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First I'd like to say hi to everyone on this forum full of people who help each other. Quite refreshing actually.

A few weeks ago I went to my International dealer to pick up my blue spring kit ($35.00). While I was there I priced the ELC coolants of which they had quite a few. We used to run Rotella oil in our trucks, front end loaders, dozers and backhoes before I retired and we sold most of our equipment. So I was interested in the Rotella ELC since we had had such good luck with their products. I had not seen the Rotella ultra ELC before so asked about it. It seems one of the designs of it is for engines that run an EGR system. The northern part of Maine can be brutal in the winter and a lot of the guys with the DT365 were running 210 deg. thermostats in the winter and having the same problems we have with our 6.0s. I was told with the ultra they don,t have any problem. Its about $6-$8 more a gallon but it would be well worth it to me.

My 2005 XLT extended cab just turned 92,,000 with no problems yet. It had the coolant changed and flushed at about 50,000 with gold. Now after reading about all the problems with things clogging up after a flush (now after my truck has more miles on it ) I,m nervous about doing a flush since I hear of so many having problems after the flush. I bought the IPR high flow coolant filter and thought I may run through the winter with a lot of cleaning and try the flush and change in the spring with the Rotella ultra. Maybe just run distilled water for a flush then put the Rotella to it.

A couple of links to the ultra although many are probable already familiar with it.

Shell Rotella Ultra ELC Coolant from Shell Lubricants - OEM Off-Highway

Shell Rotella Ultra ELC nitrite free Coolant at Clear Choice Antifreeze

Ron
 

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You can continue to run the Ford Gold Coolant...BUT you have to maintain it properly. (yes, I know that is a big but..no jokes please).
The problem with the Ford Gold is that the chemistry changes rapidly given the environment in which is is being run...so you must keep on top of the maintenance of the fluid.
The newest Ford TSB outlining exactly what that means came out 5/04/2009.
Copied/pasted below for your reading enjoyment:

TSB 09-8-5
05/04/09
DIESEL COOLANT MAINTENANCE - SERVICE TIPS
FORD:
2003-2005 Excursion
2003-2008 E-350, E-450, E-550, F-Super Duty
ISSUE
This TSB is to provide additional information to supplement the Workshop Manual (WSM) and Owner Guide information on the importance of cooling system maintenance for diesel engine equipped vehicles. Some customers, using their trucks under special operating conditions, indicate that operating with insufficient coolant strength (antifreeze or anticorrosion) can result in significant engine damage. Insufficient coolant strength can result when:
^ Cooling system pressure and coolant is lost.
^ The coolant level is topped off using the incorrect coolant.
^ The coolant is mixed with hard water.
^ Coolant is mixed at the incorrect concentration.
^ Vehicles are operated under the special operating conditions as defined in the maintenance schedule (heavy commercial use that results in frequent or extensive idling, frequent low speed/rush hour traffic use; vehicles operated under special conditions such as: sustained high speed driving at maximum GVWR load, towing a trailer, using a slide in camper (F-Super Duty) or car top carrier (E-Series).
Proper cooling system maintenance is critical for maximum engine performance and efficiency on today's high technology diesel engines. It is essential that; the proper coolant is used, the coolant level is checked routinely, the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion property) is tested frequently and that the cooling system is flushed (with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner) at the proper intervals.
ACTION
Check and maintain the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion) and flush the cooling system using the recommended service procedures and frequencies detailed below.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Inspect the coolant color as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. If the coolant is not a clear or pale yellow color and has not had any coolant additive added, flush the cooling system with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and refill with a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Premium Gold Coolant and distilled water. No further action is required at this time. If the coolant is clear or pale yellow, proceed to Step 2.
2. Recommend measure coolant antifreeze strength. Measure the antifreeze strength following the recommended frequencies detailed in the chart below. A 50/50 mix provides protection to -34 °F (-36 °C), for operation below this level, refer to the applicable Owner Guide and WSM for specifications. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Recommend checking coolant anticorrosion strength. Check the anticorrosion strength (nitrite level) of the coolant using the Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test Strip Kit part number 328-000011-800-Rotunda (768-8632) option 2 or equivalent. Perform coolant anticorrosion strength at the frequencies recommended. (Figure 1)
NOTE FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE AS INDICATED CAN RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS.
4. Instructions for coolant testing:
a. Start with clean, dry hands and utensils.
NOTE DO NOT COLLECT FROM THE COOLANT RECOVERY OR OVERFLOW SYSTEM. COOLANT MUST BE BETWEEN 50 °F AND 130 °F (10 °C 54 °C) WHEN TESTED. ROOM TEMPERATURE IS PREFERRED.

b. Collect coolant sample from the radiator or pet****.
c. Remove one strip from the bottle. Do not touch the pads on the end of the strip. Discard strip if nitrite test pad has turned brown.
d. Dip strip in coolant sample for one second, remove, and shake strip briskly to remove excess liquid.
NOTE FOR BEST RESULTS FOLLOW TEST TIMES CAREFULLY. USE A STOPWATCH OR CLOCK WITH A SWEEP SECOND HAND.
e. Wait 45 seconds but no longer than 75 seconds after dipping strip to compare and record results in the following order:
(1) Compare FREEZEPOINT (end pad) to color chart on bottle and record result.
(2) Compare NITRITE (end pad closest to handle) test to color chart on bottle.
(3) The middle pad is for MOLYBDATE which is not a performance measurement used in determining maintenance requirements for these applications.
f. It is okay to estimate a value between color blocks, but if uncertain about the color match, pick the lower numbered block, for example if nitrite color is between F and E, use column E.
5. Coolant test results:
a. If the nitrite level exceeds 800 parts per million (PPM), no action is required, anticorrosion strength meets specification.
b. If the nitrite level is between 300 PPM and 800 PPM, anticorrosion strength is low. Add 32 fluid ounces of Motorcraft(R) Diesel Cooling System Additive.
c. If nitrite level is less than 300 PPM, anticorrosion strength is very low and cannot be restored refer to Step 6.
6. Flush the cooling system with Motorcraft(R) Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and refill with 50/50 mix of Motorcraft(R) Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. A 50/50 mix of the Motorcraft(R) Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water provides the proper cooling system protection and nitrite level for operating temperatures to -34 °F (-36 °C).
CAUTION DO NOT ADD MOTORCRAFT® DIESEL COOLING SYSTEM ADDITIVE WHEN REFILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM AFTER A COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH WITH MOTORCRAFT® ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IRON CLEANER. THIS MAY LEAD TO POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE DUE TO VERY HIGH NITRITE LEVEL CONCENTRATIONS.
7. Verify pressure relief cap integrity by using the WSM, Section 303-03.
8. Follow recommended coolant service intervals:
I couldn't copy/paste the tables associated with the above text....so I will post what was in those tables (as they pertain to the 6.0).

Figure 1:
Under "normal operating conditions":
Check the coolant strength every 6 months. The initial coolant should be replaced at 105,000 miles.... subsequent changes should be every 45,000 miles.
You have the option (which should be mandatory) of checking the coolant NITRITE strength every 15,000 miles.

Under "special operating conditions" :
Check the coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 Km) or 600 engine hours. Change coolant every 45,000 miles (72,000 Km) or 1800 engine hours.
Check coolant NITRITE strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 Km) or 600 engine hours.


The next graphic I could not copy/paste is just the Ford part numbers/descriptions of the products they refer to.

VC-8: Motorcraft Diesel Cooling System Additive
VC-9: Motorcraft Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner
VC-7-B: Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant with bittering agent
9C3Z-8101-A: Pressure Relief cap
328-00001: Rotunda 3-way HD Anti-freeze test strip kit
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Now, given all the BS you have to go through to properly maintain the Ford Gold, you can easily see why everyone runs away from it (me included). That said, the Rotella ELC that the International Dealer sold you is a much better choice.
In your instance, if you have the proper gauges on your truck to monitor the deltas, I would actually leave well enough alone and go through the BS steps to maintain that Ford Gold as best as you can for as long as you can. Once your deltas indicate an issue with the oil cooler, that would be the time to tackle the full flushing procedure and swapping in the Rotella ELC.
 

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In your instance, if you have the proper gauges on your truck to monitor the deltas, I would actually leave well enough alone and go through the BS steps to maintain that Ford Gold as best as you can for as long as you can. Once your deltas indicate an issue with the oil cooler, that would be the time to tackle the full flushing procedure and swapping in the Rotella ELC.
That's kind of where I am. I want to switch, and was ready to, but don't want to clog the cooler that is on there now If I do the chemical flush.

But, when the deltas start to rise, there's no reason not to.
 

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I also did the distilled water switch with good results. Couldn't get the Rotella Ultra concentrate, so went to Delo. Also have the IPR coolant filter, very pleased with it as well. Delta stays 3-5 degrees @ 65mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
NYC, Thanks for the info. I can tell you thats a lot more BS than I want to go through to run the Ford gold that I don't want to start with.
My thought was to after I get the IPR high coolant flow filter on and run it for a while with a lot of cleanings, to just flush the system with distilled water as Bismic did. No chemicals. Every thing is in good shape now so why wait until I have a problem. I,m running low deltas right now and hate to wait until something sh$ts the bed. Am I missing something?

I appreciate the replies.
 

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You're not missing anything. I did the flush/switch before installing the IPR filter, but that was just because they weren't available yet. Try the Fumoto F108N valves in the block drains, especially the one behind the starter. They'll make the process much easier.
 

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Don't misunderstand what I said.
I didn't say do nothing until it all goes to hell in a hand basket, far from it.
You are at a point with your existing coolant that you need to do something.
You said that you were going to install the IPR coolant filter on it and run it as is through the winter. After reading that, I thought that you should know what your plan should include (in the form of the proper testing and additives). Leaving the coolant in the engine would be ok through the winter IF the above maintenance was performed.
If your not going to maintain the coolant, get rid of it NOW, and don't wait for springtime. Chemical flush or not is up to you and what you feel is best for your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't misunderstand what I said.
I didn't say do nothing until it all goes to hell in a hand basket, far from it.
You are at a point with your existing coolant that you need to do something.
You said that you were going to install the IPR coolant filter on it and run it as is through the winter. After reading that, I thought that you should know what your plan should include (in the form of the proper testing and additives). Leaving the coolant in the engine would be ok through the winter IF the above maintenance was performed.
If your not going to maintain the coolant, get rid of it NOW, and don't wait for springtime. Chemical flush or not is up to you and what you feel is best for your truck.
I understand what you said and appreciate it. The part I misunderstood was.

Once your deltas indicate an issue with the oil cooler, that would be the time to tackle the full flushing procedure and swapping in the Rotella ELC.
It seems that by then it would be time for a new oil cooler. Or did I misunderstand this. I don't want to upset anyone and I do appreciate the advice.

Ron
 

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I understand what you said and appreciate it. The part I misunderstood was.



It seems that by then it would be time for a new oil cooler. Or did I misunderstand this. I don't want to upset anyone and I do appreciate the advice.

Ron
You are correct. At that point the oil cooler is toast and needs changing anyway so you can't hurt it any more.

The Rotella Ultra ELC is a relatively new formulation (about 2 years old now) and really the best coolant available on the market.
 

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It seems that by then it would be time for a new oil cooler. Or did I misunderstand this. I don't want to upset anyone and I do appreciate the advice.
As PGreenSVT pointed out already, yes, it would be time to swap out the oil cooler at that point (and replacing/deleting the egr cooler if so equipped).
Just when that would happen is anybodys guess. It could be a few months from now, or it could be years and years from now....No matter if you change over to the ELC or not. Simply changing the coolant does not guarantee it won't happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I welded both ends of the EGR cooler some time ago so I,m not to worried about that.

Just when that would happen is anybodys guess. It could be a few months from now, or it could be years and years from now....No matter if you change over to the ELC or not. Simply changing the coolant does not guarantee it won't happen.
I agree with you. I just want to see what the filter will do for me where everything is going good now. And from what I understand the ELC should be some help in that department. I fully expect to change it sooner or later. Its kind of a pain to change but not really that hard. Maybe I should just go ahead and do the chemical flushes with a reverse flush between each and at the end and see what happens.

Ron
 

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You are correct. At that point the oil cooler is toast and needs changing anyway so you can't hurt it any more.

The Rotella Ultra ELC is a relatively new formulation (about 2 years old now) and really the best coolant available on the market.
I'm glad to hear this about the Rotella Ultra ELC since I just bought a case of the concentrate so that I can switch out my coolant from the Rotella ELC when I have the "bulletproofing" done to my motor. When I heard that it was designed in mind to be run on diesels with EGR systems, I knew it was the right coolant for our motors.
 

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I switched to ultra elc in July when the studs were done. It's running very well with that in there. I wouldn't hesitate to do it .... That said I used it because I have warranty on my truck and the elc is gold like ford coolant. So that way I wouldn't have to fight some inspector over using the wrong coolant. It was a win win for me and worth the extra few bux I would recommend it

Todd
 

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I just recently did the swap to Rotella Ultra and have been very happy with it. When I did my flush I used Motorcraft VC-1 which is Ford's recomended cleaner for any time you do a coolant flush or swap. It seems like it did a good job cleaning the sediment out of the system. I also pushed 30 gallons of distilled water throught the system with the last 10 being with a heated flush machine. I did do a oil cooler swap a week later but that was also planned with the EGR delete. I dont know long term results but I am very happy how it turned out. I will keep everyone posted with the long term results of using the VC-1. My hope in using that was to prevent some of the problems that people have had with using the harder chemical flushes and my oil cooler was not plugged.
 

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The ultra coolant was formulated for the 2010 emissions big bore maxxforce engines 11L 13L and even the now extinct in the internationals 15l. Mainly the reasoning for it was the nitrate free helps lengthen the life when a engine uses a lot of aluminum. The radiator on the 15 is an All aluminum one the tanks and all one solid cast piece. The engines egr cooler where the coolant circulates around the core is aluminum. Too which is where the main issues come into play. These engine hold more heat than you cold even imagine. With the 190 stat the 15l still runs 210 degrees up a grade fan on full blast. The 550hp cal it will overheat so it is not available to the public. Which is why the 15 makes no sense when the 13 can go to 500. Being the 13 has about half aluminum it really be idiots from this coolant. It's very strong and burns my skin when it gets on me. I will say 3 years old 500,000mi these aluminum parts look brand spa kin new inside. I like te new ultra and agree nothing is superior!!!!


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