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so in the process of headgasket job, i found that all of my exhauust guides needed replaced. truck has 139xxx miles and guy at the machine shop said he hasnt seem em that bad in a while. any idea what would cause this? maybe overheating?
 

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Fuel it up again Dummy
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Could be a heat related issue, but more likely a lubrication issue. Not keeping clean lubrication will devastate valve guides, and the way these heads are layed out there is a small amount of deflection with the single rocker set up to both valves and if lubrication breaks down it will be much harder on the guides.
Odds are the valves need replacing as well, and if you don't replace them the extra clearance between valve stem and guide will speed up wearing out new guides!

If you are going to keep the truck for a long time I strongly recommend replacing all the exhaust valves, and quite possibly intakes too. May be a better choice to go with a set of rebuilt cylinder heads IMO.

If you had any questionable engine values like hpop pressures you may want to replace while your in there because there is a good possibility those components may have wear issues. At least have them looked at closely to make sure your not in it again any time soon.
Is there any sign of sludge from motor oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no sludge, and oil is changed religously every 5000 miles.
the one thing i can think of is that when the hg blew i was loaded pulling a hill. i looked down and temps were good, then the next thing i know coolant temps in the red. so that may be it
 

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If you know the service history on it from being new and it was good then heat is the next explanation, some of the wear is due to the design and the valves on a 6.0 are tiny in comparison to the 7.3 and long heavy hauls make lots of heat and can take it's toll on them. How do the intakes look, if they are in good condition then you may very well be right.
I was a machinest for 7 years and I mainly worked with the cylinder head work. Lubrication was the most common killer and usually the sludge would give away what condition the heads were before I even tore them down.
Extreme heat will tear up the valve stems and guides pretty quickly. I am assuming that the shop will magnaflux the heads and check for straightness. Myself it were my engine I would go through all the o-rings in the top end and replace them all, do the standpipes dummy plugs one peice stc oil cooler/ BP egr cooler ect to make sure you won't have to go back in again.
 

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:agree: great advice.

You just can't skimp out on these engines because it will bite you in the *** in the future. They are very expensive to fix and maintain properly but once they are running good and strong they are monsters.

I will take my bulletproof 6.0 over a cummins any day :thumb:



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Fuel it up again Dummy
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I want some of those International emblems mazsecond :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dad bought it new, i bought it from him 2 years ago. i know its been serviced good. intakes looked fine, magnaflux showed no cracks or anything. had standpipes/plugs STC right before i got it. got a o-ring kit fixing to install before shes put back together.
BTW, i'd like to have those emblems also haha
 

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so in the process of headgasket job, i found that all of my exhauust guides needed replaced. truck has 139xxx miles and guy at the machine shop said he hasnt seem em that bad in a while. any idea what would cause this? maybe overheating?
I have an 06 with 115,XXX and I am lightly burning oil on warm up. I have beat the crap out of it on the dyno and I assume that extreme EGTs have contributed to, if not caused, my problem. I am fully expecting the guides to be trash when I tear into it.

Are you monitoring EGTs?

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Discussion Starter #10
I have an 06 with 115,XXX and I am lightly burning oil on warm up. I have beat the crap out of it on the dyno and I assume that extreme EGTs have contributed to, if not caused, my problem. I am fully expecting the guides to be trash when I tear into it.

Are you monitoring EGTs?

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yes i am, as well as EOT and ECT
 

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Was the truck used for pulling a trailer on long hauls. These engines put out big power for their cid, compare it to the 7.3(444 cid)@ 275hp and the 6.0(365 cid)@ 325hp.

The valves are very small and the heat they have to endure for long periods of time can take their toll. Best thing you can do is run synthetic oil and change it more often when it is working hard. Coolant maintenance is also extremely important and a big no-no IMO is tuning it and pulling a heavy load, that heat is stressing all the exhaust valves and everything else for that matter. The 7.3 does not have the power the 6.0 does but it will chug along and its bulk works in its favor.

As far as repairing yours put in all new exhaust valves and springs on all the valves intakes too, and make sure the heads are flat. Studs will be a worth while investment since your in that far.
My truck has 75,000 miles on it now and it has been flawless, I have flushed cooling system 3 times now never using chemicals and just switched over to a ELC1 coolant and my oil cooler temps are still around 3-5 degrees at 70-75mph all day long. No stiction issues no nothing runs like a new truck still but; I have never tuned it and been big on maintenance, so I am a big believer in the 6.0 and love my truck.
Get yours together and don't skimp on repairing it, maintain it with synthetics on a 4-5K intervals dependant on how hard you use it and it will have your back..........
 

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Was the truck used for pulling a trailer on long hauls. These engines put out big power for their cid, compare it to the 7.3(444 cid)@ 275hp and the 6.0(365 cid)@ 325hp.

The valves are very small and the heat they have to endure for long periods of time can take their toll. Best thing you can do is run synthetic oil and change it more often when it is working hard. Coolant maintenance is also extremely important and a big no-no IMO is tuning it and pulling a heavy load, that heat is stressing all the exhaust valves and everything else for that matter. The 7.3 does not have the power the 6.0 does but it will chug along and its bulk works in its favor.

As far as repairing yours put in all new exhaust valves and springs on all the valves intakes too, and make sure the heads are flat. Studs will be a worth while investment since your in that far.
My truck has 75,000 miles on it now and it has been flawless, I have flushed cooling system 3 times now never using chemicals and just switched over to a ELC1 coolant and my oil cooler temps are still around 3-5 degrees at 70-75mph all day long. No stiction issues no nothing runs like a new truck still but; I have never tuned it and been big on maintenance, so I am a big believer in the 6.0 and love my truck.
Get yours together and don't skimp on repairing it, maintain it with synthetics on a 4-5K intervals dependant on how hard you use it and it will have your back..........
no long hauls. usually around 12k for no more than 3 hours at a time. hell, it doesnt see a trailer very often. but it did blow the hg loaded up a hill after about an hour on the road. machinist said intakes look fine, he is gunna make sure there flat too. ive been using john deere plus 50 II 15w-40 at every 5k since we got it in 2005
 

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I would change the type of oil you have been using to a straight 100% synthetic.

Shell Rotella 5W/40 synthetic is very popular with most 6.0 owners.
Mobile 1 has a very good reputation as well.
I have Delo 400LE 5W/40 in my truck now and like it well enough, I think it runs a bit quieter than the Rotella but the main reason I tried it was because Delo has always been known for good oil for diesel engines.

Any of those 3 would be recommend for your truck, and of coarse just as important as the oil are the filters with a 6.0 engine. MOTORCRAFT/RACOR only along with the factory filter cap ONLY. Can't stress that enough only only only! !! !

I see the John Deere oil you were using is a (mineral oil base) I will be honest with you: I know nothing about it, and hopefully someone will chime in who has knowledge of it's characteristics good and bad.

But I do know the newer synthetic oils have superior lubrication qualities don't break down like natural oils do or sludge up, less soot, less acid, higher temp service, longer life, better lubrication at all temps, it's a entire leap forward in oil technology.
The PowerStroke is extremely hard on oil and with the second gen HEUI system the hpop is pushing the oil pressure over 4,000 psi which is higher than ever for these engines and it is hell on the oil. A good oil is the only thing keeping it together and using the best oil is the only choice to make IMO.
 

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It is too late now but a Blackstone report would be nice to see on the JD oil after 5K. I run Rotella T-6 on 5K intervals and according to the analysis, it is still "good" when I drain it.

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Conventional oil changed religiously

no sludge, and oil is changed religously every 5000 miles.
the one thing i can think of is that when the hg blew i was loaded pulling a hill. i looked down and temps were good, then the next thing i know coolant temps in the red. so that may be it
AMSOIL from new would of avoided this completely. Simple as that!

Filter performance also has alot to do with wear. the OEM filters are 19 micron Nominal wich is great but just not the best available.

Looks like a simple case that the oil manufacture should pay for here.
Open and shut case! Guy did his oil changes and got a bum engine now...



Javier
 

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Good luck with that.
 

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AMSOIL from new would of avoided this completely. Simple as that!

Filter performance also has alot to do with wear. the OEM filters are 19 micron Nominal wich is great but just not the best available.

Looks like a simple case that the oil manufacture should pay for here.
Open and shut case! Guy did his oil changes and got a bum engine now...



Javier
You really have no idea what your talking about. His head gaskets didn't fail because of his oil choice :tard:
 

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AMSOIL from new would of avoided this completely. Simple as that!

Filter performance also has alot to do with wear. the OEM filters are 19 micron Nominal wich is great but just not the best available.

Looks like a simple case that the oil manufacture should pay for here.
Open and shut case! Guy did his oil changes and got a bum engine now...



Javier
What??? :tard:

Could you please explain to us how oil could cause a head gasket failure?


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Fuel it up again Dummy
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Anytime I see someone talking Amsoil my eyes rollback..................
 

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so in the process of headgasket job, i found that all of my exhauust guides needed replaced. truck has 139xxx miles and guy at the machine shop said he hasnt seem em that bad in a while. any idea what would cause this? maybe overheating?
LOL! I never said anything about gaskets! I will say EVANS Coolant would of eliminated the boiling that made the head wiggle around until the head gaskets blew!

Hey but who likes to buy expensive coolant when head gasket's are much cheaper:hehe:


Javier
 
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