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Recommendations For F350

4811 Views 83 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  bismic
Hello all,

I recently received my Father's 2006 F350 4x4 four door longbed after his passing. He gifted me this truck in his will and I am looking for recommendations as to bullet proofing it (to a degree). The truck is bone stock and is the creampuff guys dream of finding. Bought new by my Dad in 2006 and has had the oil/filter changed religiously every 3000 miles since day one. He has all the receipts for the coolant flushes and PH tests (also done religiously) as well as various transmission, brake line, power steering flushes and refills. The truck has just turned 90k miles and 1996 hours on the engine.

I would like to know what I should be thinking of doing to keep this truck in the immaculate shape it is already in. I am aware of the EGR/Oil cooler coolant PH issues and am on the fence concerning an EGR delete/tuner or an upgraded cooler. Also considering changing out the what seems like tiny exhaust for a larger pipe from the turbo back. I rather doubt I will do a head stud replacement anytime soon as I have no means of lifting the cab to do so, and I am not sure I would want to pay the expense of having it done by a shop.

I was very impressed at the results of my friend who did a an EGR/Cat delete, exhaust upgrade and tuner on his 07 Ram 2500 Cummins. The power and acceleration is rediculous. That being said, I am not looking to increase boost and run the snot out of this truck. My Dad warned about not doing so, as the over torqued head studs from the factory and high boost sounds like a recipe for disaster. Just maybe let it breath a little better, increase the power a bit, most hopefully, get a few more MPG's out of it, and eliminate the EGR/Oil cooler failure.

So anyway, I would like to get the advice of the hive as to what the consensus says I should do to this truck considering my goals. And yes the boat and cabover Lance camper (barely visible under the pole barn) came with it. It is truly a blessing by Dad to me.

Thanks in advance.
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Reading through the threads it looks like we may have spent some dough that was not necessary. On the trip back to TX from OR (where my Dad lived) we were passing through Hurricane UT when I noticed the front brakes smoking....going uphill. We turned around and limped it back into town. I did a down and dirty brake job in the Napa parts parking lot (and didn't even get kilt by the hi-lift jack....those two 6x12x18 blocks of pine I threw in the boat sure came in handy). New calipers, rotors and pads on both front wheels. After tearing it apart I figure it was actually only the front right caliper that was sticking. Going across the desert towing the boat with the camper on we weren't going to take any chances. Both fronts got swapped out with Napa premium parts. Had I known ahead of time, just pumping/jabbing the brakes a few times may have cleared that up.

The truck clearly didn't get a whole bunch of miles driven on it and I have read that can cause the brake fluid to absorb moisture and cause rust inside the caliper...thus the sticking. Is this the issue we experienced?

Also wish I had known about the turbo cool down when making a stop. Been here only a few hours and have learned a lot......and seen stuff that causes me to have more questions.

I already own a Scangauge II, (used on a different vehicle....till after reading here) but it sounds like the Insight gizmo might be a dandy. (Figuring out post #51 in the "monitoring the 6.0" thread has got me scratching my head on how to set it up. AFAIK that device only allows 4 points of reference to be monitored at one time....seems like that is not enough of the critical info to be monitored.

Going to do more reading to try and keep the repetitive newb questions to a minimum.

Dad also told me about the VGT turbo.....and to stick my foot in it from time to time to keep the vanes running in their full range of motion and advised to continue using the Diesel Kleen Cetane boost.

I have no idea what a compounds are.
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Do all posts require moderator approval? Or Just edited ones? This is a test.

ETA: My above post is still in limbo....If I edit this one will it go into the pokey also? Another test.

ETA: 2 Edits

ETA: 3 Edits.....still testing.

ETA 4 Edits

ETA: 5 Edits

ETA: 6 Edits

ETA: 7 Edits

ETA: 8

Okay.....I have no idea why my last post ended up needing Moderator approval 15 hours ago. Can someone please let me know what the parameters are to avoid being censored?

ETA:......Reposting below.
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Reading through the threads it looks like we may have spent some dough that was not necessary. On the trip back to TX from OR (where my Dad lived) we were passing through Hurricane UT when I noticed the front brakes smoking....going uphill. We turned around and limped it back into town. I did a down and dirty brake job in the Napa parts parking lot (and didn't even get kilt by the hi-lift jack....those two 6x12x18 blocks of pine I threw in the boat sure came in handy). New calipers, rotors and pads on both front wheels. After tearing it apart I figure it was actually only the front right caliper that was sticking. Going across the desert towing the boat with the camper on we weren't going to take any chances. Both fronts got swapped out with Napa premium parts. Had I known ahead of time, just pumping/jabbing the brakes a few times may have cleared that up.

The truck clearly didn't get a whole bunch of miles driven on it and I have read that can cause the brake fluid to absorb moisture and cause rust inside the caliper...thus the sticking. Is this the issue we experienced?

Also wish I had known about the turbo cool down when making a stop. Been here only a few hours and have learned a lot......and seen stuff that causes me to have more questions.

I already own a Scangauge II, (used on a different vehicle....till after reading here) but it sounds like the Insight gizmo might be a dandy. (Figuring out post #51 in the "monitoring the 6.0" thread has got me scratching my head on how to set it up. AFAIK that device only allows 4 points of reference to be monitored at one time....seems like that is not enough of the critical info to be monitored.

Going to do more reading to try and keep the repetitive newb questions to a minimum.

Dad also told me about the VGT turbo.....and to stick my foot in it from time to time to keep the vanes running in their full range of motion and advised to continue using the Diesel Kleen Cetane boost.

I have no idea what a compounds are.
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The 6.0L turbo does not need a cooldown; it doesn't hold oil in the bearings like other designs.

IMO, Forscan for a cell phone would be a better monitoring tool.
I first learned of the cool down here, on this site, reading these forums. This seems to be in direct contradiction to other posts I have read..........???

Which dongle to use with Forscan?.......there are multitudes to choose from.
Forscan for reading codes, preferably on a laptop, torque pro for monitoring the engine. ELC coolant to keep the oil cooler from plugging (get rid of the Ford gold coolant asap imo).
If the egr goes, a bullet proof diesel cooler is a good choice.
When I did my 4" exhaust/delete, I found running a tune was "needed" to keep the power where it was at originally. It seemed to loose low end torque with the big exhaust (to me). These trucks are plenty fast in stock form.... So performance upgrades aren't really necessary IMO (they are fun though).

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As I just changed the coolant before our trip to TX, I am going to leave it be until time comes to change it again. Then going to do the flush procedure I read about here and change it to ELC.

This also rather solidifies leaving the truck stock for me. I don't want to change to a larger diameter exhaust (even though it is my understanding that this should allow the turbo to run cooler) then be chasing tunes to get it to run right.

Perhaps it is a matter of perspective, but one word I would not use to describe this truck would be fast. It will pull the heavily loaded camper and boat straight up a hill without a hint of struggling, but fast?...Not so much.
Could someone please let me know what the deal is with what would possibly make a post need moderator approval? In particular, the one above that I had to repost to get past being censored?

I may be new to this forum, but not to forums in general, and why my above post was deemed needing moderator approval escapes me.

What's up with that?
Turbo Cool Down.

From this post.....and this is not the only place I have seen this while perusing the forums. If I recall correctly it gets discussed quite a bit further on in the thread.


So now that you know you need to give your turbo a regular work out to keep it happy, give it a proper cool down as well. Just whipping into your parking place and shutting it down will lead to coking the bearings and again major turbo issues. Running a good synthetic oil will help here immensely because it handles heat so much better and resists coking. But always let your turbo have time to cool down. This is one of the reasons you need a Pyrometer (EGT gauge). Let the EGT come down to 350* before shutting your truck off. This only takes a couple of minutes, especially if you take it easy on it for the last couple minutes of your trip. If this is too much hassle for you get a turbo timer that will automatically delay shutdown when you turn off the key to allow the turbo to cool down.

So what is the answer here?
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I've never read anything about a turbo cooldown per se. I mean, it gets hot but it needs to be hot. Hence why they sell turbo blankets and such.
It has always been my understanding that heat is an enemy. High EGT temps are bad. (Bigger exhaust potentially uncorks the bottlenecked heat in a small restrictive exhaust, particularly on a turbo charged engine. All that expanding hot exhaust gas needs someplace to go....and the heat with it). They come about when running an engine hard (like towing a heavy load). Heat is also the reason for an intercooler, to cool the intake charge so your engine doesn't overheat. I would imagine turbo blankets are more about keeping the heat out of your engine bay than keeping your turbo hot.

Hot turbo, hot intake charge, hot engine bay, heat soaked engine.......That is the kind of stuff that breaks things.
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PS......searching the term "cool down" on this site produces 480 hits. Not all pertain to the 6.0, but there is plenty of info on the subject if one cares to look.
Just trying to separate the wheat from the chaff. It would appear to have some sound reasoning behind it that makes very good sense.
Ah, ok. The term in this instance is used to say let the turbo stop moving. Give it a second to not work. I wouldn't think you need to let the temperature drop because that doesn't accomplish anything.

The thing that is being accomplished is in bold text in post #26 above.....quoted directly from the linked "Things to consider about owning a 6.0L" Thread.
The intercooler is so you can get more of an efficient charge. If the heat from a turbo was so bad, and turbo blankets were to keep the heat from the engine bay, then all modern diesels would have them.
What is the intercooler doing brother? It is cooling the intake charge. It isn't so much a matter of efficiency as it is an issue of power. Cold air is more dense. More dense air can burn more fuel per intake charge. Burning more fuel produces more power and more heat. Heat is bad. Heat is the enemy of the internal combustion engine, diesel or gas, makes no difference.

Stock trucks, probably not too much of an issue. Start running big boost? You have to do something about the additional heat or you are going to break stuff. Particularly when your EGT temps are in the 4 digit range.

Notice item one on the following list:


The thing is that you aren't trying to cool the turbo (at least what he says in the post). You're trying to cool down the EGTs.
You are allowing the turbo to cool......as evidenced by watching the EGT temps come down.....for the desired result of not cooking the oil in your turbo's bearings.......pretty straight forward sound reasoning to me. YMMV.

What is the purpose of a turbo timer?

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Well, we are talking about a bone stock truck. You're not going to produce the 1200 degree EGTs unless you're towing a 5th wheel camper up a mountain lol.
Hmmm.....My first run in the truck was having a very loaded cabover camper in the bed of the truck......and pulling a very loaded boat and trailer behind it.......over many mountains....between Oregon and Texas.......seems like knowing about letting your turbo cool down before coming to a stop and shutting your engine down....might have been good to know....like I mentioned at the very beginning of this post.
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The bearings don't hold oil from what TooManyToys said.
He could very well be correct. But I highly doubt it.
Yeah that's interesting that a new guy shows up and isn't just questioning one of the more seasoned members but essentially saying he doesn't know what he is talking about.
The following is taken directly out of the INTERNATIONAL® VT 365 DIESEL ENGINE 2004-2006 Model Years EGES-295-2 Service manual. I will let you be the judge as to what you think it means.


The VGT increases power output by supplying
compressed air to the engine. The internal
components are oil and air cooled. Engine oil is
circulated through the housing, which acts as a
heat barrier between the “hot” turbine and the “cold”
compressor. Sleeve Bearings are lubricated by
engine oil. Oil is pumped directly from the oil filter
base, circulates to the VGT housing, and returns
to the sump through an oil drain in the VGT center
housing.

Lube oil moves through
passages in the crankcase to lubricate all internal
components and to supply the piston cooling tubes
and high pressure pump reservoir. The VGT and air
compressor use external oil lines.

The oil filter base directs filtered oil in four ways:
• One passage supplies filtered oil to the oil
temperature sensor, oil pressure sensor, oil
supply tube for the VGT, and oil supply for the air
compressor (optional).

Vanes mounted around the internal circumference
of the turbine housing are connected to a unison
ring. When the unison ring moves, all vanes move
to the same position. The unison ring moves, when
either side of the actuator piston receives pressurized
engine oil,

It seems pretty clear that the recommendation to allow one's turbo to cool off prior to shutting down the engine to prevent oil coking is solid advice, regardless of whether the oil sits there around the bearing or drains back into the pan after shutdown. Cutting off your engine (and thus your cooling system) while your turbo is excessively hot is clearly a bad idea. Installing an EGT gauge and taking steps to keep your turbo and your engine healthy is both simple and wise.

Good advice is just that.......and is generally better than bad advice....regardless of who is giving it to you.

Is this a hairy knuckled Diesel Forum? Or a bunch of delicate feelings Prius owners? Good grief.
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So where in all that does it tell me to idle my engine to let my turbo cool?
The service manual clearly indicates that oil both lubricates and cools the turbo as well as articulates the variable vanes.

If you know anything about internal combustion engines you would know that removing lubrication and cooling from something that is excessively hot is not a good idea (What happens to oil on an excessively hot surface?....It ain't rocket science)....Thus the recommended cool down process....

Which is mentioned here:

And Here:

And Here:

And searching "cool down" on this site produces 480 hits on the subject (some relevant some not).
Read, comprehend and use the obvious good information......or not.

But don't listen to me, I am just a newbie that don't know sickum.
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The first and the third one are by the same guy. The second one (I don't mean to discredit anyone) says it helps to not bake the oil in the bearings, as we have already established, there is none. I don't doubt that there are plenty of people saying to do it. But none of them explain why.
Brother, go out in your garage and put a film of oil on the top of a piece of steel (or better yet an old bearing).....Then hit it with your propane torch from the bottom side......Tell me what happens next, and what is left over once it cools down.....do it a dozen more times and describe the same. What did you find out?

I for one am going to install an EGT gauge in my truck regardless anyway, and once I have I will make sure my EGT Temp is down to an acceptable temperature before I shut my truck off. Why? Because it makes plain old good rational common sense for the perfectly reasonable good reasons given.

I'm done with this.
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