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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, not sure if this is in the right topic or not. My pop has an 07 6.0 350 that quit running. The shop quoted my him 19 Grand to fix the problem said it was a failed lifter. I told him to tow it here about 2 hours away and we would tear the motor down in my garage. Never done it before, any advice?
 

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Take a look at a Long Block from Asheville Engines or Kill Devil Diesel. You'll get a quality product and spend a lot less money.

k
 

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Take detailed pictures of harness locations, make notes and label connectors
Try to keep bolts separated into groups, so you know where they came from

Cab off(if you have a lift), else out the front for the engine
Blow out(air hose) the bolt holes before re-assembly
The blue towels on the roll work well -- keep things as clean as is practical
PB blaster or FreeAll work wonders on rusty bolts

Did the shop take the valve covers off? or find a lifter roller?
you can measure lifter travel with a dial indicator -- sometimes just looking can see the difference in travel
gotta pull the valve covers and turn the engine over

A little bit of testing goes a long way before tearing right in or throwing parts at problem
I would not just take their word at a diagnosis
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The mechanic said he took the valve covers off and turned the crankshaft but will definitely verify. The only thing I know is it threw an ICP code, they said it ran fine towing about 100 miles, then shut off at a gas station and would not start, they had it towed to the diesel mechanic.
 

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The mechanic said he took the valve covers off and turned the crankshaft but will definitely verify. The only thing I know is it threw an ICP code, they said it ran fine towing about 100 miles, then shut off at a gas station and would not start, they had it towed to the diesel mechanic.
Definitely verify. Would hate to tear it all down just to realize it's an IPR wiring issue, an HPO leak, or something else you can fix quite easily...

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Take a look at a Long Block from Asheville Engines or Kill Devil Diesel. You'll get a quality product and spend a lot less money.

Already looked at Ashville, prices are reasonable and it's good to know they have a reputation. Will look into Kill Devil Diesel, thanks K
 

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Take a look at a Long Block from Asheville Engines or Kill Devil Diesel. You'll get a quality product and spend a lot less money.

Already looked at Ashville, prices are reasonable and it's good to know they have a reputation. Will look into Kill Devil Diesel, thanks K

I went with Asheville Performance 20 and stage 2 cam. I've got over 115K miles with ZERO problems. If I had it to do over, I would do the same thing.

k
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The mechanic said he took the valve covers off and turned the crankshaft but will definitely verify. The only thing I know is it threw an ICP code, they said it ran fine towing about 100 miles, then shut off at a gas station and would not start, they had it towed to the diesel mechanic.
Definitely verify. Would hate to tear it all down just to realize it's an IPR wiring issue, an HPO leak, or something else you can fix quite easily...

-jokester
I agree will look through all of that first for sure. Would be great if it's just the IPR or HPOP. I've read that lifter failures are pretty rare, is that accurate?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Take detailed pictures of harness locations, make notes and label connectors
Try to keep bolts separated into groups, so you know where they came from

Cab off(if you have a lift), else out the front for the engine
Blow out(air hose) the bolt holes before re-assembly
The blue towels on the roll work well -- keep things as clean as is practical
PB blaster or FreeAll work wonders on rusty bolts

Did the shop take the valve covers off? or find a lifter roller?
you can measure lifter travel with a dial indicator -- sometimes just looking can see the difference in travel
gotta pull the valve covers and turn the engine over

A little bit of testing goes a long way before tearing right in or throwing parts at problem
I would not just take their word at a diagnosis
I appreciate the advice, will be pulling the motor out the front unfortunately. Harbor Freight has a great deal on a 1 ton shop crane for black Friday, do you think that would be adequate. Also do I need to manufacture/buy some sort of brackets to lift the engine out or or are there lift points already in place?
 

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I appreciate the advice, will be pulling the motor out the front unfortunately. Harbor Freight has a great deal on a 1 ton shop crane for black Friday, do you think that would be adequate. Also do I need to manufacture/buy some sort of brackets to lift the engine out or or are there lift points already in place?
Pretty sure the 6.0 weighs in close to a ton depending on what's unbolted and removed before you hook 'er up. I'd be REAL careful with a Harbor Freight picker rated at 1 ton.

k
 

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Ford specs lists the 6.0 as 966 pounds

The HF 2000 pound stand would work as well as the 2000 pound lift
their load leveler works pretty good also
 

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I shipped mine from CA to TN @ Swamps. I think they went through a new owner.....They rebuilt mine for ~$12k. I already had about $10k of aftermarket stuff in the engine. They used all my few year old stuff (billet HPOP, 195cc injectors, turbo, custom FICM, BP oil cooler/remote full pass filter/super micro remote filter/water pump etc) They did a great job, ceramic coated Mahle pistons, Cam, fully ported intake, ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and up-pipes, etc, etc. Sounds like some good places out there.
 
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