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All in all the red tube "mod" is perfectly safe as long as you watch your boost pressures and dont let off the throttle to quickly at high boost levels because that causes turbo stall and thats a whole other story.
Please elaborate on this other story. Can turbo stall cause the engine to stall as well, sometimes when I'm stuck in the sand and let off I get the big turbo "whoosh-whop-whop-cooosshhh" and the engine will stall out. Fires right back up like nothing happened, but I know it can't be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Please elaborate on this other story. Can turbo stall cause the engine to stall as well, sometimes when I'm stuck in the sand and let off I get the big turbo "whoosh-whop-whop-cooosshhh" and the engine will stall out. Fires right back up like nothing happened, but I know it can't be good.
Well no its never good to have the engine stall out especially if its an automatic. No i cant forsee any reason the turbo stalling would cause the engine to stall maybe bog down suddenly but i dont push my turbos that hard so ive never had it happen. Someone else may shed light on it.
 

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Sorry for not getting this up yesterday...



I unplugged the line for this pic, but you can see where it's clean between the hard lines and the electrical plug.
 
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The1laf, you justnoulled the redtube from its original location and moved her there?
 

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Pulled* sorry
 

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The1laf, you justnoulled the redtube from its original location and moved her there?
Pulled* sorry
Correct, I just unplugged it from the wastegate and plugged it in there.

I must be suffering from a weak wastegate diaphragm spring as well, the best I can do is 25psi, I might have to wire it shut for a day so see what I can get..
 

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Correct, I just unplugged it from the wastegate and plugged it in there.

I must be suffering from a weak wastegate diaphragm spring as well, the best I can do is 25psi, I might have to wire it shut for a day so see what I can get..
25 psi is probably about right without a billet turbo wheel
 

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25 psi is probably about right without a billet turbo wheel
I thought they had been pushed to 35 psi before (not that I want to go that high, but it seems to stop @ 25 psi like its wastegate no matter what load I put on.)

.. And you don't need to rub it in.. I bought my Gen 1 WW the week the Gen 2 WW became available. :doh:
 

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I'm at 29-30 psi with ww2 and redtube connected. Thinking of doing a boostfooler till I can afford a 38r
 

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Aren't out motors supposed to defuel @ 24 psi? This is why I thought I'd try wiring the wastegate shut to see if I was defueling or not..
If you're past that you probably don't need a boost fooler..
 

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I'll leave her then, and my service engine light comes on as a soft code and goes away after a minute once I hit 22or so psi.
 

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Ok, that's the same thing Jody told me when I first installed my DP chip... Now where I think there is still a bit left unclear in this thread (might as well make it the all inclusive red-tube and waste gate interaction sticky) -

How does the modification to the waste gate of turning the arm to adjust the pressure fall into this... An explanation if that, and if it relates at all once the tube is unplugged would be awesome. Thanks

(In my application with stock wheel and dp tunes with red tube unplugged and stuck on a boot clamp stud I get up to 33 psi. I have a ww2 sitting in the garage that's going on in conjunction with my fuel upgrade project- should I leave as is or make any adjustment to the waste gate via the turning method most people talk about online)


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ok, that's the same thing Jody told me when I first installed my DP chip... Now where I think there is still a bit left unclear in this thread (might as well make it the all inclusive red-tube and waste gate interaction sticky) -

How does the modification to the waste gate of turning the arm to adjust the pressure fall into this... An explanation if that, and if it relates at all once the tube is unplugged would be awesome. Thanks

(In my application with stock wheel and dp tunes with red tube unplugged and stuck on a boot clamp stud I get up to 33 psi. I have a ww2 sitting in the garage that's going on in conjunction with my fuel upgrade project- should I leave as is or make any adjustment to the waste gate via the turning method most people talk about online)


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Its not really related itself to the red tube mod because rather than bypassing the wastegate actuator your modifying the length the rod has to travel in order to start activating the wastegate in the turbo.

Personally i have always been against adjusting the wastegate actuator rod because if you tighten it the wrong way you will be bleeding boost all the time. If you tighten it the right way then all your doing is forcing the actuator piston farther in the wastegate actuator housing and will eventually bottom it out.

The only way to CORRECTLY increase the actuating boost levels is aftermarket wastegates. Which to me is a huge waste of money. The turbo is designed to go a certain speed and provide a certain amount of boost at that speed, if you are then having to install a device that limits the amount of boost because the engine exceeds that limit then either you need a larger turbo or you need better pedal control. Only benefit i see to a wastegate is for compound turbos

Thats my personal opinion and im sure people will disagree.
 

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Turning the wastegate tighter increases the spring tension, which since you have the red tube blocked off will do very little 99% of the time. What that will do is make it so it will take more drive pressure to force the wastegate open as the spring will be holding it tighter.

33PSI on a stock turbo is not good for longevity though, the whole point of a wastegate is to limit boost to protect something. In our case it's to protect the turbo itself because a tuned 7.3 can go well into the danger zone. I wouldn't make a habit of going past 30PSI if you want that turbo to last more than a couple years.

big X2 on the banks wastegate and such being a waste of money.
 

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Would it not be smart to do this to my stock (not tuned) 7.3 with no boost gauge? Or just fine since it isn't tuned?

You're not going to hurt anything that I know of. I ran it plugged untuned on mine for about 4 years with no problems.
 
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