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2006 Ford F-350 6.0 DRW
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 F350 6.0
Im sure this is a rather popular topic, unfortunately, but I do have am image I wanted to attach as well and see if it makes sense to anyone. Couple months ago truck was draining batteries and wound not start after sitting over night, and finally tracked it back to the key cylinder not realizing the key was in the off position, I was going to put a new ignition switch in as well but there were none around so I started with the cylinder. Also had a code come up around the same time for Cam sensor low V so I picked up a new one and threw that in as well, this worked for a few weeks with no problems. Yesterday pulled up to a stop light and the truck fell flat on its face, no sluggish idle no codes nothing. Im using ForScan plugged in to my laptop and have been running through different possibilities for what it can be. IPR and ICP look good, voltage all looks good, the only thing I saw is that I lost FICMSYC right before it stalled. The truck was in park when it died, and if I let it sit for 5-10 minutes it will fire right back up, sometimes it will die right away and sometimes it will run for another 20-30 minutes. I have an idea of what I think it is but wanted to get some other more knowledgeable opinions first, also I am not a mechanic by any means I was just sick of paying other folks thousands to keep fixing the same damn thing over and over. Thanks in advance for any help.

Attached are 2 graphs, the top one shows the exact time I lost FICMSYC and the truck stalled, the bottom one is just showing more data.

If there are any other figured I need to get please let me know, im sure she will fire up right now I tried.
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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When you installed the new cam sensor, was it an OEM sensor? Was the surface of the block (where the CMP is mounted against) completely clear of any rust?

Also - check all 3 FICM plugs, but especially the plug nearest the degas bottle.
 

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2006 Ford F-350 6.0 DRW
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
When you installed the new cam sensor, was it an OEM sensor? Was the surface of the block (where the CMP is mounted against) completely clear of any rust?

Also - check all 3 FICM plugs, but especially the plug nearest the degas bottle.
No it sure wasn’t OEM, wiped it clean but not sure about rust, I did double check to make sure it was tight and seated properly. Checked all FICM plugs and moved things around while running to see if I could make it stall, it didn’t.

After it stalled I still had CAM/CRANK sync though, only lost FICMSYC. This may be just a coincidence, but one of the times it stalled(in park) I was moving the steering wheel back and forth and tilting the wheel up and down and it just died. I was not able to re create it again though.

also, I noticed on my Forscan that the KeyIN/OUT PID kept going in and out if I moved the key slightly forward or back. This never stalled the truck but just curious if it could play a part
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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If there is even a small "bulge" of rust, it can keep the sensor from getting close enough to the target. Will even feel tight when installing.

As far as not being OEM, that may have been a mistake....who can tell except people have a lot better luck with OEM sensors.
 

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2006 Ford F-350 6.0 DRW
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If there is even a small "bulge" of rust, it can keep the sensor from getting close enough to the target. Will even feel tight when installing.

As far as not being OEM, that may have been a mistake....who can tell except people have a lot better luck with OEM sensors.
I’ll grab an OEM one asap. If it was a CAM sensor issue wouldn’t I be losing CAM/CRANK SYC before I lost FICMSYC? Is there a PID that I can watch the CAM sensor other than CAMCRANK SYC?
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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I am not advising a replacement CMP yet, but there have been threads on aftermarket ones failing rather quickly.

There are electrical tests you can do to see if the CMP output is correct. Several threads o it recently, I'll see if I can link one.

SOMETIMES, with a flaky CMP, you can still get SYNC, but FICM Sync will be intermittent. But you are correct, usually you will see it in the SYNC PID.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am not advising a replacement CMP yet, but there have been threads on aftermarket ones failing rather quickly.

There are electrical tests you can do to see if the CMP output is correct. Several threads o it recently, I'll see if I can link one.

SOMETIMES, with a flaky CMP, you can still get SYNC, but FICM Sync will be intermittent. But you are correct, usually you will see it in the SYNC PID.
Gotcha thanks for the help, for a $45 part and 10 minutes of labor I’ll prob just throw a new one in. If you do find another helpful like that would be great.
Thanks
 
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