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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

This is my first post to the forum so I appreciate any help in advance!

I just bought a 1996 7.3L single cab that is completely stock and I plan to keep it that way. HOWEVER, I just noticed that the previous owner had installed a TS Performance chip under the dash. I contacted him and he gave me the mappings for the positions (which are completely stock).

I go most weeks and don't even use the truck. If at all, it is around town and to the dump. Rarely use it on the highway and when I do, putt along in the slow lane. The previous owner kept the switch in the "75hp" position for fuel economy. My goal with this truck is to extend the life of the motor as long as I possibly can. I really don't wan to go the route of gauges and all that, etc.

Here is my question, will it hurt it to keep it in the 75hp setting with no modifications? Should I remove the chip all together? If I keep it on the "stock" position, is that virtually the same as removing it?

THANKS!
 

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Well, your choice. Stock setting is about the same as removing it. With a stock engine and a TS chip the most horsepower you are adding is about 50 maybe 60hp. Honestly you will hurt the engine more by just putting around. Diesel engines need to work which makes heat which makes the engine work better. If you do decide to remove it you could sell it. If was me I would leave it in set on the 75 setting and drive it. I have modified a lot of stock engines for added power and economy and if done right does not shorten the life of the engine. But at the same time I've seen stock engines get tore up from someone that thinks they need to race from stop light to stop light and/or don't properly maintain it.
 

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you'll be perfectly fine with the generic tuning thats on the chip. the stock injectors are limited as to how much fuel they can flow so you basically can't hurt the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, your choice. Stock setting is about the same as removing it. With a stock engine and a TS chip the most horsepower you are adding is about 50 maybe 60hp. Honestly you will hurt the engine more by just putting around. Diesel engines need to work which makes heat which makes the engine work better. If you do decide to remove it you could sell it. If was me I would leave it in set on the 75 setting and drive it. I have modified a lot of stock engines for added power and economy and if done right does not shorten the life of the engine. But at the same time I've seen stock engines get tore up from someone that thinks they need to race from stop light to stop light and/or don't properly maintain it.
Thanks! Yeah I was mostly trying to make the point that I am not racing from stop light to stop light. I tow a bit and what not too. It gets used plenty because I love driving. I just go scared when I saw it and people were like you need to use gauges with a chip or you’re going to burn up your engine, etc. so you think set it to what he had it on, completely stock, and I shouldn’t need all the gauges and monitoring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you'll be perfectly fine with the generic tuning thats on the chip. the stock injectors are limited as to how much fuel they can flow so you basically can't hurt the motor.
So you’re thinking I don’t need all the transparency into temps and stuff with gauges. I will be fine at 75hp and “normal” driving? Won’t burn anything up, unexpectedly…
 

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You should be fine with that driving style. Note that IF you have any issues down the road with it not starting, running bad, etc., physically remove the chip (not just using the chip's "stock setting") when trying to diagnose things. Do this with the key NOWHERE near the ignition (batteries disconnected is even better). Cheers!
 
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Main ways to destroy these motors is by overheating and over revving(bad tuners). With those canned tunes you need to note the power and shifting patterns(if auto trans) and see what is best for you.

The "HP" rating for tuners and stuff is a bunch of BS to sell them. It's like selling a magic weight loss pill and reading the tiny text at the bottom of the infomercial that says "Use with proper diet." But rant over..

Personally I like to know what I have and custom tunes is the way to go but honestly you need to get rid of that pancake downpipe and do an intake if you want that motor to last longer.

If it weren't for the Tony Wildman tunes I installed years I feel my trans and motor would have much bigger issues. Good tunes and proper mods are a big step up for longevity over leaving it stock. However, a complete stock 7.3 with no tuner cannot damage itself unless you overheat it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Main ways to destroy these motors is by overheating and over revving(bad tuners). With those canned tunes you need to note the power and shifting patterns(if auto trans) and see what is best for you.

The "HP" rating for tuners and stuff is a bunch of BS to sell them. It's like selling a magic weight loss pill and reading the tiny text at the bottom of the infomercial that says "Use with proper diet." But rant over..

Personally I like to know what I have and custom tunes is the way to go but honestly you need to get rid of that pancake downpipe and do an intake if you want that motor to last longer.

If it weren't for the Tony Wildman tunes I installed years I feel my trans and motor would have much bigger issues. Good tunes and proper mods are a big step up for longevity over leaving it stock. However, a complete stock 7.3 with no tuner cannot damage itself unless you overheat it.
So, I am leaning towards setting it to the “75hp” setting and just driving the truck the way I do. I hear you on the “hp” settings basically being BS haha. I wouldn’t ever expect to see “140HP+” for instance Haha I would be interested in some recommendations that promote longevity though. Not so concerned with power increase…
 

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3" downpipe is a huge help. Let the exhaust flow and keep EGT's down. Intake pairs with the exhaust. Other than those 2 upgrades everything else is to fix a common issue or to support future mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@1Dieselman @CloverLeafFarm

Alright, I got the following from Isspro and am going to keep the tuner in there and run it at “75hp” position:
  • Pillar
  • Pyrometer (0-1600)
  • Boost Gauge (0-40)
  • Trans Temp (100-280)
Isspro part number: R60013

I think you’re right about the tuner ultimately helping and even if I don’t make any other modifications this should provide a better piece of mind that things are where they should be. What do you think?
 

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I think that will be fine. As suggested earlier I would consider exhaust and air intake. The stock air intake box usually does not seal well and often turns into a pile of junk. In the future if you decide you want a little more towing power do some turbo upgrades and you will be pleasantly surprised. Another thing I would strongly suggest especially if you live in a hot climate and tow a lot is install a bigger transmission cooler (if it has not been done) because just like the engine heat is the biggest killer for your transmission
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think that will be fine. As suggested earlier I would consider exhaust and air intake. The stock air intake box usually does not seal well and often turns into a pile of junk. In the future if you decide you want a little more towing power do some turbo upgrades and you will be pleasantly surprised. Another thing I would strongly suggest especially if you live in a hot climate and tow a lot is install a bigger transmission cooler (if it has not been done) because just like the engine heat is the biggest killer for your transmission
What would be your recommendation for air intake? S&B?
 

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Install the pyrometer probe pre-turbo (i.e., driver's side exhaust manifold) and not post-turbo (i.e., downpipe). Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Install the pyrometer probe pre-turbo (i.e., driver's side exhaust manifold) and not post-turbo (i.e., downpipe). Cheers!
It looks like most people (and instructions) are installing in these three locations. Does that sound consistent with what other folks would do? Some say T the MAP line for boost gauge but are seeing not as great performance. Definitely seems easier haha but pointless if it doesn't work well.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes but you can easily "T" in to the MAP line for a boost gauge.
Perfect. I would much rather tap into the MAP line than drill directly into the Y pipe. I obviously haven't received the kit yet from ISSPRO but I believe they are one of the ones who have instructions and hardware to drill directly into Y pipe. Do you think a connector like this would work with the ISSPRO Boost gauge? Looks like it would work with both a boost hose or a sensor. Not sure what the hardware will look like for the ISSPRO...

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That transmission port is not the port to install the temp sensor, although that is where almost everyone puts it. That port is actually the test port to check pump pressure.

The automatic transmissions have an internal temperature sensor from the factory, but the only way to read it correctly is through the OBD port.

As far as air filter kits, these are the 2 we recommend.


Or if you are looking for something more inexpensive and is cleanable.




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