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Discussion Starter #1
I would think that they would be common sense on how to hook up. I am running the 4770 base, and the stanadyne fm100.

For the 4770 does it matter where I run inlet and outlets? I would assume that one would use an x pattern instead of straight across. My thought is that doing this would bypass the filter.
Here is how I have chosen to run it.


I would assume for the Stanadyne which has a 1,2,3,4 with no arrows would be the same x pattern. Is this correct?
 

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The biggest thing to worry about is that the "IN" side feeds the outside of the filter element and the "OUT" side comes from the center of the filter. You have your diagram correct, the 4770 has 4 ports to keep things convenient for your install. Do not use Teflon tape on any fitting where there is a pump/compressor involved.

[EDIT: Just to clarify, the 4770 has only one inlet (arrows pointing at each other) and one outlet (arrows pointing away from each other). You just have to pick which direction you want your hoses to point.]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Fantastic that is what I was hoping. My worry was just cirumventing the filter media and running straight through. Glad to hear I was correct. Based on that assumption I'd guess that the FM 100 is the same, although it only has 1,2,3,4.

Thanks a bunch for your help I was just getting worried wondering.
 

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No worries.
 

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Just curious - how do you plan to adapt to the banjo housing in the valley? Considering e-fuel myself...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I really wanted to go from a 12 ORBF to 1/2 nptm, and then 1/2 female to 3/8 barb.

I found the part for like $5 dollars, but shipping was going to be $20 dollars for that one little fitting. I said eff it and went through a different supplier who had the same fitting but it went to 3/4, and from there I am going 3/4 female to 1/2 male, and then 1/2 to 3/8 barb.

I am going to be making up kits (without regulator or fuel pump), with a nice bracket and rock shield, and the electrical. I'm gonna do a nice step by step guide, and probably a video of the install. Gonna use cat filters. However, I'm not a vendor so I won't be selling any until such time. Probably start selling them on ebay while I wait for that as I hear it can take a while. Should come in around $400 or so. According to market research that I have done there is a big demand for a kit including all the fittings and some of the leg work done, as regulators and fuel pumps are easy to find. Plus it gives the purchaser some leeway in choosing a less spendy option or a more spendy option than I have decided to use.

I've spent easily 20+ hours sourcing parts to ensure that I am getting the best deals and about the same time designing how I want it on my truck.

I was hoping to use 5/16 for most of the project, but in terms of my adaptation to the SD fuel pump it fits up to the quick lock barb and then stops. So my plan is to try and go over that with 5/16 or just run everything to 3/8, but it would require spending $60 dollars on new fuel injection hose.

ETA: I just tried and 3/8s fits perfect over the boss on the SD fuel pump. 5/16 double clamped is also really strong on there. I tried really pulling on it and it didn't even move.
 

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awesome, looking forward to the in-depth write-up and updates!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad to hear it. All of the writeups I have studied are pretty good. There is some stuff I have to learn through either trial and error and questions on this forum and others.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This question is not directly pertaining to the bases, but the wiring. I figured it would be best to use the same thread.

So for my wiring I plan to do it like this, pump grounded to efuel mount. Power wire ran up loom in frame then to pole 87 on relay.
86 on relay is going to ground in engine bay.
Pole 30 will have power from fused wire from battery.

Since I am planning on an inertia switch and an oil pressure switch, this is where it confuses me. I assume I could come off of pole 85 onto the relay, use the power wire on the IS, and then ground that, then I could run that into c on the OPS(oil pressure switch). Wouldn't it be feasible to run power from ignition source in fuse box to it?
 

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Think I would use 14awg wire and run:

1: fused hard power (Battery)
2: through IS
3: through relay
4: to pump supply

One wire, very simple.
 

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Got to thinking about it. My setup doesn't use a relay. I have a pressure switch (looks like a oil pressure sender) that just has a in and a out. Pressure pushes on a diaphragm and closes that contacts letting the juice fly. A IS switch should only have two poles, a in and a out not a positive and a negative.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I just looked at my IS, and it has a red wire and a green wire.Meaning they go in line. Ie I bring my line to the is, attach one wire of is, take other side of is wire and connect back into my line heading towards wherever I am going. Essentially like how one wires in a inline fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright so I think I have got it figured out thanks to some diagrams and forums.
86 pole is ground on relay
30 pole is fused from battery
87 pole is heading to fuel pump via power wire
85 pole heads over and hits the inertia switch, which then leads down into the OPS which has key on power via fuse #5 in fuse box. The nc post on the OPS should be power while cranking which I think I can snag from the + post on my starter solenoid.

Does this sound about right?
 

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Yep, mine doesn't have a power on while cranking. If your LPOP is still pretty good it should close the oil pressure relay within two rotations. What would keep it a clean look would be to see if you could run the relay and wiring to the under hood fuse panel and to the unused relay 5 spot.
 

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Yeah I just looked at my IS, and it has a red wire and a green wire.Meaning they go in line. Ie I bring my line to the is, attach one wire of is, take other side of is wire and connect back into my line heading towards wherever I am going. Essentially like how one wires in a inline fuse?
Yes. The IS should just be a interrupter switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yep, mine doesn't have a power on while cranking. If your LPOP is still pretty good it should close the oil pressure relay within two rotations. What would keep it a clean look would be to see if you could run the relay and wiring to the under hood fuse panel and to the unused relay 5 spot.
Thats the plan and I have a second box/wiring harness for parts. I just don't know exactly what I need to do for that (although I've read like 4 threads where they use the box). I know it involves pulling out the buss bar and grabbing terminals. But for now I'm just gonna hardwire it in and then test everything and loom it in factory locations where I can and then later on go relay box, if/when my setup works.
 

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Awesome, don't forget the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pics and writeup are in the works. For the starter trigger wire, is it ok to come off the smallest terminal on the solenoid? Its on the rear/cab side of the solenoid.

For ignition power I jammed a spade terminal into the #5 fuse with the fuse.

Are those ok sources?
 

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Pics and writeup are in the works. For the starter trigger wire, is it ok to come off the smallest terminal on the solenoid? Its on the rear/cab side of the solenoid. 1

For ignition power I jammed a spade terminal into the #5 fuse with the fuse.

Are those ok sources? 2
1 Except for using the started solenoid for hard battery power the rest of the solenoid is only energized when the key is in start. Meaning if you are looking to only have this as a helper circuit (turn pump on only while cranking before the oil pump can close the relay) then it would be fine though in this case I'd hook it to the larger terminal since you don't want to burn up the low current side o the starting system.

2 that is fine for now. Its for trailer brakes and the back up lights. Since it has it's own fuse make sure that you are only jacked into the constant hot side of the fuse bus. Take a meter, remove the fuse, rotate key to run, and test both sides of the bus to see what side is supplying the power. Jack in here or you will be piggy backing power off the other side after the 15amp fuse that is in there.

Clear as mud?
 
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