not sure what that would cost to replace or where to even begin. also read something about draining the water seperator. not sure.
 

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The connector on the fuel filter housing is for the fuel heater and the water in fuel sensor. If the fuel heater was bad, the fuse would blow and take out the power to the PCM also. That would cause a permanent stall until the heater was disconnected and the fuse was replaced. Having the connector off won't produce the problem you're having. Set it back to stock programming and see if you have the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thank you for a quick response. i did the most basic step i could find and i have only had one temp stall since. i replaced my fuel filter and drained the separator tank. i have a new tank of fuel and added some diesel kleen to hopefully clean up my lines. what fuel i drained out of my separator was so disgusting i dont even want to know how long it has been since it had been replaced. i have had the truck for almost 2 years and never replaced it. as for your recommendation, i had it set to stock programming and had no issues and set it to max setting and had no issues until out of the blue, accelerating to 45 mph at a good rate, but not to the floor, it did the temp stall. i am not sure what causes the fault now because it is so seldom. i have put the pedal to the floor a few times to see if i can control when it happens, but it only happened that once. will post again if it happens again and under what conditions and if it doesnt within a week or two, i will post the good news!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well it's pretty cold out today, under 40. Was going up a bridge and it temp stalled a few times on me. Same symptoms as before. I'm drawing a connection with the weather because it's been warmer lately and I haven't had issues. Now that it's cold again I'm back to figure 1.
 

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Does the tach act up when it does the 'stall'? If so, change the CPS. Maybe change it anyway. It's only $30. Use genuine Ford from Corey or riffraff. No parts store brands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It does do that. Will look into that today or tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is there any correlation between the cps and the water in fuel/wait to start lights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Today it wouldn't start. 29 outside. Haven't looked into cps yet. Took like 10 tries. You know how if the battery is low, the starter will spin faster, then slow down gradually? Well the starter would start fast then suddenly drop in speed. It was weird. Never done that before and I've never heard of it.
 

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A WAG: One battery is weak or has a crappy connection or cable that gets hot or resistive during prolonged cranking, and that battery drops-out and the starter slows down because now there's only one battery powering it.

When it finally starts when its cold-soaked, is there any smoke? Color? Does it stop straight away, or smoke for a least a minute or more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Smokes white when it's cold outside. Usually for a few minutes. Last time was a really hard start for like 30 seconds before the engine sounded normal. Still smoked for a while longer though.
 

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Long crank, hard start, white smoke for over a minute, are classic symptoms of glow plug relay, or glow plug problems.

The "slow down" during cranking could be an intermittent GPR making contact, and the draw of the plugs slows down the starter. Re-check the glow plug relay.
 
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