Sounds like a hot no start. Need to be able to read icp and ipr % if ipr is screaming 84% chances are you have a high pressure oil leak. Has you stand pipes and dummy plugs been updated? Common to fail in the 04.5 and up. The newer models require the updated stand pipes and dummy plugs. Also the STC fitting is known to blow out and cause a no start. This also is required for updating to the new style. Another thing you said your ficm was 44.3 the volts should never drop below 45 volts. Normal readings are 45.5 to 48.0 volts. Once they start to drop below 45 volts you will start having issues. So look into replacing the ficm soon.
Back to the issue. If the issue happens when fully warm , you shut it off and then it won't start back up right away. But if you cool it off and then it will start. You prolly have a hot no start caused by a high pressure oil leak. Once the oil thickens due to cooling off then it can build enough pressure to fire. If you have updated stand pipes and dummy plugs already. Chances are you will need to air test the system to find the leak. You tube diesel tech ron. He has good videos on this test.
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I've ordered a new FICM Board, but I knew nothing about stand pipes and dummy plugs, so I will make this my next attempt a resolving this issue. Let me add one more variable to problem you might have thoughts on... This issue only started after I rebuilt the turbo due to broke unison ring and stuck veins! Is there anything I could have inadvertently done while pulling/reinstalling the turbo that might cause this issue. Thanks for your input Possum53, it is greatly appreciated!!
Run/Cranks Fine, Then just Dies..
I have a bone stock 2005 King Ranch 6.0 Crew Cab Dually 4WD that cranks and runs good, then after some time (30+/-) it just dies or if I shut it off it wont crank back. After it sits several minutes it fires back up. No check engine or codes. I replaced the cam sensor, run it with the ICP unplugged (it still died). I checked the FICM voltage... a sad 44.3 volts, but as mentioned, it cranks/runs fine, it just dies. My diesel knowledge is about a 6 out of 10, so I look to ya'll for help.
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Thanks for all you input and advice Possum53. I can't find the words for how excited I am to get the opportunity to pull the turbo on this POS again, but it could be worse I guess. I plan to start this repair in a day or two, so I will let you know the outcome. Thanks again Possum!!!!!!Omg i feel stupid for asking the main question. Was there work done recently? And you just answered the question. And the answer to your question is YES!!! I'm 90% certain you damaged the O ring on the drain tube or oil line going to the turbo. It must be replaced every time the turbo is removed or recommended it be replaced. Get you a new one and swap it out. I bet you will find the O ring is damaged. Good news is its a cheap fix plus you found another problem with your ficm your fixing. If not fixed the low volts will damage the injectors. But your labor is whats invested. So get after it. If that does not fix it and trust me its common to damage. Then you will need to air test.
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