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Discussion Starter #1
I'm kind of new to power stroke. Been an experience so far. Lol. I have a od problem I can not figure out. When I first start my truck, it runs rough. It like it's running out of time. But if I let it run for a minutes, shut it off, the start it back up, its smooth and like a new truck. I notice it bucks some times and shutters at about half throttle when I'm cruising along. I just replaced the ficm power supply to fix it and it runs better but still have the first rough start. It's also a long crank and it sounds like its is about to turn a couple times before it actually does. Any ideas?
 

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Sounds like a HPOP issue at cold start ( long crank ). Not enough oil pressure to fire the injectors. Possible you have an Internal leak ?
 

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I recommend reading this:
Would be good to get a monitor and post things like ICP, IPE, FICM voltage on KOEO, starting, and KOER. Another thing you can read if your monitor watches for it ICP demand and compare it to what the IC is. Should be close.

Rough start could be stiction, which the symptoms can be hidden with something like RevX or Archoil. There's other things, more expensive it could be, and those additives I mentioned are not cheap either, so best to troubleshoot to prevent throwing parts at it. Lesson I learned the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My oil pressures are fine. I did replace the ipr a month ago, and I ipc sensor last week. I was getting low voltage on the ficm, that's why I replaced the power supply. I get around 1200 psi while cranking, idle around 850. When I pulled the ipc, the oil was up to the sensor after sitting for almost a week. Maybe on the even side I may have a leak but looking at the pressure I doubt it. I'm using hot shot sticktion in the oil and their fuel treat ment. I cleaned the iat sensor and map sensor when I did the ficm. I did notice some random rough idle at a stop light today. Its usually great after about 3 starts. Just had me a bit stumped.
 

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What oil gauge is reading 0? THe low pressure gauge?

My low pressure gauge will read 0 and I get a low oil pressure light, but runs fine, when I am towing the RV with a a dead RV battery. DTR said something about the Low Pressure oil gauge is low on the priority list to turn on if there are voltage. problems. I chalked the low pressure light for me to be too much amperage going through the RV connector to run the breaks when that should come from the RV battery. Anyway, that only happens when the RV battery is low.

If the oil pressure is fine, the only thing I know you can check for is the bubble test. Other than that, a contribution test with Ford IDS software or Maybe Autoenginuity with the FOrd Packet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My oil pressure is fine, my guages are fine. But I will try the bubble thing and see what I find. It almost seems like it's running out of fuel, kinda sluggish and a bit out of time. Even at full throttle it seem sluggish.
 

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You can also try a fuel gauge. The injectors need about 45 PSI at all tomes, never dipping below. Less than that will kill injectors.
 

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Have you scanned for codes with a quality scan tool? Not all of the inexpensive scan tools read codes thoroughly.

Just as an FYI regarding the FICM - low voltage can also kill the logic board, so you might still have a FICM issue. best guess though is that it sounds like an injector. You also might have an issue with the ICP sensor connector which can get oil soaked and result in intermittent problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So, I scanned the truck, two of my scanners were fried but I finally found a good one. I wiped all the codes and started fresh. Since I've done some work, I figured this would be best. So far, I'm getting a contribution cylinder 7 and a bad glow plug cylinder 7. When I buzz tested it, it only buzzed or clicked on 7 two out of four cycles. So, im pretty sure its injector 7. The only other thing that concerns me is the fart noise from the exhaust. It does it periodically and rather rhythmically. It found like its boosting then it farts, then boosting and farts. Does it for like 3 or 4 minutes. Any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I dont think I have a leak. I dont really have symptoms of a leak. I get 1200+ psi when cranking and idle around 850. The truck even runs better hot then cold. It even starts better hot, no hesitation when it's hot. These problems are mainly when it's cold.
 

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Did you ever post a year for the truck (I assume it is a late 04 or later model year based on the ICP sensor information posted)? How about the ICP connector - did you check it to see if it is oil soaked?

What are your plans for injector #7?

You checked the MAP sensor, but did you check the Baro and EBP sensors? Have you monitored the VGT % Duty Cycle? Ever clean the turbo?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It is a 05. October of 4 build date. No oil on the pig tail for the icp. I did not check baron not ebp. Not that I know what that is. And I did check it and I dont remember seeing anything alarming. But I dont know what ranges I should be at. Although, I have suspected the turbo of sticking a few times. I plan to have the whole odd side replaced once I get some money. I may take the old injectors in to be rebuilt and put on the other side when they act up.
 

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Baro is the Barometric pressure sensor reading.

EBP is the Exhaust Back Pressure sensor reading.

Both of these play a role in turbo operation for your model year.

The EBP sensor and the sensor tube that connects to the exhaust manifold (drivers side) gets plugged up with soot frequently. Cleaning the tube and sensor would be a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, I checked the ebp and tune and they were indeed clogged beyond belief. I cleaned it with some carb cleaner and blew out the tube. Started up alot faster then normal. Usually its 10 to 20 seconds of cranking then a few putters before it starts. Still runs rough though. I think it's the injector. I took some screen shots of what live data I could pull from my bluetooth scanner. I'll attach them.
 

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Not sure what you are trying to show in the pics, but I do notice the red text - that would be a problem with rough idle
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's one thing I was showing. I didn't know if that would be an issue or not, and I dont know if that's normal range for barometric pressures.
 

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Baro would equal whatever your altitude would be, usually in InHg - so, 29.013
if that is what the barometric pressure is in your area, then the sensor is correct -- the MAP, and EBP sensors should agree with Baro with the key on engine off

I Have seen the EGR difference value vary quite a bit on my truck - likely a sticking EGR valve - it is not an "all the time thing" on mine, so I have not cleaned/replaced the valve yet
if you notice the difference value to be that high a lot, then you need to check the EGR valve
 
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