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Discussion Starter #1
I had the trans rebuilt with the upgraded Bronze syncros and new input shaft. Southbend CON OFE clutch, new hydraulics, new clutch lever (the one that wears out all the time) new clutch bushing.

everything feels tight, and ive tried bleeding it several times. trans fluid is AmsOil synthetic ATF.

if I am sitting at a stop light and try to pull the shifter in 2nd too quick, itll crunch. if i bang gears when im racing, I hear the syncros crunch. My foot is hammered down to the floor.


Only thing I can think of is the actual clutch assembly is so big and heavy the spin down time of the disc prevents smooth shifts. normal city driving i have to hold the shifter against the sycro "wall" for about a half second before it slips into gear. it seems to be a little smoother if i blip the throttle on upshifts.

just try rebleeding it again? I am at a loss.....everything is new...
 

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check the push rod bushing. and the clutch pedal bushings. could be that the clutch is not being fully engaged
 

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More likely the clutch is not fully disengaging. Does the truck "creep" at all in gear with the pedal mashed to the floor?

'Course, if everything feels tight, including the pedal, it's probably not that. It could just be what you describe, the clutch taking too much time to spin down to allow a quick shift. Is the new clutch bushing any kind of upgrade from the craptastic plastic original? Heim joint, or drill stop collar mod, anything like that? Just sitting at a standstill, in gear, as you let up on the clutch pedal, does it start to engage real close to the floor?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Its the originsl plastic bushing setup. pedal box bushings are good. Yes it does engage very low to the floor. The truck doesnt creep tho when in gear.
 

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Better yet. With the truck stopped and clutch pushed in, try slowly putting it into a gear it won't go in. Does the truck attempt to move ahead? If so, it's not fully disengaging.
 

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it took me three tries to get the clutch bled properly.....remove the slave and hold it with the push rod facing down. Open the bleeder on the top and slowly push the rod in until you get all the bubbles out. When you think you have all the bubbles out slowly push the rod up and close the bleed screw with the other hand. GTG after that. Like I said it took me three times to figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have the NAPA hydraulic setup. I will have to try somthing, because I am double clutching now.

Ill also measure slave cylinder shaft travel. I think factory spec is 11mm.
 
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