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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently installed the sinister diesel oil filter cap and a glow shift oil temp gauge pod on my 6.0. Truck had run fine so far but when I took it for a test drive oil got up to about 230 while coolant sat around 190-205 range, but that was on back roads in 90+ degree weather. So next day I did the delta test and it actually made it worse. Coolant sat around 189 while oil again got to about 230. Highest I saw it get was 236 when flooring it while coolant was at 196 at that time. The strange thing is when I ran into heavy traffic and had to pretty much sit still for a while, my coolant went up to about 200 but my oil quickly fell to around 210 and stayed there till I picked up speed again.

My question is this: Could this be normal? Would it be safe to run this for a while till im in better shape financially? I could do it myself but I also could use 400 bucks for other important things. Not to mention Ive heard that with an egr delet these temps are normal as stated by several people here: EGR delete effecting EOT/ECT temps ????

Thanks all for any input.
 

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It certainly is not normal, and I wouldn't run it that way. You get less lubrication at those temps (remember that the EOT is the coolest oil temperature in the system) and besides, you could rupture the oil cooler.

I don't believe that an EGR delete will impact oil temps like that. Some people have seen it impact coolant temps, which then impact oil temps, but not the oil temp by itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It certainly is not normal, and I wouldn't run it that way. You get less lubrication at those temps (remember that the EOT is the coolest oil temperature in the system) and besides, you could rupture the oil cooler.

I don't believe that an EGR delete will impact oil temps like that. Some people have seen it impact coolant temps, which then impact oil temps, but not the oil temp by itself.
Ok thanks for the info, I figured as much but was hoping I wouldn't have to.
 

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Im not a 6.0 owner but my son had the same problem. On his the fan wasnt kicking on. Once he repaired that it was fine
 

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That is what some Techs found with an "improper" EGR delete, that the fan doesn't operate properly.

Clearly there are other ways a fan can fail, but some say that you must have an EGR valve plugged in for proper fan operation (doesn't have to be installed, just plugged in).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I know my fan works since I was towing my coworkers car the other day when it was 95 out. Just glad my oil cooler didnt rupture during that drive.
 

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230’ oil temps are nothing to worry about. I would worry if 250’ was maintained for a long time. Not normal but I would run it if you can’t correct it right away.
 

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Based on your post, I'm guessing you weren't monitoring ECT/EOT before? I'd pull data with another gauge as a sanity check.

-jokester
 
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I would add that I would confirm that crappy glow shift gauge was reporting back correct temps.
 

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If money and time is tight try a oil cooler backflush. It has been shown to help and buy people more time... DRAIN AND REFILL the system a bunch of times with regular tap water then back flush a few times and run either ford gold coolant or ELC until you have enough money to do the job right. Ford gold is not the coolant you want to use in the long run but its cheaper than ELC and the oil cooler/egr cooler will be changed out in the near future anyways so its a bandaid till you have the funds and time.

they sell backfluhs kits a little pricey but honestly they make it easy to not have to drive to three places for parts for a diy kit etc. I saved money buying the kit with the tools and stores close to me when I went through this. Backflushed the oil cooler ran it gentle for near 6 months till I had enough saved to do the job right But i was a 26yr old at the time so i wasn't the most expereinced with my 6.0l the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If money and time is tight try a oil cooler backflush. It has been shown to help and buy people more time... DRAIN AND REFILL the system a bunch of times with regular tap water then back flush a few times and run either ford gold coolant or ELC until you have enough money to do the job right. Ford gold is not the coolant you want to use in the long run but its cheaper than ELC and the oil cooler/egr cooler will be changed out in the near future anyways so its a bandaid till you have the funds and time.

they sell backfluhs kits a little pricey but honestly they make it easy to not have to drive to three places for parts for a diy kit etc. I saved money buying the kit with the tools and stores close to me when I went through this. Backflushed the oil cooler ran it gentle for near 6 months till I had enough saved to do the job right But i was a 26yr old at the time so i wasn't the most expereinced with my 6.0l the first time.
Ok I gotcha, gonna try flushing it first before I buy a back flush kit. Going to install that xdp coolant filter kit today to stop it from getting worse
 

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Ok I gotcha, gonna try flushing it first before I buy a back flush kit. Going to install that xdp coolant filter kit today to stop it from getting worse
In all honesty the bypass coolant filters are MEH... If you plan on keeping the truck for around $350 you can get the IPR full flow coolant filter that is a re-useable metal filter with a magnet. I wish I had gone that route right away vs the bypass kits. Also remember flushing may make it worse due to the coolant flow direction. It may clog the oil cooler even more if you don't backflush. The backflush pushes the crud backwards to hel[p unclog vs flushing may just clog it more etc. So if you flush without replacing the coolers a backflush is pretty much necessary to buy you more time or may even bring temps back to good for the long run etc.
 
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