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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 07 cc 10,0000 miles have oil around the back of the oil pan near the bell near the trans, not alot of oil??? Any ideas rear main sealmaybe ? What is the black rubber acess piece on the bell behind the oil pan for? Thanks for any help...
 

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If it aint a CAT itsa DOG
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I believe that the 6.0's have had some issues with rear main leaks. A tech should be able to elaborate on it for ya. The access cover lets you get to the flywheel.
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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Lots of areas for leaks. The dealership needs to put dye in the oil to be able to make sure they find the actual source of the leak.

Most Common Places for Oil to Leak (use a dye to find actual leak point)
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/excerpts/index.php
CAC Tubes = 21%
ICP Sensor = 16%
Glow Plug Harness = 14%
Cam/Crank Position Sensor =14%
Front Crankshaft Seal = 8%
Upper to lower block seal (skirt) = 5% (bedplate?)
Page 22: Lubrication System
HPOP cover = 4%
Oil Cooler (this leaks into engine coolant) = 4%
Front or Rear Engine Cover = 3%
Rear Crank Seal = 3%
Turbo Charger & VGT actuator = 2%
Covers (oil pan, valve covers, breather) = 2%
Cracked or Porous Block or Head = 1%
IPR valve/Engine Lube oil pump = <1%

Oil leak - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Ford Doctors Diesel Technician Society

6.0 PowerStroke bulletins
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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More stuff:

Symptom / Solution: Oil Leaks
If your seeing oil down on the passenger side, climb on top of the motor and get one of those inspection mirrors with a light and check under your turbo as far as you can see. Have any of you guys with this leak had any work done to the truck that would consist of pulling the turbo? If you haven't done it before its a pain to set that turbo back in place correctly without wedging something. There is an o-ring on the oil tube for the return coming out of the turbo that gets nicked a lot and might need to be replaced. Also check to make sure the same tube is pushed fully into the block, the turbo is all that holds it into place and I've noticed a couple of times when I had mine out that even when the turbo was fully in place the tube is only partially in and needed a little "help" (with a long thin bar and a small hammer) to tap it in place. I actually found this out one of the times the dealer had it, found they were in a hurry and had that plus a couple of other connectors were off.

"Oil Leak from Rear of Engine Area: Stuck/bouncing Speedo and/or Tach, 2006 Trucks Built Before 1-26-06:
Before diagnosing the instrument cluster for this issue, first check for codes stored in the ABS module or engine computer. If there are no relevant codes, check the vehicle speed input to the cluster while stopped. If the input and the displayed speed do not match, drive the vehicle and monitor the speedometer at 0, 20, 40 and 60 MPH as indicated on the scan tool. If the speedometer is off by more than 5 MPH, replace the cluster. If the speedometer display matches the sensor input, diagnose the ABS rear axle speed sensor and wiring, and the ABS module wiring. For tachometer concerns, check the RPM signal in the engine computer against the tach reading at 1000 and 2000 RPM. If the display is more than 250 RPM off, replace the cluster. Broadcast Message 5165, TSB 06-7-4."

"05 6.0 PowerStroke HP Oil Leak at Injectors:
Some vehicles may exhibit a hard or no start with low ICP pressure readings. Remove the valve covers and inspect for oil leakage where the oil rail installs onto the injectors. If leakage is found the affected injector should be replaced. Inspect for a missing oil inlet o-ring or spring clip. If these parts are missing, they will need to be located or engine damage will result. Look inside the rocker carrier on top of the heads, in the oil pan and on the oil pick up screen. If the missing parts are not in these locations, remove the lube oil pump and regulator and inspect. Broadcast Message 3862, 4582, 5019."

"2005 High Pressure Oil System Leak:
Some 2005 SuperDuties and Excursions built after 1-10-05 may experience symptoms related to high pressure oil system leakage, most commonly a hard/no start when the engine is warm. If diagnosis indicates a leak at the HP oil pump, inspect the pump quick connect fitting. If the leak is at the fitting o-ring, replace the fitting with P/N W301727. Broadcast Message 4320, 4932."

"2005 High Pressure Oil System Test Adapter:
Pickups and vans built after 11-4-04 and Excursions built after 1-10-05 have a revised standpipe and retaining plug. Trucks built after 9-29-03 that have had the heads removed may also have the revised standpipe as it is included in the head gasket kit. Pressure test adapter 303-1163 is now available to test the high pressure system on these engines. Broadcast Message 4246."

"2005 Front Crankshaft Seal Leak:
Some trucks built between 12-15-04 and 1-25-05 may develop a leak at the front crank seal. This leak may appear to be coming from the oil regulator plug at the bottom of the timing cover. Florescent dye should be added to the engine oil. Trace the leak with a black light with the crank pulley removed to verify to source of the leak. Broadcast message 4217. This should be applied to all 6.0's with oil leaks that appear to come from the pressure regulator."

"6.0 PowerStroke Fuel Filter or Oil Filter Housing Leaks:
The following parts are now available to correct leaks at the fuel filter and oil filter housings:
Primary (frame) Fuel Filter Housing: 3C3Z-9N180-BA
Primary Fuel Filter Cap: 3C3Z-9G270-BA
Primary Fuel Filter O-ring: 3C3Z-9364-BA
Secondary Fuel/Oil Filter Housing, <9-30-03: 3C3Z-9C166-AA
Secondary Fuel/Oil Filter Housing, 9-30-03>: 4C3Z-9C166-AA
Secondary Fuel Filter Cap: 3C3Z-9G270-AA
Secondary Fuel Filter O-ring: 3C3Z-9364-AA
Oil Filter Cap, F-Series: 3C3Z-6766-CA
Oil Filter Cap, Econoline: 4C2Z-6766-BA
Oil Filter O-ring: 3C3Z-6840-AA
Broadcast Message 3744, 3743, 4683"

"Oil Filter Lid Leaks:
To prevent leaks from the oil filter cover, be sure to replace the sealing o-ring when performing oil changes. Torque the cover to 18 ft/lbs. If leaks continue to occur, check the housing for burrs and the lid for damage. If using an aftermarket filter, try a factory one. Broadcast Message 3403."

"Oil Leaks from Lower Engine Area:
Some 6.0 engine may exhibit an oil leak that appears to be coming from the lower crankcase (bedplate), upper or lower oil pan, rear main seal, or front or rear covers. First inspect the cam and crank position sensors to ensure the leak is not the o-ring on one of these sensors. If the sensor(s) is wet, remove it and replace the o-rings. Cam sensor (driver side): 3C3Z-9N693-HA and -JA; crank sensor (passenger side): 3C3Z-9C064-DA.
An oil leak may occur at front or rear covers if they were removed without cutting the sealing joints behind them. Broadcast Message 1268"

"Oil Leaks from Front and/or Rear Crank Seals:
If an oil leak has been verified as coming from either the front or rear crankshaft seals, the crankshaft end play must be checked to ensure it is 0.020"" or less. If within specs, replace the seal using the correct tools and procedures. Broadcast Message 1240"

"2003-2004 Oil Leak from Head Gasket:
Some engine may exhibit what appears to be an oil leak from the head gasket. Since there is no pressurized oil at the head gasket, a leak at this location is unlikely. Inspect the following area instead: turbo oil feed and return, oil cooler, HP oil pump cover, ICP sensor, IPR valve, valve cover gasket, rocket carrier gasket, Injector and glow plug ports and crankcase breather port. Use florescent dye and an UV lamp to pinpoint the source of the leak. If the leak is from the head gasket, the head should be removed and it and the block checked for flatness. Broadcast Message 0873."

"Rear Main Seal Leak:
Some trucks with the 6.0 may exhibit what looks like an oil leak from the bellhousing, presumably for the rear main seal. This actually may be excessive grease from the torque converter pilot melting and running out of the bellhousing. It is recommended that 3 ounces of florescent dye be added to the oil, the truck driven, then the leak inspected with an UV lamp. If dye is detected, the engine should be inspected for leaks on top that may be running down the back of the engine. If no upper leaks are detected, replace the rear main seal. Broadcast Message 1017"

"Low Lube Oil Pressure:
Some 6.0 engines may exhibit low lube oil pressure caused by leakage in the high pressure oil system. To determine if this is the case, remove the oil filter and hold down the oil drain valve on the left side of the filter housing with a screwdriver. Watch for oil flow with the engine cranking. If flow is present, diagnose the HP oil system for leaks. If no flow is present, diagnose the lube oil system. Broadcast Message 1044"

"2005 High Pressure Oil System Test Adapter:
Pickups and vans built after 11-4-04 and Excursions built after 1-10-05 have a revised standpipe and retaining plug. Trucks built after 9-29-03 that have had the heads removed may also have the revised standpipe as it is included in the head gasket kit. Pressure test adapter 303-1163 is now available to test the high pressure system on these engines. Broadcast Message 4246."

"Manual Transmission Fluid Leak:
This may be mistaken for a rear main seal leak. To diagnose, add florescent dye to the transmission and test drive the truck. Inspect the transmission for leaks with a UV lamp. Broadcast Message 1490"
 

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Could be the bed plate. That's what mines in the shop for right now. They have to pull the cab off to fix it.
 

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oil leak and cover question

Ok first, the black rubber cover is to access the torque converter bolts. (ok now the tech crap) according to Ford there is a difference between a leak and just being wet with oil. if it is not dripping it is not considered a "leak". Now the real truth, it is really hard to say, however if it just "wet" and not dripping then most likely it is no big issue. I personally have not really seen very many rear main seals leaking on a 6.0L. Could be oil soaked CAC tube grommets (the blue flexable sections at the ends of the tubes going to intercooler) it could be a leak at the turbo itself, either the drain back tube or from the oil inlet. IT is really hard to say, but it is a diesel, they do tend to leak a bit of oil. If you are really concerned about it, and it is leaving puddles in your driveway you can clean the top of the engine with some brake clean and hose it down then drive it, when you return from your drive open the hood and see what is wet.:icon_ford:
 

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If it aint a CAT itsa DOG
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Could be the bed plate. That's what mines in the shop for right now. They have to pull the cab off to fix it.
Thats what i was thinking of. That seems to be another common place to leak on the 6 ohhhhs
 

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Ok first, the black rubber cover is to access the torque converter bolts. (ok now the tech crap) according to Ford there is a difference between a leak and just being wet with oil. if it is not dripping it is not considered a "leak". Now the real truth, it is really hard to say, however if it just "wet" and not dripping then most likely it is no big issue. I personally have not really seen very many rear main seals leaking on a 6.0L. Could be oil soaked CAC tube grommets (the blue flexable sections at the ends of the tubes going to intercooler) it could be a leak at the turbo itself, either the drain back tube or from the oil inlet. IT is really hard to say, but it is a diesel, they do tend to leak a bit of oil. If you are really concerned about it, and it is leaving puddles in your driveway you can clean the top of the engine with some brake clean and hose it down then drive it, when you return from your drive open the hood and see what is wet.:icon_ford:
true, if its not dripping its "normal seepage" as some would say:thumb: . some engine degreaser and a run to the car wash would do it okay,then drive it for a little while and if its really got a leak it will show up again soon. just dont directly spray any connectors or anything.
 

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Mine had the leak in the same place, rear main
 

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Do the oil feed lines on the 7.3s leak too if I happen to take off the turbo and loosen that oil feed line? What could be something on mine that makes the passenger side be coated with oil, all on the spring, and under the truck too? I dont find hardly any oil in the valley, if any at all.
 

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If it aint a CAT itsa DOG
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Mine is dripping on the drivers side valve cover. Its coming out of the CCV where it goes into the intake. Then the oil is running down the valve cover and down the back of the engine. I also don't have much oil in the valley. Rear mains are very un common on the 7.3's. Say NIck can you post a pic of where yours is leaking from? I'm not sure off hand what would leak on the pass side. My pass side is totally dry.
 

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well, I dunno where its leaking from, I just know that the underside of my truck, from the trans rearward is dripping oil after I stop driving it. I dont have any dripping from the oil pan, but I do notice alot of oil coating my passenger spring, and also, all over my crossmember of the trans. It was really dripping when I made a 2 hour drive the other day. i bet it dripped a 12" circle in 5 minutes after I stopped. that makes me think its either comming from therear main, or somewhere on the rear of the engine. I did just rebuild my turbo. I did replace the oring on top of the pedistal, but not the ones underneath. I never had this bad of a problem before the turbo rebuild.
 

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If it aint a CAT itsa DOG
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try putting some dye in it and getting a black light. It will help you diagnose where its coming from.
 

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dye from the dealer?
 

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I wouldn't go running out the door to have the the seals fixed with only 10k on it. I noticed my bell housing had wet oil on it and got real nervous b/c the truck was new and only had like 3k miles on it. It seem pretty common, and I'd wait it out until you know it's a leak. Mine comes and goes... pretty much gone now that I have 12.5k on it. Keep wiping it up and keeping an eye on it. My 2 cents.
 

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my 03 has had the rear cover gasket, oil pan gasket, CPS o ring replaced b/c they leaked, I just got it back 2 days ago and its still leaking...:dunno:
 

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If it aint a CAT itsa DOG
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dye from the dealer?
You can get it from ford if you want. Probably better that you do, just incase they have to look at it with their lights. Its only like 4 bucks. Dump it in and run it around for a while and at night take a black light under the hood and back by the bell housing and see if you can trace the leak. You might be suprised:thumb:
 
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