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My rig is a 2005 E450 6.0 PSD. I bought it new and it only has 16,852 miles on it. The engine has been 100% trouble free.

Being a van, I think the oil cooler is a bit of a job to remove. I did flush and fill my system a few years ago because my radiator was defective and was leaking.

I noticed my degas bottle has goo at the bottom if it, so I'm thinking of dumping the Ford Gold in favor of CAT ELC.
 

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Where is the oil cooler located on the 6.0?
Mine sits behind the condenser, but the OEM one (which I no longer have) sits under the oil transfer unit, which is under the OEM oil filter (which I also no longer have). A fine place for such a faulty design....:doh:
 

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Here ya go. Learn it, live it, love it. All you ever wanted to know and then some.

6.0L Bible Table of Contents
Juggs, just wondering where one could find that reference in a hard copy format, ie book, manual, etc? VG info, but printing it loses something in the translation, so I'd be happy to pay for it if it was reasonable. Know where it came from? Thanks!

Oh, and one other question I've had about the 6.0. I've heard when doing the stud kit it's always a good idea to have the heads checked at a machine shop as they are know to have cracking issues. Do you know if Ford (or anyone in the aftermarket) has released an updated version of these heads which addressed the issue, and beefed up whatever was causing them to crack in the 1st place? Seems like a faulty design issue that would hopefully be correctable?
 

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Juggs, just wondering where one could find that reference in a hard copy format, ie book, manual, etc? VG info, but printing it loses something in the translation, so I'd be happy to pay for it if it was reasonable. Know where it came from? Thanks!

Oh, and one other question I've had about the 6.0. I've heard when doing the stud kit it's always a good idea to have the heads checked at a machine shop as they are know to have cracking issues. Do you know if Ford (or anyone in the aftermarket) has released an updated version of these heads which addressed the issue, and beefed up whatever was causing them to crack in the 1st place? Seems like a faulty design issue that would hopefully be correctable?
The heads predominantly crack at the exhaust valve seats from too much fuel being injected even after the exhaust valves open. Standard off the shelf programmers are usually responsible since they don't offer customization to parameters like injection pulse width and timing that the SCT does. The only vendor that I am aware of that offers heads with hardened valve seats is BulletProof Diesel. Most cracks are superficial and don't cause loss of compression, but when you do need new heads, you might consider the upgraded ones.

ABSOLUTELY get your heads checked BEFORE getting them reinstalled. Don't forget to have your block verified as well. Overlooking this important part will virtually guarantee a repeat failure.
 

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Juggs, just wondering where one could find that reference in a hard copy format, ie book, manual, etc? VG info, but printing it loses something in the translation, so I'd be happy to pay for it if it was reasonable. Know where it came from?
2003.25 book

2004 book

2005 book

or you can use the numbers that you will see on the back cover and go buy them at Ford $$$$$
 

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Sorry for taking so long to get back Alha..I've only seen "The 6.0 Bible" on here digitally. I think the stuff NYC F-350 sent you is what you need.
 

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Yep, it sure was, those look a bit better as .pdf files. I may try printing them, though I see it was originally printed in 8/04, and didn't know if it would be missing any mid-late 05 production changes, if any important ones were done. I know that they sometimes do .5 releases mid year if they feel the changes warrant it. Thanks again for the info, it comes in very handy!
 

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Anybody have an update on how well the backflush has been holding up???? I am probably going to be doing that within a month or so.


Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #453
As noted several posts back, my temps were climbing again. After the reverse flush AND switch to ELC things have been fantastic. Pulling my 5er I run 11 degrees max. I would certainly recommend doing reverse flushes during ALL cooling system maintenance activities.
 

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once again i had to do the flush and once again oil temp drops from 220 to 186-192

this time i drive about 1500 miles before i had to do the flush maby next time over 2000 miles =)
so over two months since my last flush and it seems like i go over 2000 miles before i need to do it once again.

looks like the rust could be running out from my coolant system...

thet would be nice thing to happen...
 

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How many flushes now, Juza?
 

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Holy crap, 10?? How long does it take you to do a flush now that you're Really Experienced at doing them? Any helpful tricks you've come across in your struggles?
 

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Holy crap, 10?? How long does it take you to do a flush now that you're Really Experienced at doing them? Any helpful tricks you've come across in your struggles?
yes or more...

if i do a my own "quick flush" it takes 1/2 to 1 hour. i normaly do that during my lunch break at work.

i have learn along the way that it is same result if i do the quick way or the long way at this point.

i have always check how much of rust debrees i get out of the system and there isn't realy much difference of the amount of debrees between quick and long way.
so i dont bother to run water thru all day.

and if i compare the rust debrees what i have found from my coolant filer and my own "magnet trap" it goes like 3-5% the rust is in the filter when cut it open and over 95-97% in the magnet trap.

if i had knew that i gona have this kind of problems i would had spend 1 or even 5 days just to mechanical clean my block and head coolant passage ways when i did have the heads off...
 

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This Has been a really good thread, jam packed with info! Thanks to all who contributed. I just got my my stock 06 truck back from dealer who changed erg and oil coolers. I wish I had read all 46 pages here before taking the truck in to them. I went with dealer because they picked up half the cost due to very recent expiration of warranty. I now know it would have been beneficial to do thorough system flush before dropping off at shop for cooler changeouts. I wonder if there's anything I can do now to prevent/ensure rapid repeat clogging of oil cooler on coolant side. I am thinking that a thorough flush such as Karl has described including reverse flushes of oil cooler and heater core, adding a bypass filter, and switch to elc. I am also thinking that it might be worth it to replace the radiator assembly beas well while I am at it to eliminate an additional source of debris. If replacing radiator is a good idea, would it be better to do it before restore and VC9 or after? If I go with nitrate free ELC, should I still treat with ford VC9? If I understood correctly Karl, you used Restore for first cycle of flushing, then VC9 treatment for a second cycle, then reverse flushed oil cooler with garden hose adapters. I would welcome any advice, ideas? especially from nylyon and jugernaut, and juzatheman, or any others who have replaced one or more oil coolers due to overheating problems or high ect/eot deltas. I really don't want to have to turn around and spend big cash on repeat oil cooler replacement. History on my truck is I bought new in 4/06, mfg date is 12/05. I didn't get the memo from Ford saying that coolant change interval had been reduced from 105k to 50 mi. Predominant use has been low load highway speed running. Occasional use (less that 10 %) towing around 10k lbs. at highway speeds. First signs of problem occurred with 97 k miles, while towing on grades in heat of day. First wrench light came on, followed in minutes by check gauge alert (when gauges read normal), followed (30 seconds to 1 min.) by rapid spike of radiator temp. gauge. Keep in mind that with wrench light on I was watching gauges like hawk. This usually happened right after cresting a hill, while backing off on throttle, and I think often fan had shut off, as though the workload/grade had eased. After rapidly pulling over (and leaving engine idling)revealed nothing amiss under hood(except perhaps the faint smell of coolant, so faint I thought maybe I was thinking it into existence), I return to the cab after 2 or 3 minutes to find that gauges were returned to normal and check gauges alert alarm had cycled off. I thought possibly that it was all electronic computer malfunction since there was no loss of power, smoke, steam, nothing other than a sudden alarm after load/grade had eased, followed by sudden cycling back to normal within 2-3 minutes of idlingon shoulder. This happened approximately 5 times during a approx 250 mile trip. After arriving at our destination and disconnecting 5th wheel RV, we drove approximately 300 miles in mountains, with low loads, with no problems. Return trip home was marked by 4 or 5 repeat occurences of dash alerts and gauge spikes with rapid cycling back to normal after short time idling on shoulder. Throughout, there was no sign of lower coolant levels, or leakage anywhere. Just as matter of elimination, I stopped early in return route to buy a new Degas Cap, with no relief of problem. Towards end of trip check engine light came on. Independant well recommended shop diagnosed as bad ERG valve ERG cooler and oil cooler($2100). Dealer said valve was ok but both coolers plus head gaskets needed replacement. Ford corporate said replace coolers only and cross fingers head gaskets(not exactly but more or less) are ok ($1400 with warranty discount). Now I didn't necessarily buy into these explanations, I am just telling you what I was told by service writers. Truck has been back about two weeks now and I have been avoiding driving it until I finished this thread and associated research. Dealer told me to hook up my 5th wheel and go climb a grade. If there is no problem, then it must be fixed. If repeat gauge light show, then it must need head gaskets. Think I might flush it first, and put edge insight on before mountain climbing under load. (note sarcasm). If you are thinking, I am clueless, you are partially right. Until I had these problems with my 6.0, I had no idea what an ERG cooler was. On the other hand I have logged close to a million miles on my two 7.3's with a decent percentage of those miles hauling horses, and large toy haulers. I know a fair amount about basic diesel theory, and had such good fortune with my 7.3's, I mistakenly thought that all I needed to do was follow the maintenance schedules, take it easy under loads, keep it stock, and I would be fine. Live and learn, I guess it's time to bite the bullet and start the upgrades. Would welcome ideas/solutions.
 

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Discussion Starter #460
Wow, I think you wrote more in one post than I did in this entire thread :) My first suggestion to you is GET GAUGES. If you're pulling a 5th wheel you need to monitor your temps as the dash gauge isn't going to do it for you. I have a document in the tech area which describes a good through flush. Yes, I used Restore then VC-9. VC-9 is a chemical cleaner not an additive so it is coolant independent. What ever antifreeze you decide on, follow the recommendations for that coolant for maintenance. Even with my ELC, I think that I am going to flush it again in 2 years, just because. Above all, get gauges.
 
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