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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I'm about to replace all my rocker arms on the passener bank of cylinders. I'm kinda confused on some stuff tho, like setting valve lash, ect. Do I just put each assembly on and adjust valve lash to spec? Or do I have to make sure surtain cylinders are on Top dead center or not? Can somebody who's done this give me some advice? Thanks!
 

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subscribing cause I'm going to be doing my gaskets soon and might go ahead and replace push rods and some other things while I'm in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I did it. And it was pretty easy. Kinda straight forward. Valve cover off, fuel rail off, injectors out, then if you feel like it you can take the rocker box off (ford calls it the valve cover base) and at that point you have all the room you need for cab on work. I just cranked the motor with a remote start switch and waiting for surtain cylinders to be on top dead center, and then I'd replace that assembly. Then just repeat with the others. REPLACE ALL FUEL LINES YOU TAKE OFF. They will leak if you don't and it might cause a no start, or worse ruin bearings. Then when all that's done bleed air out of fuel system. And your good to go
 

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Do you have a parts list?, called ford as i am thinking mine has this issue, they say i need 2 complete assemblies ( one for each side) 8 fuel lines ( high pressure ones that go to injectors) is that all or more? Did yours sound like this....

6.4 tick-cackle-knock - YouTube


Thanks

Just asking but do you have the procedure steps?
 

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Hmm... Mine kinda sounds like that but very very minor and quieter compared to yours.. Kind makes me think though...
 

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I hear ya countryboy, doesn't always sound this loud...but the day I filmed seemed to be the loudest.....dunno..I have been breaking my head over this sound, but this morning I was driving and heard the poop sound in my intake ( or so it sounds) and After research and reading this thread it seems to be rocker arm and maybe broken pushrod in exhaust side....once I get the proceedure and parts list gonna open her up and have at her...need it up and running fast. Let me know if you find anything
 

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The 'poop' sounds your referring to or 'turbo fart' is normal, it happens because you are driving or have a build up of boost while driving, say 30 psi and then let off the gas quickly... It happens because the built up boost as no where to go since you let off the pedal so fast, with that being said that sound you here is the psi actually going back out the intake in the opposite direction.. Having nothing to do with internal components... It's a common thing, anyone that is tuned has experienced it... The only way to prevent this from happening is to have a blow off valve... But it's not necessary ... As you get used to your truck you will learn that as you ease off the pedal it won't do it... But if your on it, and some jerk off pulls out in from of you and you quickly let off and hit the brakes, then you will hear it... Stock truck will do it too but it's a lot more difficult to do
 

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ok thanks countryboy....haven't driven my truck alot yet and never noticed it in my other diesels....I did notice it more on a hot tune than a tow or stock one .....this damn tick-knock is driving me bloody insane, now I am starting to hear stuff thats normal ....lol
I am so worried that I am not even driving it anymore for fear of making it more major than it may be...
 

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Ya I hear ya there... Not sure you if your realize this but most people recommend removing the cab if your going to do that kind of work... You CAN do it with out but they say its a head ache... Just too tight of a fit... IF you end up messing with the push rods or valves, you might has well replace the head studs and get the heads resurfaced... Then you'll never have.. Well shouldnt have an issue putting the peddle down on a high tune.. If you replace push rods, I recommend getting river city diesel rods, they are beefier, stick with OEM head gaskets and get ARP head studs or elite H-11 head studs... You'll be good to go..
 

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If you are doing upgraded push rods you might as well get the upgraded valve springs as well right?
 

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really cab off for rockers and maybe broken push rod?? I understand for heads or up pipes etc.....I have seen it done many times on different forums with cab on but nobody has a write up ...thats why I want the proceedure, I was told ford states cab on too?

plus I dont have a lift :(
 

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Search for cab on head stud job.. I know there's a write up on powerstokenation as well.. And there's a diesel site that did a cab removal procedure/wright up, if you can't find it I can look tomorrow cause I printed it out at work... Also.. It CAN be done... It's just not as 'easy' as lifting the cab...
 

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My experience with 6.4 is if you have pushrod problems, you have Cam and lifter problems. Tapping noise is usually caused by rocker problems, and you can do those cab on easily. Just take out the fuel rail. If you do need to change one, take out all the rockers and make sure the buttons on the rockers are moving good (and still there). If you replace with Ford parts, you can get a rocker assembly cheaper than pairs of rockers. It'll have all 8 rockers and the support bar beneath it.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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thanks Hauser,
Hoping it is only rockers... I did look into the assembly at ford and it comes as a kit for each side (even-odd), which means if I do both sides I need 2 kits, 8 high pressure tubes (the ones from the rails to the injectors) and 16 guides (metal bridge between valve springs that the rocker hits..may not have used right term) to start, will I need the fuel pump to fuel rail lines also, cause read to change fuel lines-one time use....just not sure if they mean all of them or just the ones under valve cover?

p.s colton sorry for the tread highjack :thumb:
 
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