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Recommendations For F350

4808 Views 83 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  bismic
Hello all,

I recently received my Father's 2006 F350 4x4 four door longbed after his passing. He gifted me this truck in his will and I am looking for recommendations as to bullet proofing it (to a degree). The truck is bone stock and is the creampuff guys dream of finding. Bought new by my Dad in 2006 and has had the oil/filter changed religiously every 3000 miles since day one. He has all the receipts for the coolant flushes and PH tests (also done religiously) as well as various transmission, brake line, power steering flushes and refills. The truck has just turned 90k miles and 1996 hours on the engine.

I would like to know what I should be thinking of doing to keep this truck in the immaculate shape it is already in. I am aware of the EGR/Oil cooler coolant PH issues and am on the fence concerning an EGR delete/tuner or an upgraded cooler. Also considering changing out the what seems like tiny exhaust for a larger pipe from the turbo back. I rather doubt I will do a head stud replacement anytime soon as I have no means of lifting the cab to do so, and I am not sure I would want to pay the expense of having it done by a shop.

I was very impressed at the results of my friend who did a an EGR/Cat delete, exhaust upgrade and tuner on his 07 Ram 2500 Cummins. The power and acceleration is rediculous. That being said, I am not looking to increase boost and run the snot out of this truck. My Dad warned about not doing so, as the over torqued head studs from the factory and high boost sounds like a recipe for disaster. Just maybe let it breath a little better, increase the power a bit, most hopefully, get a few more MPG's out of it, and eliminate the EGR/Oil cooler failure.

So anyway, I would like to get the advice of the hive as to what the consensus says I should do to this truck considering my goals. And yes the boat and cabover Lance camper (barely visible under the pole barn) came with it. It is truly a blessing by Dad to me.

Thanks in advance.
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Well, we are talking about a bone stock truck. You're not going to produce the 1200 degree EGTs unless you're towing a 5th wheel camper up a mountain lol.
Hmmm.....My first run in the truck was having a very loaded cabover camper in the bed of the truck......and pulling a very loaded boat and trailer behind it.......over many mountains....between Oregon and Texas.......seems like knowing about letting your turbo cool down before coming to a stop and shutting your engine down....might have been good to know....like I mentioned at the very beginning of this post.
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The bearings don't hold oil from what TooManyToys said.
He could very well be correct. But I highly doubt it.
Hmmm.....My first run in the truck was having a very loaded cabover camper in the bed of the truck......and pulling a very loaded boat and trailer behind it.......over many mountains....between Oregon and Texas.......seems like knowing about letting your turbo cool down before coming to a stop and shutting your engine down....might have been good to know....like I mentioned at the very beginning of this post.
fair enough. But I don't think doing it once at 96k miles is going to hurt :ROFLMAO: . I mean, do it if you want, but not doing it isn't going to cause catastrophic failure, especially that early in its life.
He could very well be correct. But I highly doubt it.
Yeah he's kinda a wizard when it comes to this but that's fine
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Yeah that's interesting that a new guy shows up and isn't just questioning one of the more seasoned members but essentially saying he doesn't know what he is talking about. Like TMT said it's your truck so do it if you want but it isn't a necessary requirement.
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The marvels of modern oil...lol
Yeah that's interesting that a new guy shows up and isn't just questioning one of the more seasoned members but essentially saying he doesn't know what he is talking about. Like TMT said it's your truck so do it if you want but it isn't a necessary requirement.
Just trying to learn and explain why it doesn't make much sense to me 🤷‍♂️
Yeah that's interesting that a new guy shows up and isn't just questioning one of the more seasoned members but essentially saying he doesn't know what he is talking about.
The following is taken directly out of the INTERNATIONAL® VT 365 DIESEL ENGINE 2004-2006 Model Years EGES-295-2 Service manual. I will let you be the judge as to what you think it means.


The VGT increases power output by supplying
compressed air to the engine. The internal
components are oil and air cooled. Engine oil is
circulated through the housing, which acts as a
heat barrier between the “hot” turbine and the “cold”
compressor. Sleeve Bearings are lubricated by
engine oil. Oil is pumped directly from the oil filter
base, circulates to the VGT housing, and returns
to the sump through an oil drain in the VGT center
housing.

Lube oil moves through
passages in the crankcase to lubricate all internal
components and to supply the piston cooling tubes
and high pressure pump reservoir. The VGT and air
compressor use external oil lines.

The oil filter base directs filtered oil in four ways:
• One passage supplies filtered oil to the oil
temperature sensor, oil pressure sensor, oil
supply tube for the VGT, and oil supply for the air
compressor (optional).

Vanes mounted around the internal circumference
of the turbine housing are connected to a unison
ring. When the unison ring moves, all vanes move
to the same position. The unison ring moves, when
either side of the actuator piston receives pressurized
engine oil,

It seems pretty clear that the recommendation to allow one's turbo to cool off prior to shutting down the engine to prevent oil coking is solid advice, regardless of whether the oil sits there around the bearing or drains back into the pan after shutdown. Cutting off your engine (and thus your cooling system) while your turbo is excessively hot is clearly a bad idea. Installing an EGT gauge and taking steps to keep your turbo and your engine healthy is both simple and wise.

Good advice is just that.......and is generally better than bad advice....regardless of who is giving it to you.

Is this a hairy knuckled Diesel Forum? Or a bunch of delicate feelings Prius owners? Good grief.
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So where in all that does it tell me to idle my engine to let my turbo cool?
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So where in all that does it tell me to idle my engine to let my turbo cool?
The service manual clearly indicates that oil both lubricates and cools the turbo as well as articulates the variable vanes.

If you know anything about internal combustion engines you would know that removing lubrication and cooling from something that is excessively hot is not a good idea (What happens to oil on an excessively hot surface?....It ain't rocket science)....Thus the recommended cool down process....

Which is mentioned here:

And Here:

And Here:

And searching "cool down" on this site produces 480 hits on the subject (some relevant some not).
Read, comprehend and use the obvious good information......or not.

But don't listen to me, I am just a newbie that don't know sickum.
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The following is taken directly out of the INTERNATIONAL® VT 365 DIESEL ENGINE 2004-2006 Model Years EGES-295-2 Service manual. I will let you be the judge as to what you think it means.


The VGT increases power output by supplying
compressed air to the engine. The internal
components are oil and air cooled. Engine oil is
circulated through the housing, which acts as a
heat barrier between the “hot” turbine and the “cold”
compressor. Sleeve Bearings are lubricated by
engine oil. Oil is pumped directly from the oil filter
base, circulates to the VGT housing, and returns
to the sump through an oil drain in the VGT center
housing.

Lube oil moves through
passages in the crankcase to lubricate all internal
components and to supply the piston cooling tubes
and high pressure pump reservoir. The VGT and air
compressor use external oil lines.

The oil filter base directs filtered oil in four ways:
• One passage supplies filtered oil to the oil
temperature sensor, oil pressure sensor, oil
supply tube for the VGT, and oil supply for the air
compressor (optional).

Vanes mounted around the internal circumference
of the turbine housing are connected to a unison
ring. When the unison ring moves, all vanes move
to the same position. The unison ring moves, when
either side of the actuator piston receives pressurized
engine oil,

It seems pretty clear that the recommendation to allow one's turbo to cool off prior to shutting down the engine to prevent oil coking is solid advice, regardless of whether the oil sits there around the bearing or drains back into the pan after shutdown. Cutting off your engine (and thus your cooling system) while your turbo is excessively hot is clearly a bad idea. Installing an EGT gauge and taking steps to keep your turbo and your engine healthy is both simple and wise.

Good advice is just that.......and is generally better than bad advice....regardless of who is giving it to you.

Is this a hairy knuckled Diesel Forum? Or a bunch of delicate feelings Prius owners? Good grief.
By "I will let you be the judge", you meant to say "I have no clue and will drop manufacturer literature as an attempt to prove my point". Again, do it if you want to. But the point of the so called cooldown is to let EGTs cool down. That doesn't do anything except stress your EGR valve at idle.
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It is mentioned here:

And Here:

And Here:

And searching "cool down" on this site produces 480 hits on the subject (some relevant some not).
Read, comprehend and use the obvious good information......or not.

But don't listen to me, I am just a newbie that don't know sickum.
The first and the third one are by the same guy. The second one (I don't mean to discredit anyone) says it helps to not bake the oil in the bearings, as we have already established, there is none. I don't doubt that there are plenty of people saying to do it. But none of them explain why.
The first and the third one are by the same guy. The second one (I don't mean to discredit anyone) says it helps to not bake the oil in the bearings, as we have already established, there is none. I don't doubt that there are plenty of people saying to do it. But none of them explain why.
Brother, go out in your garage and put a film of oil on the top of a piece of steel (or better yet an old bearing).....Then hit it with your propane torch from the bottom side......Tell me what happens next, and what is left over once it cools down.....do it a dozen more times and describe the same. What did you find out?

I for one am going to install an EGT gauge in my truck regardless anyway, and once I have I will make sure my EGT Temp is down to an acceptable temperature before I shut my truck off. Why? Because it makes plain old good rational common sense for the perfectly reasonable good reasons given.

I'm done with this.
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Brother, go out in your garage and put a film of oil on the top of a piece of steel.....Then hit it with your propane torch from the bottom side......Tell me what happens next, and what is left over once it cools down.....do it a dozen more times and describe the same. What did you find out?

I for one am going to install an EGT gauge in my truck regardless, and once I have I will make sure my EGT Temp is down to an acceptable temperature before I shut my truck off. Why? Because it makes plain old good sense for the perfectly good reasons given.

I'm done with this.
That happens with every surface inside the engine. It's all hot. The turbo isn't getting to 900 degrees. I'm glad you reached a decision
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I did run into what TooManyToys was referring to.......I get now what he was driving at.
I am still going to let my turbo cool down after running it hard prior to shutting it down...because it makes perfectly good mechanical sense to do so, and there is no good reason not to.

"Early 6.0L Powerstroke trucks also suffer from a poor oil drain tube. The collection of oil in the turbocharger can result in the oil cooking. This has been the root cause of many all-out turbocharger failures in the 6.0L Powerstrokes. Ford gave ’06 and ’07 models an improved oil drain tube, resulting in drastically less turbo failures."
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Wow! Lots of back and forth on the turbo cool down! I agree with cooling down the EGT before turning the motor off although these guys tend to be much more informed than I. It's what I do. I am just here to recommend to you to do the blue spring upgrade, this will increase your fuel pressure and help your injectors to live longer. Just google it. Also, when these motors were produced, designed, whatever, the diesel fuel then had much more sulfur in it. Sulfur is a lubricant. Now diesel fuel has like 100 or 1000 times LESS sulfur in it so the lubricity is gone, also hard on the injectors. I suggest adding a fuel additive to every tank of fuel. I use Diesel Kleen (gray bottle) and have had good performance from it. I do believe that bio diesel is also an adequate alternative.
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Wow! Lots of back and forth on the turbo cool down! I agree with cooling down the EGT before turning the motor off although these guys tend to be much more informed than I. It's what I do. I am just here to recommend to you to do the blue spring upgrade, this will increase your fuel pressure and help your injectors to live longer. Just google it. Also, when these motors were produced, designed, whatever, the diesel fuel then had much more sulfur in it. Sulfur is a lubricant. Now diesel fuel has like 100 or 1000 times LESS sulfur in it so the lubricity is gone, also hard on the injectors. I suggest adding a fuel additive to every tank of fuel. I use Diesel Kleen (gray bottle) and have had good performance from it. I do believe that bio diesel is also an adequate alternative.
I second this. That Diesel Kleen is really sweet stuff.
Aeroscout Welcome to the Org! You will find the most Knowledgeable and Friendly Folks Here.
I too recently came by my Pops 05 F250 Supercab fX4 longbed. After a Ocean to Ocean 4200 mile trip it turned 30k about 100 miles from home.Here is some reading for you that will make much more familiar with your Truck

http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/docs/EF_456.pdf

http://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/2004 6.0L Updated Coffee Table Book.pdf

http://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-manuals/2005 6.0L Updated Coffee Table Book.pdf
The above information was shared with me Bismic. You will see his name quite often along Heavy, ZMANN Jokester Justin and many,many others. One of the key things to do is get a monitor so you will know what is going on with your Engine. Most here use Forscan it's downloadable from Playstore or Appstore. there is a Bluetooth Dongle ( i can not remember the brand) that is preferred by some , all in all about $30-40 and you are in the know. I am positive that others will chime in and share more expert advise. Enjoy your Truck, every time i turn the key i Think of Pop. Congrats, nice boat and Lance . Pictures we like pictures.
I have a 2002 f350 7.3 with 150,000 miles. I didn't know about the monitor. Would it be a good idea and does the 2002 have that option. I also use stynadine diffenitley when towing, but now using it more when not towing, 33' 5th wheel, trailer max weight 13,000 lbs
I did run into what TooManyToys was referring to.......I get now what he was driving at.
I am still going to let my turbo cool down after running it hard prior to shutting it down...because it makes perfectly good mechanical sense to do so, and there is no good reason not to.

"Early 6.0L Powerstroke trucks also suffer from a poor oil drain tube. The collection of oil in the turbocharger can result in the oil cooking. This has been the root cause of many all-out turbocharger failures in the 6.0L Powerstrokes. Ford gave ’06 and ’07 models an improved oil drain tube, resulting in drastically less turbo failures."
Ok here's old school from the 60's and up, running ANY engine hard and shutting it off immediately will cause issues. Been driving semi's for almost 50 years, I always let it cool off a couple of minutes after a long run to let things cool off. I change the oil regularly as required. I change the cooling system regularly as required. I've worn out 5 engines without a major mechanical failure. I don't not drive them like a dragster. I run them like it's coming out of my pocket which it is. Turbos fail along with all the other goodies but my average age for an engine is 1,000,000. Most have been CAT's but now I can't get them new anymore so I doubt that is going to happen anymore.
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