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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 4.5" Icon on the truck. i think the blocks were the 5" flat blocks. its hard to see in the picture, but if you look close you can see how much it shifted towards the rear. I do have the carrier bearing spacer kit, but havent messed with that yet. Do i need some sort of shim for the rear block. ive been looking around for a while I just want to make sure i get the right thing before i buy.

 

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it will change if you use a ten degree angled block. It depends how much it bother you, if you want to fix it. Is the truck aligned and finished? Who installed the kit?
 

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The rear axle positioning on these trucks already places it slightly back in the wheel well. Because of the angle of the leaf springs this gets worse as you lift them. Some componanies offer block/upper u-bolt plate setups that can be used to position the axle a bit forward to counteract this. Also, Carli's full leaf replacements are built with the centerpin moved forward to put the axle closer to the center when lifter.:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it will change if you use a ten degree angled block. It depends how much it bother you, if you want to fix it. Is the truck aligned and finished? Who installed the kit?
It kind of bothers me. I didnt want to cross a ditch or something and hit my fender or something weird like that. I havent got an alignment yet. ICONs instructions states that an alignment isnt needed with the lift i used. something about it doesnt change the caster or camber or something. Im still going to take it when i get the chance. I did the install. It was a breeze.

my IFS f150 was the hardest thing ive ever done and we just eye balled it like the oldschoolers used to. No problems after 25kmiles...... not going to do this with this truck..

as far as the 10degree block are there any manufacturers to look at more then others.
 

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My truck looks like that with just a leveling kit, the rear axles are off center of the wheel opening stock. The larger tires just make it more noticeable.
 

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factory specs have the wheel sitting back in the wheel well. I noticed it on my F350 more so than 250s. Depending on howmuch it bothers you, Carli has a full spring pack for the rear that moves the axle forward. I was worried like you bout my tires rubbing the fender,with the new spring pack at full bump and 37s no rubbing whatsoever
 

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The reason we moved the center pin forward was exactly that, Sages Toyo's made contact with his rear fender so we HAD to address it. I wouldn't leave the truck the way it is... As for Icon's alignment, so long as they drop the radius arm back to exactly the factory angle, the caster won't need an adjustment and the toe won't unless you altered the tie-rod for any reason. Either way, the drag link will need to be lengthened to re-center the steering wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The reason we moved the center pin forward was exactly that, Sages Toyo's made contact with his rear fender so we HAD to address it. I wouldn't leave the truck the way it is... As for Icon's alignment, so long as they drop the radius arm back to exactly the factory angle, the caster won't need an adjustment and the toe won't unless you altered the tie-rod for any reason. Either way, the drag link will need to be lengthened to re-center the steering wheel.
It did drop the radius arms back. Appears to be pretty darn close to what it looked like before. anyway i got all the other things figured out.

As far as the rear goes to move the axle back to center, whats the cost in doing so. you can PM if you want.
 

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i was looking at an offset block when I had the same issue with my Deaver springs

I never bought it because I went to a different brand spring all together so I am not sure if it's a viable option ?
lifted blocks

pmf also sells blocks and top plates that can move the axle front or back

 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks. Id like to do the leaf packs, but a little pricey right now. I may try this route for now.
 

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If you get welded rear blocks you can just redrill the center pin hole, and redrill the upper spring plate to match, or get a piece of 1/2" plat steel 3" wide and make an offset plate for the block, they are common for jeeps, but the same principle works for any leaf spring.
 
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