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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys i have a Kenwood DDX6705S head unit and some sort of Kenwood speakers (PO put them in, i don't know the specs) and im hoping to get some audio help.

The stock speakers in my 06 KR sounded good to me but for some reason on my 05 once the volume gets up to around 30 or above the sound just falls flat and sounds terrible. Not sure how to describe it but instead of nice clear music it sounds like air and static if that makes sense. Should I be looking for an amp or new speakers?

Any recommendations for either? I'm trying to stay relatively cheap, around $250. Im not too big into audio, i mainly listen to country and some pop and i dont need the clearest sound possible, just something that can be relatively loud so I dont have to hear whatever is breaking on my truck lol.
 

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your head-unit or deck supplies some of the power to the speakers. Its why amplifiers improve things (usually) but there are limits with head-unit output, speakers capacity, and the structure the speaker sits in etc. If your deck has a lower rating than the speakers then the head unit will be the limiting factor in quality in addition to brand/design etc. I would reach out to Crutch =field. They would be able to assist you with the technical specs in increasing the spears ability paired with the head unit(deck).

Crutchfield 99% of the time includes the little wire-harness adapters for most vehicles. Only needed if the previous owner didn't hack them off already though.
 
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Your starting with the best IMO (Kenwood). Although they have true 22w/50rms un amped. The upper "Excelon" series is best for amps. Im in a different camp and prefer sound quality/matched speakers over the need to amp up. either way your starting with a great base.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys! Based on the rest of the trucks, I'll put money down and say the PO cut up the harness lol.

I looked at Crutchfield and Cartoys, the 2 speakers I came back with were the Polk audio db572 5x7 or the Infity Kappa 86cfx 6x8 (3rd option would be slightly cheaper and do the Infinity reference).

Polk audio db572:
5"x7" polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surround
3/4" silk dome tweeterhandles up to 75 watts RMS (225 watts peak power)
frequency range: 35-22,000 Hz
sensitivity: 92 dB
top-mount depth: 2-1/4"
grilles not included

Infinity Kappa 86cfx:
Power Handling 60W RMS, 180W peak
Sensitivity (@ 2.83V) 94dB
Frequency Response 75Hz – 25kHz
Voice Coil Diameter 1 in. (25mm)
Impedance 2.5 ohms

This is from Cartoys, they say it'll fit but Crutchfield says it won't. Crutchfield gives different specs for it too so im not sure which to go by. Does anyone have any opinions on either of these / recommend something different?
 

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5x7 or 6x8 is the stock speaker size, you can run the 5 1/4 speakers as well. The next thing to consider is using a mounting adapter and running 6 1/2" speakers, maybe with separates.
IIWU, I'd check to make sure the wires are all in line, sometimes one set of +/- gets crossed and takes the sound out of all the speakers higher volume.
Running an Amp cleans up the power and the sound to the speakers. A speaker with 45 watt rms is under powered by about 60% from a head unit. So, if you listen to music at higher volumes, an Amp will be necessary.
An aftermarket head unit paired with stock speakers are usually a good match, use aftermarket speakers and an Amp becomes necessary since head units don't have enough power to drive good speakers at higher volumes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How do i figure out how much RMS my head unit is good for? Would I be better off getting an amp instead of speakers?
 

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As far as I know all 2 din Kenwoods are 22 w rms 50 peak. That's not some "BS" number like most jippo h/u.'s.

The worse sound comes from buying a speaker rated @ alto more Watts than you can GIVE them . That's like putting 44" tires on a Geo....
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
As far as I know all 2 din Kenwoods are 22 w rms 50 peak. That's not some "BS" number like most jippo h/u.'s.

The worse sound comes from buying a speaker rated @ alto more Watts than you can GIVE them . That's like putting 44" tires on a Geo....
So what watt RMS and peak should i be looking for?

EDIT:
just took a look, I have infinity reference speakers on all 4 corners.
 

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So what watt RMS and peak should i be looking for?
Those Polks are in a good range as most head units don't push out more than 50 RMS. Eventually, if not now, you will need to get an amp to make them sound good. You might even consider adding base blockers or an EQ on 3 ways if you have another way of producing base.

Round door speakers or speakers in general will produce the best sound image and have the most drop.

JBL GTOs and Eclipse are excellent speakers, too.

These come with a crossover, too.



Although, I don't think this really enough to run 4 of those GTOs, you could get away with this and channel crossing to increase it's output.
Check this out at Amazon.com
JBL GX-A604 435W 4-Channel GX Series Amplifier Amazon.com: JBL GX-A604 435W 4-Channel GX Series Amplifier: Car Electronics

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Discussion Starter #11
Those Polks are in a good range as most head units don't push out more than 50 RMS. Eventually, if not now, you will need to get an amp to make them sound good. You might even consider adding base blockers or an EQ on 3 ways if you have another way of producing base.

Round door speakers or speakers in general will produce the best sound image and have the most drop.

JBL GTOs and Eclipse are excellent speakers, too.

These come with a crossover, too.


Check this out at Amazon.com
JBL GX-A604 435W 4-Channel GX Series Amplifier Amazon.com: JBL GX-A604 435W 4-Channel GX Series Amplifier: Car Electronics

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Thanks, looks like an amp is the way I have to go, it already has infinity reference speakers in it. I think at 1 time it did have an amp, it has a knob on the dash that I thought was to change the high idle rpm but it never did anything. I broke the harness when I took the dash out but I can't remember where the wires went so I searched everywhere for an amp and couldn't find one.
 
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Thanks, looks like an amp is the way I have to go, it already has infinity reference speakers in it. I think at 1 time it did have an amp, it has a knob on the dash that I thought was to change the high idle rpm but it never did anything. I broke the harness when I took the dash out but I can't remember where the wires went so I searched everywhere for an amp and couldn't find one.
Ah, that knob might have been a base control knob, if they were an audiophile.

You could get an amp, but you're gonna need to pull a speaker to get it's ratings off the magnet back, if it still has them on there. Then, you could hook it up and see how they sound.

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ah, that knob might have been a base control knob, if they were an audiophile.

You could get an amp, but you're gonna need to pull a speaker to get it's ratings off the magnet back, if it still has them on there. Then, you could hook it up and see how they sound.

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It says 60 watt RMS, 180 peak

If i understand this correctly, I want an amp to match the RMS the speaker says it can handle, right? If the speaker can handle 60, the head unit puts out 22, i need an amp that puts out 38 RMS, anything higher would be a waste of money, am I understanding that correctly?
 

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It says 60 watt RMS, 180 peak
On the speakers? I'd change those out to something that is a better performer. Those have relatively low numbers and won't produce the crisp sound that you're looking for, IMO. Do you know how old they are? That speaker cone media does wear out with time.

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
On the speakers? I'd change those out to something that is a better performer. Those have relatively low numbers and won't produce the crisp sound that you're looking for, IMO. Do you know how old they are? That speaker cone media does wear out with time.

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Yeah, that's on the sticker on the back.

I have no idea how old they are. I'd assume around 5 years old as from what i can tell that's when the majority of the truck was modified.
 

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Yeah, that's on the sticker on the back.

I have no idea how old they are. I'd assume around 5 years old as from what i can tell that's when the majority of the truck was modified.
Ok, well, I change my original statement, get an amp to push the speakers that want to eventually get, turn the power down on it, and see how those sound. If they're not completely gone, they should last until you get what you want, or as long as you can stand. Then, all of the hard work is done and you'll only need to replace speakers going forward.

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, well, I change my original statement, get an amp to push the speakers that want to eventually get, turn the power down on it, and see how those sound. If they're not completely gone, they should last until you get what you want, or as long as you can stand. Then, all of the hard work is done and you'll only need to replace speakers going forward.

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Any amp recommendations? If i understand this correctly, I want an amp to match the RMS the speaker says it can handle, right? If the speaker can handle 60, the head unit puts out 22, i need an amp that puts out 38 RMS, anything higher would be a waste of money, am I understanding that correctly? When the speakers do need to be replaced ill probably get something similar, at least in a similar price point.
 

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Any amp recommendations? If i understand this correctly, I want an amp to match the RMS the speaker says it can handle, right? If the speaker can handle 60, the head unit puts out 22, i need an amp that puts out 38 RMS, anything higher would be a waste of money, am I understanding that correctly? When the speakers do need to be replaced ill probably get something similar, at least in a similar price point.
Root mean square (RMS) power handling, refers to how much continuous power the speaker can handle. If your speakers are rated to handle 50 watts RMS each, then select an amplifier that will deliver approximately 50 watts RMS to each speaker. The second is the "Max" or "Peak" rating which is the maximum amount of power that can be applied for short periods of time without causing damage.

So, yes, you are correct. Those JBL GTOs are something that you should consider for that price point, they've actually come down a lot, now. $100 for a set with crossovers, they used to be $300 or more.

Pioneer makes some of the best amps, JL's are a second runner up (very comparable), Phoenix Gold were awesome (not sure you can find them anymore, Rockford's, Kenwood, the JBL I posted for component speakers, kicker, Polk, and Eclipse are all good. There are a lot of new brands that I'm not familiar with, now.


Stay away from anything Sony related, they only make good headphones . Don't buy stuff that is sold at Walmart.

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Look at crescendo for speakers.
You could use soundqubed for a quality amp at a good price.
I also have a bnib set of soundqubed component speakers I'd sell you for a God price that I never used.

Your wattage calculations are wrong, because it's not a head unit + amplifier = output.
When putting an amplifier to the speakers you are bypassing the internal head unit amplifier.


These are what I had in my 6.0
Very high quality

This amp would work good in mono, putting just about 100w to each speaker.


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It says 60 watt RMS, 180 peak

If i understand this correctly, I want an amp to match the RMS the speaker says it can handle, right? If the speaker can handle 60, the head unit puts out 22, i need an amp that puts out 38 RMS, anything higher would be a waste of money, am I understanding that correctly?
The answer is yes. But, and this is just my experience. I personally have experiaced better sound quality with a good under rated (Watts) speaker. My enjoyment is to be surrounded in what sounds that you can distinguish each instrument and left to right, front to back. To me that's my thing. I went thru the "my magnet is bigger that yours" thing but realized blowing my ears out and rattling my license plate is no bueno if I can't hear...

My analogy is this can be like putting on oversized sticky expensive performance tires that are being pushed by a stock 36 h.p. VW beetle. This will make the original acceleration worse. More h.p. from the motor with stock tires will increase performance... To a point. Its always a catch up game unless you understand your end goal and build it initially.

Simply tho if your volume is planned to be pegged or (ub)used with high amplification/volume then over watt the speakers to keep them from blowing and or cross over them with a big boom boom box

Biggest suggestion would e is to be honest with what you want.
 
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