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Look at crescendo for speakers.
You could use soundqubed for a quality amp at a good price.
I also have a bnib set of soundqubed component speakers I'd sell you for a God price that I never used.

Your wattage calculations are wrong, because it's not a head unit + amplifier = output.
When putting an amplifier to the speakers you are bypassing the internal head unit amplifier.


These are what I had in my 6.0
Very high quality

This amp would work good in mono, putting just about 100w to each speaker.


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Good catch on the watts, I didn't notice that he was adding them together.

@j.flow is right, you're bypassing the head unit and solely powering by amp, or solely by head unit when you don't have an amp.

I still stand by the JBL GTO 609C's being your best option as far as sound image is concerned. Especially, with the price point of the link that I added.

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Im good with the quality of the sound that comes out, i just want it to be louder. Would that be an amp thing? It sounds good right before it gets mildly loud, you can still have a conversation at this level but anything louder it gets extremely distorted.

Speakers look pretty straight forward to install but I'd have to pay someone to do the amp, that's way above my wheel house
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Look at crescendo for speakers.
You could use soundqubed for a quality amp at a good price.
I also have a bnib set of soundqubed component speakers I'd sell you for a God price that I never used.

Your wattage calculations are wrong, because it's not a head unit + amplifier = output.
When putting an amplifier to the speakers you are bypassing the internal head unit amplifier.


These are what I had in my 6.0
Very high quality

This amp would work good in mono, putting just about 100w to each speaker.


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How much would you want for them? Can they be ran at a semi high volume (too loud for a conversation) without needing an amp? Would there me any modification needed? I've been reading that 6x8 was the biggest i could do.
 

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How much would you want for them? Can they be ran at a semi high volume (too loud for a conversation) without needing an amp? Would there me any modification needed? I've been reading that 6x8 was the biggest i could do.
Your speaker power is coming from your head unit or the amp, so that's really what you're going to need for added volume. You can do the amp, I have faith in you.

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Discussion Starter #25
Would an amp help with bass too or just volume?
 

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How much would you want for them? Can they be ran at a semi high volume (too loud for a conversation) without needing an amp? Would there me any modification needed? I've been reading that 6x8 was the biggest i could do.
Like 50 bucks + shipping. sound good to you?

They are loud, and clear. Youd need an amp to do it RIGHT. If you are going to do it, might as well do it right.

The amp install is really easy. Couple 12v wires to plug in and route. If you can build the things you build, you can do 12v wiring. If you need help, I'd be glad to walk you through things.
Only modification is you have to buy a conversion plate to fit 6.5" round speakers.

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Like 50 bucks + shipping. sound good to you?

They are loud, and clear. Youd need an amp to do it RIGHT. If you are going to do it, might as well do it right.

The amp install is really easy. Couple 12v wires to plug in and route. If you can build the things you build, you can do 12v wiring. If you need help, I'd be glad to walk you through things.
Only modification is you have to buy a conversion plate to fit 6.5" round speakers.

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If he doesn't want them, I'll buy them for sure if they're not coaxial.

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If he doesn't want them, I'll buy them for sure if they're not coaxial.

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They are component set with crossovers.

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Discussion Starter #30
Like 50 bucks + shipping. sound good to you?

They are loud, and clear. Youd need an amp to do it RIGHT. If you are going to do it, might as well do it right.

The amp install is really easy. Couple 12v wires to plug in and route. If you can build the things you build, you can do 12v wiring. If you need help, I'd be glad to walk you through things.
Only modification is you have to buy a conversion plate to fit 6.5" round speakers.

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That sounds good to me, do you have venmo? Is it 2 or 4 speakers? Ill send you a pm

I did a little more looking into the amp and I think ill give it a shot, ill probably buy the one you linked unless you have another suggestion.
 
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hey guys i have a Kenwood DDX6705S head unit and some sort of Kenwood speakers (PO put them in, i don't know the specs) and im hoping to get some audio help.

The stock speakers in my 06 KR sounded good to me but for some reason on my 05 once the volume gets up to around 30 or above the sound just falls flat and sounds terrible. Not sure how to describe it but instead of nice clear music it sounds like air and static if that makes sense. Should I be looking for an amp or new speakers?

Any recommendations for either? I'm trying to stay relatively cheap, around $250. Im not too big into audio, i mainly listen to country and some pop and i dont need the clearest sound possible, just something that can be relatively loud so I dont have to hear whatever is breaking on my truck lol.
Crutchfield sells much better speakers than Infinity or Polk Audio.
For around $150 a pair you can get the JL Audio CS-1 speakers in multiple sizes, the difference between the CS-1 and CS-2 is that the CS-2 includes speaker grilles, which you don’t need if you’re mounting the speakers in the factory location behind the door panel.

I replaced the stock sony speakers that came in my 2016 F-350 King Ranch with the JL CS-1’s and the difference in sound is amazing. I’ll also be replacing the factory sub with an 8” JL Audio sub.

Over the years I’ve built and won with competition sound systems using JL speakers, amps and Audio Control crossovers and parametric equalizers.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok I'm a little confused again lol. I get the concept of putting a speaker in, seems pretty straight forward but the one @j.flow linked has 2 speakers and 2 tweeters I think is what they're called. How / where do those go?

What is the box thing in the picture and how does that install?

Where do I get the mounting plates for the speakers?

When I buy an amp do they usually come with the wires I need or do I need to buy them? If i need to buy them, where should I get them / what do i get?
 
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Ok I'm a little confused again lol. I get the concept of putting a speaker in, seems pretty straight forward but the one @j.flow linked has 2 speakers and 2 tweeters I think is what they're called. How / where do those go?

What is the box thing in the picture and how does that install?

Where do I get the mounting plates for the speakers?

When I buy an amp do they usually come with the wires I need or do I need to buy them? If i need to buy them, where should I get them / what do i get?
Lord help this child... Please keep asking questions for real, because I do want to help as I've been there before. This is definitely something that we can help you get through.

The speakers go in the door where your factory speakers are, the tweets go in the pillars of your windshield, then connect to their own amp channel. The box is a crossover that the amp hooks into, and outputs to the speakers.

You can order mounting plates online or get them from a local speaker shop.

Nah, the amp won't come with wires, unless it's a lot, but there's a great wire kit store online, I will look for the link.

You definitely need to get OFC wires, though.

There's a big difference between copper-clad aluminum (CCA) and oxygen-free copper (OFC) wiring. ... Copper wiring on the other hand produces less heat and reduces the overall strain on your car's system. Another benefit of OFC wiring includes less oxidation. CCA is cheap crap.

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Discussion Starter #34
Do i have to install the tweeters? That seems way out of my wheel house lol.

Does each speaker get a crossover or just front and rear?

A link would be much appreciated!
 

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Do i have to install the tweeters? That seems way out of my wheel house lol.

Does each speaker get a crossover or just front and rear?

A link would be much appreciated!
The speakers are going to wire to the amp.
Along with set of rca cables for each channel from the head unit. These are singal wires.
You will have a remote turn on wire from the head unit to amp, as well as power and ground. Fused power from the battery.
As well as positive, negative to each speaker. The tweeters will wire from that crossover box and essentially connect to the speakers. You can mount that cross over box inside your door skin.
If you are wiring subs also, you will need the same cabling.
If wiring multiple amps, go with distribution block. Running 1 large leg to the block, being distributed into 2 smaller legs connecting to the amp. This cleans the wiring up nicely.
Order some flex loom, and heat shrink as well as some terminals.
I order all of my wiring and install accessories from knuconceptz.com
Its much better imo to build your own "install kit" than to buy one of the pre fab kits. You can tailor it to your needs, pick your colors and overall end up with a much better end neater install and end product.

Each "component set" will come with a cross over.

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The speakers are going to wire to the amp.
Along with set of rca cables for each channel from the head unit. These are singal wires.
You will have a remote turn on wire from the head unit to amp, as well as power and ground. Fused power from the battery.
As well as positive, negative to each speaker. The tweeters will wire from that crossover box and essentially connect to the speakers. You can mount that cross over box inside your door skin.
If you are wiring subs also, you will need the same cabling.
If wiring multiple amps, go with distribution block. Running 1 large leg to the block, being distributed into 2 smaller legs connecting to the amp. This cleans the wiring up nicely.
Order some flex loom, and heat shrink as well as some terminals.
I order all of my wiring and install accessories from knuconceptz.com
Its much better imo to build your own "install kit" than to buy one of the pre fab kits. You can tailor it to your needs, pick your colors and overall end up with a much better end neater install and end product.

Each "component set" will come with a cross over.

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Knuconcepts was the site I was thinking of. Thank you.

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Don't let this blow your mind, but you definitely need to watch this dude. He's very skilled with car audio.


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Discussion Starter #38
The speakers are going to wire to the amp.
Along with set of rca cables for each channel from the head unit. These are singal wires.
You will have a remote turn on wire from the head unit to amp, as well as power and ground. Fused power from the battery.
As well as positive, negative to each speaker. The tweeters will wire from that crossover box and essentially connect to the speakers. You can mount that cross over box inside your door skin.
If you are wiring subs also, you will need the same cabling.
If wiring multiple amps, go with distribution block. Running 1 large leg to the block, being distributed into 2 smaller legs connecting to the amp. This cleans the wiring up nicely.
Order some flex loom, and heat shrink as well as some terminals.
I order all of my wiring and install accessories from knuconceptz.com
Its much better imo to build your own "install kit" than to buy one of the pre fab kits. You can tailor it to your needs, pick your colors and overall end up with a much better end neater install and end product.

Each "component set" will come with a cross over.

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The "component set" is a speaker and a crossover box, right? How many speakers and boxes are you selling me? I'm attempting to figure out how much of what wires I need to get. Also how do i know what wire from the head unit goes to the amp? Ive been watching videos of amp installs and they are running a wire from the amp and splicing it into the head unit.

Im not doing a sub and I'll just do 1 amp
 

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Any amp recommendations? If i understand this correctly, I want an amp to match the RMS the speaker says it can handle, right? If the speaker can handle 60, the head unit puts out 22, i need an amp that puts out 38 RMS, anything higher would be a waste of money, am I understanding that correctly? When the speakers do need to be replaced ill probably get something similar, at least in a similar price point.
No, the head unit puts out 22 watts rms (max) and 50 watts peak (that's something like when the base hits, not as much volume related). So, match speakers to the head unit 20-39 watt rms and 55 to 70 peak watts.... OR, get an Amp and match the speakers to the rating of the Amp, or the Amp to the rating of the speakers (amplifier peak power can be turned down, speaker peak power can not be turned up). The Amp takes the head units rating out of the equation, as the Amp is the only supplier of power to the speaker.
Be careful when picking an Amp as their ratings are deceitful. A 1000 watt Amp (250x4 peak power) is rated on 2 ohm speakers. Most door speakers are 4 ohm, so the rating of the Amp changes. The 4 ohm rating (peak power and rms power) will be listed, it's just not what the Amp advertises (a 1000w Amp is more like 450-600).
I don't care for my infinity speakers, but I'm tone Def in certain ranges. I just don't think they carry base well and the mid is mediocre.
Things to know;
RMS=wattage for regular listening.
Peak power=maximum power when there is a spike in sound, like base hitting or an opera singer hitting their high spot.
An Amp supplies the power to the speakers, the stereo supplies signal to the Amp, therefore you either use the rating of the Amp or the stereo (if you don't have an Amp), never combine the numbers.
The best sound comes from speakers being match to the power being supplied to them, it's ok to have a speaker that out powers the Amp, not the other way around (an Amp can be "turned down") so don't buy a 1600 watt Amp and a set of speakers that add up to 100 watts (25 watts each x 4) or, 400 watt speakers (100 watts x 4) with a 200 watt Amp. So, pick the speakers that you ultimately want to end up with, buy an Amp to match those speakers. If your not buying the speakers and Amp at the same time, get the Amp first, turn the Amp down to match you current speakers.
IMO you should get the adapters and run 6.5" speakers and drop the 6x8s all together, if you like good sound, this is valid, otherwise stick with the speakers you have, get an Amp that pushes 400 watts @ 4ohms and call it good.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
When wiring the speakers to the amp, does the power wire just go straight to the amp instead of going to the head unit, or does it go to both the head unit and the amp? Do I run the ground wire to the amp too or just the power wire?

From what I gather I need the main power cable to go from the battery to the amp, some sort of fuse for the main power cable, a ground for the amp, a turn on lead to go from the amp to the head unit, speaker wire to go from the speakers to the amp, and 2 RCA cables to go from the head unit to the amp. Is there anything I'm missing? What gauge for each should I use and how long should they be? I think the main power and ground would be 4 gauge OFC, the turn on lead and speaker wire i think would either be 18 gauge or 16 gauge and the rca cable is just rca cable, does that sound right?
 
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