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The engine is VERY heavy. I personally did not feel safe with the engine on a single stand....especially fully assembled.

Any chance you live in Socal....I'd say come and get the one I built.

You can always remove the engine and make a stand out of heavy lumber that will support the engine on the ground.

Joe
 

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That's what I did. Since I was only working on the top of the engine, I just blocked it up with some 6x6 blocks under the mounts. It was very stable, even pulling 230 lb./ft. on the final pull for the studs. I had a heavy duty stand available, but it was just easier for me to do it on the floor.
 

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It’s a 1,000lb motor, so a 2,000lb single post should not be an issue.

But there’s lots of options. A wood frame would work. I put together a twin post using 8020 extrusions and bolting it up.

After using this twin post though, I doubt I’ll ever use my single post again.
 

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I used an old front part of the frame engine cradle to bolt onto my engine stand and cut the middle of it out to remove the oil pan. It basically looks like the big money 2 post engine stands you see online. I'm in the same boat as you with my motor. I got RCD 6.4 pushrods, new lifters and KDD heads. I'm still trying to get my head situation straight with KDD. There's customer service department is awful at best. I would have went with UCF if I could do things over. At least there only 3 hours from me and when I can't get an answer to a question I can drive there and **tch. I might be making a trip to KDD in a week or so if they don't call or email me back to fix this.
 

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I used an old front part of the frame engine cradle to bolt onto my engine stand and cut the middle of it out to remove the oil pan. It basically looks like the big money 2 post engine stands you see online. I'm in the same boat as you with my motor. I got RCD 6.4 pushrods, new lifters and KDD heads. I'm still trying to get my head situation straight with KDD. There's customer service department is awful at best. I would have went with UCF if I could do things over. At least there only 3 hours from me and when I can't get an answer to a question I can drive there and **tch. I might be making a trip to KDD in a week or so if they don't call or email me back to fix this.
Dang! I hate to hear someone is having problems with these heads. What is the problem?

k
 

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I haven't even installed them yet. I'm trying to figure out why there is clearly 2 different castings used on my heads? This has been going on since the day after Thanksgiving Day. I have been quiet up until now, but I'm done with that BS. I have my own HVAC company and if I ran it like KDD I'd be out of business for dam sure.
 

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The dowel holes on the bottom surface are the "important" ones -- still would be nice to have matching castings
 

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Just throwing this out there, you guys have discussed it in the past.

With the commonized heads, Int/Ford talked about the injector hold-down area being reinforced to prevent cracking leading to the fuel in coolant issues. KDD has also mentioned its specialized casting to be reinforced in this area. The 18mm vs 20mm was to be one tell-tale sign. The other is the core plugs, the older 18mm castings having a 28mm core plug while the newer reinforced factory casting is 32mm I believe. I believe there are other differences, injector hold-downs, and rocker boxes. Plus there are factory 20mm service castings.

But the comment is all based on the factory castings, not the KDD special China castings so ??????
 

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It’s a 1,000lb motor, so a 2,000lb single post should not be an issue.

But there’s lots of options. A wood frame would work. I put together a twin post using 8020 extrusions and bolting it up.

After using this twin post though, I doubt I’ll ever use my single post again.
Got Any pics ?

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
 

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Eventually, I'll make a video.
 

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Some more pics.
 

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Two stands and material to weld them together (including the scrap bin finds at the metal supply) cost me 150.00 and some labor.

I had to reseal the bed plate, so I needed the ability to rotate the engine on the stand. Rotating the engine was super easy using a 4' cheater pipe over the standard turn handle supplied with the stand.

Worked out very well but I would change a few things if I had to make another.

Good Luck
Joe
 

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How much did it cost in parts vs buying say 2 1ton engine stands and welding them together ?

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
For me, not much. I use 8020 aluminum extrusions like an adult erector set, reusing the pieces over and over building fixtures, tables, whatever as I need, so I’d have to sit down and come up with what the cost would be. It would not be cheap.

If I was starting from scratch and wanted to flip the motor around spending the least amount of money, I’d buy two HF stands (on different days to use the discount). Two 1,000lb stands would work for a rotisserie. As I said earlier, if you take the front and rear covers off while the block is suspended by the crane, you can use the existing parts. If you want to rotate around the motor mounts, you have to buy or fabricate the mount plates or something similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I wanted to run this scenario by the forum..

If I plan to do a cab on HG job while replacing the branch tube and back 4 lifters. Does anyone foresee an issue carrying out the one motor mount trick to access the passenger side cylinder head with no transmission or transfer case attached? In all cases that I have seen or read about on the internet in reference to a cab on head gasket job, the transmission and transfer case are still attached when the individual removes the driver side motor mount.

Any thoughts? I don't want to hurt or crack anything.
 

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You already have the tranny out?

if you remove one motor mount -- it would seem to me at that point, would be almost easier to just pull the engine
and do the heads and the other stuff out of the truck
 
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