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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So in the previous post about a leaking pipe that went to the u-pipe on the turbos, after replacing it my truck went down for the count. While troubleshooting found that the high pressure turbo is dead and blown a bunch of oil. My issue is I'm not sure how long it's been down, as the initial post it had been leaking oil out of the bad gasket for a while.

What are people's experience replacing just one turbo? I'd hate to just replace the one to have the other die shortly after from being overworked for who knows how long. But we all know how you can throw parts at these vehicles all day long... And I'd love to make my rig nice and pretty under the hood, but one step at a time.

Anyways, I can afford to if needed. Just not sure if needed and not wanting to if not needed. The business could use the money towards buying a shipping container to store materials or tools that make me money, but then the running vehicle makes me money too.... so yeah...

Anyone had a bad experience with reman turbos?


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2008 Ford F-250 Harley Davidson 6.4 Dynamic Diesel stage 1 kit, ODD Intake, and way more. 馃挩
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The turbo is not dead. It works. It鈥檚 just leaking oil. Replace as a pair. As you will not separate the two.



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The reason your actuator is hard to move is sludge build up on the unison ring. From hydrocarbons mixing with the oil. Which creates sludge.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ah ok. I wasn't sure since they sell just one online. Thanks for the info. I'll look into buying a set then.

So, to make sure I got all the stuff I need, this would be my shopping list:

Turbos
Actuator
Gasket kit
new 6 point 10 MM socket
3/8" flex head wrench

I have the 15 mm deep socket, all the extensions I could need, and breaker bar, so I think that's it on shopping list unless there's something I'm missing?

For an extra $40 dollars I think I'm going to upgrade the actuator cooler too. I'll think about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wait, if it's just sludge on the actuator is that something I can just clean off after I take the old turbo's out, or is the current actuator done and need to be replaced? I'm just assuming the latter, but wouldn't know for sure.
 

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Sludge he is referencing is inside turbo not actuator. You do not have to replace actuator. You could even pull out turbo an rebuild yourself replacing seal.

If it was my truck...I would replace turbos as a set and replace actuator with new
non-coolant updated style.

Bottom line is time and money as always. How deep are your pockets and how far do you want to go? If its a time an money just repair the blown seal, save up and PLAN for a downtime to make repairs. DO NOT kick the can down the road to long so to speak make repairs in a reasonable time frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't have the down time to pull and rebuild, and basically put the truck in park until the repair is done. I don't want to chance it messing something else up - I'll fix it and fix it now, only reason I haven't ordered parts is I've been trying to research the parts I need in my spare time while working around using the family tahoe to pull a trailer for work instead of the f450 by itself.

For instance, now I'll want to look up the cost of the non-coolant actuators. I don't mind spending a little more for some reliability; for instance, the truck has had gold coolant in it all it's life and I was planning on doing a flush and change over to cat elc after a couple thousand miles (I literally just put in a filter), but I wouldn't be surprised if any silicate build up in the actuator has messed stuff up too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Think I found the actuator you're talking about. Around 500. Which, after seals and the reman turbos, would put me at 2k for parts, and probably 50 for the few hand tools I'll need to get the job done.

What are people's thoughts, $500 to get the point of failure out? Or save the 500 for other problems that will come up, like my leaking power steering?
 

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The actuator isn鈥檛 the failure. It鈥檚 the soot and sludge build up in your UNISON RING. That is inhibiting your vanes from moving easily, that being said your current actuator motor brushes are probably worn from the force that it鈥檚 using trying to push through them. If you can spring for it go ahead. Now keep in mind you鈥檒l have to loop your coolant lines for the old actuator if you do the electric one. If I were you. To get up and going. Just get a reman set with the factory actuator. They don鈥檛 fail often. I haven鈥檛 seen one fail yet mechanically only electrically which would be the same failure point as the new one. Save the $500 and get back to work.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry, weird wording, I meant get a point of failure, not the point of failure. Thanks for correcting.

Ok, thanks for the info. Most of the remans I've seen don't come with actuators, but I'll hunt around and order the stuff today so that it can out the door and headed my way.

If it comes down to it, from what I've seen you can change out the actuator later, correct? The instructions for the electric one made it sound like it could be changed out with the turbos still in.
 

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You can change it after. But get one now, yours is probably shot from having to work under load.


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