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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I literally just installed rosewood stage 1s about 2 weeks ago, and love the power. So much that Im dreaming about stage 3 hybrids. I was looking at stage 2s but I figure if Im going that far into mods, I might as well get hybrids. What kind of supporting mods will I be looking at? Specific names that have worked out before, please?
 

· Rangers Lead The Way!
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By stage 3 you mean 238/100s? if so you will need an e fuel system. The setup depends on you. There are dozens of them out there. A t500 HPOP will supply enough oil. A d66 turbo OR a t4 s366 kit for the air side of it. Now at this point head studs/new valve springs/push rods are a good idea. Also a built trans. A valve body and good TC will get ya only so far with that kind of power
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What else would I need to do to the trans?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I already planned on a heavy duty triple clutch torque coverter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Then what do you mean HD clutch setup. Can I have an example so I can figure a total price for supporting 238/100s
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also, should I plan on doing tc and vb on top of doing the clutches?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Then what do you mean HD clutch setup. Can I have an example so I can figure a total price for supporting 238/100s
Not sure if you saw this...
 

· Rangers Lead The Way!
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basically you need a built trans, depending on labor/parts you are looking at 3000-5000 for one. Like I said a BTS is the way to go if you want it done once and done right. If I could afford one id have it
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Holy cow! Could I get by with a triple clutch tc and a bts valve body on stage 2s?
 

· Delivers Pizzas For Fun!
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on stage 2s.... prolly, but still all depends on how u drive it and how u maintain it

for 238/100s u will need
-built trans or manual swap with HD clutch
-e-fuel
-intercooler
-turbo... id say a d66 woudl be too small, s366 is just at the end of its air (if de-tuned with chip wit would be great) but may wana look into a s466 or 468
-head studs
-valve springs
-push rods (unless u wana leave a weak link to bend before breaking rockers) just have to keep back pressures in check so it dont happen
 

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on stage 2s.... prolly, but still all depends on how u drive it and how u maintain it

for 238/100s u will need
-built trans or manual swap with HD clutch
-e-fuel
-intercooler
-turbo... id say a d66 woudl be too small, s366 is just at the end of its air (if de-tuned with chip wit would be great) but may wana look into a s466 or 468
-head studs
-valve springs
-push rods (unless u wana leave a weak link to bend before breaking rockers) just have to keep back pressures in check so it dont happen
I hate to hijack, but I think the OP might be curious about the same question.

When you say "keep back pressures in check" What do you mean? Also, at what point in valve springs a good upgrade? is that to keep boost for opening a valve, or high rpm?

thanks :))
 

· Rangers Lead The Way!
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Anything past stage 1s you are gonna want a built trans if you wanna actually hog on it.

An s366 is perfect for 238/100s and even capable of cleaning up 250/200s if your tuning is in check

Pressues mean drive pressure (what spins the turbo) and boost. If either get above say 40psi you are gonna start floating valves with stock valve springs. But tougher valve springs puts a serious hurting on stock push rods. So its a hand in hand thing to replace them both
 

· Delivers Pizzas For Fun!
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I hate to hijack, but I think the OP might be curious about the same question.

When you say "keep back pressures in check" What do you mean? Also, at what point in valve springs a good upgrade? is that to keep boost for opening a valve, or high rpm?

thanks :))
As joe said, your pressure is what drives the turbo. The reason u want to check them is because if they get too high (big fuel on small turbo) u will see high boost numbers but also high back pressures. Better off getting a turbo that flows more volume which will lower boost numbers but make more power with more air. But if drive pressures get too high u will start floating valves which then bends push rods and or brakes rocker arms. Its all about having that balance
 

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As joe said, your pressure is what drives the turbo. The reason u want to check them is because if they get too high (big fuel on small turbo) u will see high boost numbers but also high back pressures. Better off getting a turbo that flows more volume which will lower boost numbers but make more power with more air. But if drive pressures get too high u will start floating valves which then bends push rods and or brakes rocker arms. Its all about having that balance
My stage 2's on my stock turbo I can see 40psi. I'm guessing around this area its starting to lift the valves? Know that I know I will watch it, I guess I have been lucky!!!


Switching to a D66(my plan)....I plan to see an increase in power obviously, but will I also see a DECREASE in pressure? This sounds like its very good :).

it blows my mind that these engines are so resilient that one of the first upgrades you need to make the motor is something as simple as a valve spring, push rod, or rocker arm. They have such a simple, stress free life it seems..in comparison with other components. Crank, rods, pistons ect.
 
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