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Rebulding my Fuel Bowl, FPR and Drain Valve, as well as all short hoses above the valley. I've got some pretty bad leaks, to the point that one is dripping once every two seconds.

First problem: there is no spring in my FPR Filter Screen Canister. I'll have to order one...since the truck didnt have it for who knows how long, I guess a few more days wont hurt anything.

Second problem: I was...ahem... trying to re-install the connector to the Fuel Heater Element and the entire "wire" heating element came off. No damage, it just came off. How is this re-attached? Solder?

I read this thread and decided "while I'm in there..." and did the BB mod:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/7-3-mod-help/31197-obs-fpr-shim-gauge-install.html

Do I need a Fuel Pressure Gauge in order to use this mod, or can I run without a guage for a while?

Anyways, thanks in advance for any advice. Hopefully I'll finish it up tomorrow and do a leak check.
 

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Well as far as the fuel heater goes, just pull it out and be done with it. That thing always comes loose and grounds out against the case of the fuel bowl. I pulled mine out and never looked back.

As for the FPR shim (or BB mod as you said) you don't NEED to keep a gauge installed, but you will absolutely need to hook up a gauge to make sure your truck isn't putting out too much pressure or dropping too low on acceleration. However, I think many of us would say that if you're going to touch the fuel pressure you should keep a gauge on it full time so that you can monitor your mod. That's just my opinion.
 

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Rebulding my Fuel Bowl, FPR and Drain Valve, as well as all short hoses above the valley. I've got some pretty bad leaks, to the point that one is dripping once every two seconds.

First problem: there is no spring in my FPR Filter Screen Canister. I'll have to order one...since the truck didnt have it for who knows how long, I guess a few more days wont hurt anything.

Second problem: I was...ahem... trying to re-install the connector to the Fuel Heater Element and the entire "wire" heating element came off. No damage, it just came off. How is this re-attached? Solder?

I read this thread and decided "while I'm in there..." and did the BB mod:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/7-3-mod-help/31197-obs-fpr-shim-gauge-install.html

Do I need a Fuel Pressure Gauge in order to use this mod, or can I run without a guage for a while?

Anyways, thanks in advance for any advice. Hopefully I'll finish it up tomorrow and do a leak check.
What year is your truck? IIRC mine (1996) doesnt have that spring :dunno:


:woot:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Marine5811- thanks for the advice. I'll get a gauge asap
Ditched the heater. I'll switch it back in before I move to Montana in 3 years!

CELAYORK. the orings.com pdf instructions showed the '95s have the spring. Didnt pay attn to the '96s.

I finished it up. From start to finish: 7 hrs. Whew. Not easy by any means!

Thanks for the help!


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
 

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Marine5811- thanks for the advice. I'll get a gauge asap
Ditched the heater. I'll switch it back in before I move to Montana in 3 years!

CELAYORK. the orings.com pdf instructions showed the '95s have the spring. Didnt pay attn to the '96s.

I finished it up. From start to finish: 7 hrs. Whew. Not easy by any means!

Thanks for the help!


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
Your welcome! Oh, and I didn't even think to check where you lived :doh: I'm in California and forget that other people have seasons. I'm glad you got it all wrapped up!
 

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#1 - you dont need to buy a fuel pressure gauge - you measure the fuel pressure at the valve by the FPR. its the same valve as the air valve for you tires, so all you need to do it press a tire pressure gauge to it while it running.

#2 - if your saying your truck has NO spring in the FPR. then there is no need to do any BB shim mod because (A) typically that mod is done to help boost pressure caused by a weak spring, and you need a new one anyway (B) if you need to buy a FPR spring anyway, then either get the cali spec spring from the dealer, ($45), or the upgraded spring off ebay ($10), and you will have both replaced the spring and still bmped up your pressure another 10- 20 psi over what it should have been

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-0-7-3-DIE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1d311279&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Powers...Parts_Accessories&hash=item460463dc41&vxp=mtr

and in case nobody else told you - its also a good idea to remove the water in fuel sensor in the rear of the fuel bowl, and replace it with a brass plug. if you change the fuel filter normally, you dont need that sensor, and its not the oring in the sensor that leaks, its the sensor itself. this is also another VERY common area for fuel leaks. also - there is a weap hole under the fuel pump. when the pump goes bad fuel will begin to leak from that hole as well. lastly - the cali spec spring on my truck boosted my fuel pressure from 60 to 80 psi..

"California" Fuel Pressure Regulator (contains spring, valve spool & new brass plug)
(Ford) F6TZ-9K061-AA

From Tousley Ford Parts online: MSRP $36.67; Online Price $24.20

i keep coming back and adding to this... it was a good idea to toss the heater. its more trouble than its worth.. mine cost me $500 to have my pcm reflashed when it shorted. you probably wont NEED to replace it even it you head back to Montana. instead of having high pressure fuel lines, our fuel runs through the head on each side. so once the truck starts to get warm, that basically acts like a fuel heater.
 

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#1 - you dont need to buy a fuel pressure gauge - you measure the fuel pressure at the valve by the FPR. its the same valve as the air valve for you tires, so all you need to do it press a tire pressure gauge to it while it running.

#2 - if your saying your truck has NO spring in the FPR. then there is no need to do any BB shim mod because (A) typically that mod is done to help boost pressure caused by a weak spring, and you need a new one anyway (B) if you need to buy a FPR spring anyway, then either get the cali spec spring from the dealer, ($45), or the upgraded spring off ebay ($10), and you will have both replaced the spring and still bmped up your pressure another 10- 20 psi over what it should have been

6.0 & 7.3 DIESEL FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR SPRING | eBay

Ford Powerstroke Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring 7.3 FPR | eBay

and in case nobody else told you - its also a good idea to remove the water in fuel sensor in the rear of the fuel bowl, and replace it with a brass plug. if you change the fuel filter normally, you dont need that sensor, and its not the oring in the sensor that leaks, its the sensor itself. this is also another VERY common area for fuel leaks. also - there is a weap hole under the fuel pump. when the pump goes bad fuel will begin to leak from that hole as well. lastly - the cali spec spring on my truck boosted my fuel pressure from 60 to 80 psi..

"California" Fuel Pressure Regulator (contains spring, valve spool & new brass plug)
(Ford) F6TZ-9K061-AA

From Tousley Ford Parts online: MSRP $36.67; Online Price $24.20

i keep coming back and adding to this... it was a good idea to toss the heater. its more trouble than its worth.. mine cost me $500 to have my pcm reflashed when it shorted. you probably wont NEED to replace it even it you head back to Montana. instead of having high pressure fuel lines, our fuel runs through the head on each side. so once the truck starts to get warm, that basically acts like a fuel heater.
I think that the sensor you mention is not the water in fuel sensor, its the fuel restriction sensor aka vacuum sensor. If Im wrong, please correct me.

:icon_ford:
 

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water in fuel sensor - may also be called fuel restriction sensor if im correct. this is it.

That is the water in fuel sensor, and its different of the fuel restriction sensor, the one in the pic is not lacated in the rear of the bowl, its in the low part of the drivers side ot it. The fuel restriction sensor in early models is in the back and lower part of the bowl ,and in later models in the FPR.

:ford:

Edit the FUEL RESTRICTION SENSOR is OK what you said: "and replace it with a brass plug. if you change the fuel filter normally, you dont need that sensor, and its not the oring in the sensor that leaks, its the sensor itself. this is also another VERY common area for fuel leaks" I have a doubt if it has an o-ring tho, I think it hasnt ??
 

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on my 95, the water in fuel sensor is located on the outside, bottom rear of the fuel bowl. the wire connector, faces the fuel pump. and yes there is an oring around it

unless i am mistaken, it is the same on a 96, and the only dirrerence between the years is in the FPR.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your welcome! Oh, and I didn't even think to check where you lived :doh: I'm in California and forget that other people have seasons. I'm glad you got it all wrapped up!
LOL, I hear you! I'm going to need some time to cool off after rebuilding this fuel system. One side of me says NEVER AGAIN and the other side says IF IT LASTED THIS LONG...KEEP USING IT!

#1 - you dont need to buy a fuel pressure gauge - you measure the fuel pressure at the valve by the FPR. its the same valve as the air valve for you tires, so all you need to do it press a tire pressure gauge to it while it running.

#2 - if your saying your truck has NO spring in the FPR. then there is no need to do any BB shim mod because (A) typically that mod is done to help boost pressure caused by a weak spring, and you need a new one anyway (B) if you need to buy a FPR spring anyway, then either get the cali spec spring from the dealer, ($45), or the upgraded spring off ebay ($10), and you will have both replaced the spring and still bmped up your pressure another 10- 20 psi over what it should have been

6.0 & 7.3 DIESEL FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR SPRING | eBay

Ford Powerstroke Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring 7.3 FPR | eBay

and in case nobody else told you - its also a good idea to remove the water in fuel sensor in the rear of the fuel bowl, and replace it with a brass plug. if you change the fuel filter normally, you dont need that sensor, and its not the oring in the sensor that leaks, its the sensor itself. this is also another VERY common area for fuel leaks. also - there is a weap hole under the fuel pump. when the pump goes bad fuel will begin to leak from that hole as well. lastly - the cali spec spring on my truck boosted my fuel pressure from 60 to 80 psi..

"California" Fuel Pressure Regulator (contains spring, valve spool & new brass plug)
(Ford) F6TZ-9K061-AA

From Tousley Ford Parts online: MSRP $36.67; Online Price $24.20

i keep coming back and adding to this... it was a good idea to toss the heater. its more trouble than its worth.. mine cost me $500 to have my pcm reflashed when it shorted. you probably wont NEED to replace it even it you head back to Montana. instead of having high pressure fuel lines, our fuel runs through the head on each side. so once the truck starts to get warm, that basically acts like a fuel heater.
Copy all. Ive seen a lot of pics with that deleted, and often wondered why they didnt have it anymore. So I have a good idea of what I need to swap out. Thansk for the heads up. Consider it GONE! Plus, that wire was a PITA!

on my 95, the water in fuel sensor is located on the outside, bottom rear of the fuel bowl. the wire connector, faces the fuel pump. and yes there is an oring around it

unless i am mistaken, it is the same on a 96, and the only dirrerence between the years is in the FPR.
I think so.
 

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on my 95, the water in fuel sensor is located on the outside, bottom rear of the fuel bowl. the wire connector, faces the fuel pump. and yes there is an oring around it

unless i am mistaken, it is the same on a 96, and the only dirrerence between the years is in the FPR.
The third pic is an squematic of the early fuel canister, where the arrow is pointing the vaccum switch 95283 (aka fuel restriction sensor) in the bottom rear of the fuel bowl, and NO o-ring (its a 1/8" NPT) and also you can see in the diagram the other sensors on the drivers side of the bowl: the heather thermo external 9J274 and the sensor WATER prob (aka water in fuel sensor) 9S281, (BOTH with o-rings)
The first pic its also a early FC and you can see clearly the Vaccum switch in the bottom rear and the other sensor in the drivers side (bottom part of the pic).
The second pic is the late FC and you can see the tree sensors in the DRIVERS SIDE of the bowl.

You are right that the FPR are different in both cases: early-late bowls.

I hope this helps you. :please:
 

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