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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking of stepping my game up from my '97 PSD w/ a ZF5 to a newer PSD.

Every 99-02 7.3 I've found optioned how I like is an automatic; school me on these transmissions.

I do tow quite often, the heaviest load being just under 10k.

The truck will be my daily driver.

Thanks.
 

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Are you running a chip or programmer? The 4r100 is pretty good stock put if you start adding power they can go fast more so with programmers. Cheapest upgrades for the 4r100 would be a vaulve body and a 6.0 tranny cooler. Gauges would be a good idea if you dont already have them. I belive 220* is boarder line 250* you toasted the tranny. Im sure others will have other info that is better then mine but that should get you started.
 

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just keep lookin u will find a 6 speed. 4r100's dont like power they tend to slip and slam. trust me i know. im glad i did the zf swap instead of a rebuild
 

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just keep lookin u will find a 6 speed. 4r100's dont like power they tend to slip and slam. trust me i know. im glad i did the zf swap instead of a rebuild
Is there a way to set up the 4r100 to be both auto and standared? I saw it on a pulling post on here set up in a dodge. just woundered if it was something that could be done with our fords or if it something partial to dodges
 

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I wouldn't worry with a 4R. External spin on filter, big trans cooler, and valve body would be first things to do. I do get tired of not being able to keep it in the power band I want and have that lack of power with an unlocked TC.
 

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Is there a way to set up the 4r100 to be both auto and standared? I saw it on a pulling post on here set up in a dodge. just woundered if it was something that could be done with our fords or if it something partial to dodges
There is...PCS controller. But you need to have custom tuning done, plus incorporate the buttons to shift. It's expensive, and you still have a weaker transmission.

If I could do it again, I would have a ZF6.
 

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stock 4r100= cow dung.
built 4r100=goood.


Class over.
 

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There is...PCS controller. But you need to have custom tuning done, plus incorporate the buttons to shift. It's expensive, and you still have a weaker transmission.

If I could do it again, I would have a ZF6.
Ah ok i was thinking if it was cheaper and possibly easier id do that but I still have my heart set on a Zf6. Being a poor college student though, it wont happen any time soon
 

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4r100's are tough enough for 450whp or less w/ a valve body and torque convertor upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OOOk. So I bought a 2002 yesterday with 177k miles.
Now the tranny talk really needs to begin:

If I do any upgrades at all they will be Beans stage one injectors, upgraded HPOP, upgraded IDM, an upgraded turbo to match the injectors, and a tuner to keep all that in check (I'll probably only get stock, economy, and towing tunes).
I will only upgrade those items as they fail, so all that will happen over time.

With those items in mind what do y'all think I need to do on my transmission? I do plan on doing the cooler upgrade, and a bigger transmission pan upgrade.
What about valve bodies? Which ones should I go with?
What else should I do?
What order would you do the transmission upgrades?

Thanks!!
 

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Whoa whoa whoa, hold up man.

Hpop forget about it. Your stock 17* is fine for stage 1's and even hybrids.

IF you upgrade the IDM, go w/ the swamps idm.. they are the ones w/ the 20-40whp/30-60wtq proven IDM

Your stock turbo is fine w/ stage 1 injectors

Valve body: BTS is THE best for the 7.3 in my opinion.

The last thing to a bullet proof (for 450whp or less...) stock tranny is a good TC. Grab a 6.0, RacerX, or BTS tc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ohh ok. I'm stepping up from my '97 so upgraded HPOP and turbo were just part of it.

Will these new valve bodies make it shift so firm it's uncomfortable to drive around anymore? This is my daily driver...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Also, what would you do first? Valve body and new pan (makes sense to do those two at the same time), or transmission cooler?
 

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hell, the stock turbo on the '97s can take quite a beating before needing an upgrade... these garrett turbos are great.

The upgraded valve body, in theory, will shift like normal at low throttle operations, but upon heavy throttle situations the shifts will tighten up. Also, dont forget to have your chip tuned for the VB or else it WILL be really rough.

personally I wouldn't dick around w/ the trans pan... jump right into a nice VB and a thick trans cooler and you'll be just fine.
 

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I actually put on the valve body after the tunes, and it fixed all my worries. I used John Woods for my VB. Pleasant guy to work with, and he definitely knows his stuff.

The tunes caused rough shifting, which is a common theme. I contacted John Woods on a friends suggestion, and all is right with the world. Less than an hour of work, 9 quarts of fluid, new filter (I figured why not since I was in there), and my truck shifts perfectly now.

I have zero experience with the other VB's, but a valve body change is a must.

Change the pan if you desire. I wouldn't mind one of them finned pans just for ****s and giggles. My stock cooler is still working fine for me, but ymmv.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What mod would y'all consider doing first?
The valve body or the cooler?
 

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If you don't tow or have overheating issues, VB.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I do tow, but haven't yet with this truck (picked it up less than a week ago).

The in dash temp gauge reads a constant temperature. So unless that's a "dummy" gauge then no over heating issues yet.
 

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I do tow, but haven't yet with this truck (picked it up less than a week ago).

The in dash temp gauge reads a constant temperature. So unless that's a "dummy" gauge then no over heating issues yet.
dash gauges are dummy gauges

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
 

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