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Discussion Starter #1
HELP ME PLEASE!!! I was installing a voltmeter the other day and screwed up big time! I put the positive wire to the ignition switch like the instructions stated but messed up, as I was tightening the leads, had the truck running to make sure guage was working, SHOULD HAVE SHUT IT OFF!!! I slipped and shorted the wires and the truck shut off. Tried to start it again, turn the key no dash lights started won't engage, just heater is coming on. Replaced the ignition switch, still nothing. There are 2 power wires coming into the ignition switch but the one wire that I put the voltmeter to(guage now disconnected) now has no power to it. If I jump power to that wire using my test light the dash lights come on and I can start the truck just runs really rough and as soon as I remove power to the wire truck shuts off again. I have no idea whats going on Ford says I may have shorted a module which is thousands to fix as I am 200 kms from the ford dealer and would need to get it towed!!! All of my fuses are good. Are there any fuseable links anywhere that may have been shorted I am going crazy here as I can barely afford to get it towed nevermind fixing it!
 

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Could have shorted out a relay. Check your fuses really good. Especially the ones underneath the hood.
 

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What year truck, auto/manual, what color wire has no power now and where exactly is it located? I can pull up alldata and trace it back for you..
 

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if your looking to just get it to the dealer, if it were me I would run a jumper wire where you say the test light lets it start. Other than that I would think it has to be a fuse somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay so found a blown fuse, must have missed it before so have power now and will start BUT. hard to start, cranks slow, when it does fire up idles for about 2 seconds then quits?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
truck is 2005 F350 auto. Everything was working fine before the short, could a relay be screwed up now?
 

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Could be another fuse somewhere or a relay. Hopefully you didn't fry your pcm. What color wire did you short out and where exactly is it located?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
it was red with green stripe. When you are looking at the ignition switch it is the top right wire or the top on the closest to the seat
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just talked to a Ford tech he said could just be a bad battery. If theres not enough voltage the FICM will die. So got it on the charger now and we'll see. It was sitting for 2 days so if a battery was shot would explain why nothing now. Voltmeter reads 10 volts when you turn the key on and drops off to nothing once you try to crank so we'll see in a few hrs if thats the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #10
okay so charged my batteries for a while and jumped it with another battery, turned over fine but still won't stay running! hard to get it to fire and when it does runs for a second then dies?!?!?! Volts reading only 8-10 when cranking? still possibly its a dead battery doing this or is my FICM shot? Could a relay do this as well?
 

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you should have 2 batteries, if your testing them while their still hooked up it gives you a false reading. You have to test them individually.

A low battery can wreak havoc on stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
okay I'll let them charge for a while and try to get it started so I can take them in to get them tested
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Both batteries are right dead. Whole sytem is only reading 10 volts and drops off when you attempt to crank. Going to let them both charge up and hopefully it will start and stay running
 

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needs more than a 45 minute charge if their completely dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
would dead batteries cause it to start idle fine for a second or two then die though?
 

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Yup. Quit trying to start the truck on dead batteries as it can kill your very expensive FICM.

Make sure to charge them overnight and make sure they are reading strong before you try and start the truck. Any less than 11.6 volts key on (correct me if I'm wrong techs) and you should be replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
okay i'll leave them on charge overnight and test them in the morning! I'll post the outcome tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay so went and tried to start the truck this morning. Batteries didnt seem to take a great charge overnight. Voltmeter was still reading close to 12V when I turned the key on but as soon as you start cranking it would drop to just over 10. this time it did not want to fire at all! Took quite a bit of turning over before it tried to fire at all and had to cycle the glow plugs a lot(It was also plugged in). Batteries then died again, seemed like they should have laster longer than they did. Could this still just be a dead battery? its starting to sound more like a FICM to me? Truck was turning over great, was as fast as it normally is but still no start! I have an SCT scanner and i'm not picking up any codes, could have just trouble reading it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have also been have a trouble with cold starts, if its below -5 won't start unless its plugged in. and its missing fairly bad, codes were injector 1-4 low but just had them replaced not 4 months ago so the more I look into things the more it seems the FICM was on its way out. Also the one day I drove a couple hrs and stopped the truck and would not fire again until the next morning then drove it home a couple hrs and fired right up again once I stopped it? that was about 3 weeks ago and seemed fine ever since other then the cold start.
 

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1. Get some new batteries. Both of them.
2. Install.
3. Change oil to something better.


I'm assuming you're using 15w-40 lost most people who don't know. Read the link in my sig for a metric ton of info on Rotella T5 oil and some good reports. Others use Rotella T6 and also have very good results. That should help a lot with the cold starts. If the cold starts don't clear up in a few hundred miles of driving on the new oil then try two bottles of Rev-X.

Let us know after you get the new batteries. It could also be a bad alternator that isn't charging the batteries while running. Could also be a blown fuse commonly called the "mega-fuse". It's normally a 150amp or bigger fuse between the alternator and the rest of the system. I'm not sure if it's on these trucks but I've seen a few of them go out on other vehicles and it can be a nightmare to diagnose.
 
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