[TXSailor]

I have a model 2451 Mk2-XXF Roadmaster Active Suspension kit for the Excursion that I pulled off my 2002 EX for sale. This is not the latest version/design of these units but the type that mounts under the Axle U-bolt plate on the rear axle as opposed to the new units that mount "around" the axle. With this one you do have to remover the Axle U-bolt nuts to mount the unit. PM me for details.

These things do work well on the EX taking care of much of the "wandering" due to rear axle steer (especially when towing), raise the rear end about 1 to 1 1/2 inches to get rid of squat, and act as traction bars to boot.

I just replaced these with the newer version (early Father's day present).

D

 

[beamer]

Did you ever sell this?

What price are you looking for?

I am figuring this will work on my 00 EX...



Thanks,
Mike

 

[TXSailor]

Yes. A guy up near the Great Lakes (or maybe California - I don't remember) sent me a PM a day or two later.

I do recommend the RAS product for those looking to "raise" the rear and soften the ride on the EX. It works.

Makes towing my Airstream much, much better as they like a "soft" nose to keep the aluminum skin from separating from the frame on the front end. A common problem with the AS.

D

 

[beamer]

Thanks !

I am looking to go with the RAS and also the anti-roll bar for the back to stabilize my ride and towing ability.

Did the RAS raise the rear end? Or level it?

My truck sits pretty good and level now and is 4X4.


Thanks again,
Mike

 

[TXSailor]

Once I changed the front springs to V codes (I have the Diesel), the EX sat level. It dropped about 1 1/2 in when I put the Airstream on the hitch. To get it back level again, i had to crank up the Spring Bars and that transferred too much weight to the front end.

When I added the RAS, it raised the back end up 1 1/2 in so when I dropped the trailer on the hitch and adjusted the spring bars, the distribution was much better. Without the trailer hooked up, the EX sits slightly higher in the back and looks much, much better.

Of all the mods I did, the V-codes, Rear Sway bar, and RAS were the most beneficial for towing. Those eliminated 99% of the "REAR END STEERING" or "wander". I did tighten my steering box just a bit - about 1 turn if I remember correctly - (they all wear over time) to get rid of 95% of the steering wheel play as well.

I also noticed the tire change to the Michelin 285 LTX's over the Goodyear AT's that I did have on there. Michelin's are much more quiet and somewhat smoother on the highway I have not missed the more rugged off-road tread of the Goodyears even when we were out at Big Bend this year.

D

 

[beamer]

It is funny now looking at your signature.

I am looking to go with the Hellwig rear bar, the RAS and V code springs in the front.

What did you have to do to use the V codes in the front, anything other than ordering and replacing? Any special instructions?

What Ranchos are you running? I am trying to decide between 5000, 9000 and the Bilstiens (the set that CT Performance sells).

I think that will take care of my suspension plenty good enough other than ball joint replacement (DS is popping occassionally). I understand Moog is the way to go with them and then get an alignment and new tires, probably the Nitto Grapplers there.

Your input is greatly appreciated.


Mike

 

[TXSailor]

I bought a pair of used V codes from a 2006 F250 ($150). They had about 45,000 miles on them but some clean up and paint and they looked brand new. That was the first suspension mod I did. It is not difficult ( i did it myself and w/o any additional help) but it would be easier w/ 2 people. I did not remove the front bumper but it would be much easier I thnk to do so. I have the instructions in a Word Doc w/ pictures if you need them.

The only difficult "bolt" to deal with is the front shackle hanger. It is difficult to get to and put much leverage on. Also it is coated w/ blue Locktite so a bit of heat from a propane torch will help there. Took me about 5 hours to do both sides.

I bought Rancho 5000 for the front end (those are a bit cheaper and I did not thnk I would be adjusting them much if ever). They are definitely worth the money and a bit softer than the Bilsteins. Rancho 9000's in the back but to be honest, they do not get adjusted much either so I should have saved the money and used 5000's there as well.

The Hellwig made the biggest difference in handling and ride. Just be careful when you replace the lower shock mounts (that's where they attach wiht ne brackets from Hellwig) because the rear shocks will extend to full length and they are a bit of a strain to get compressed and bolted back up. Then check the tightness and genral mounting after a couple of hundred miles.

I am very happy with the results and will only replace the rear leaf springs if a really good/great deal comes along on B or F codes.

PM me if you need detailed docs and I have been collecting stuff for several years now.

D

 

[BigRed02]

Sorry about being the newb here. Can you guys explain to me the whole codes with the springs thing, or direct me to a link. I have to replace my rears due to the horrible sag it has right now on the Ex, about 2-4". A suggestion was thrown my way with replacing and adding some F350 blocks. I have a fabtech level'n kit on it right now and am going with some bilstein 5100's. Anyother suggestions will be appreciated, thanks guys hope I didn't hijack

 

[TXSailor]

A search on this Forum or on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts (Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Ford truck and SUV owners and enthusiasts Community And Information Source.) will literally "bury" you in information about springs and Excursions. I'd start with that.

Most folks that replace their rear springs go for B codes or F codes (
F codes are the later version of "B" codes") from F250 and F350 Super Duties.

Search on that & you should find what you're looking for. I'm no expert (just a shade tree Mechanic) but I'll send you some stuff in a PM.

D