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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. Sorry if I didn't get this in the right area, it's been a while since I needed any help! I need to know how to pull codes using the CEL. I know I did this before because that's how I verified I had a bad CPS. I've never had a scan tool and would rather not drive all the way back to town to get one today. When I was driving in this morning the truck (97 F250 7.3) would buck and idle rough and the CEL came on several times. It would always restart and run fine until it started to act up again, got worse as it got warmer. I replaced the CPS myself 2 years ago for this and never had the issue come back. I took it in for the recall less than 1000 miles ago and I suspect they one they replaced it with is as bad as my original one. Does anyone remember how to pull the codes using the CEL? tried cycling the key 5 times, and searced for 30 min on the web. Everyone says use a scanner but I KNOW I did it somehow before without one. Thanks in advance!
 

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Desert Shield/Storm Vet
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Honestly I have never heard about the on off with the ignition for a powerstroke:dunno: Thats a new one on me. I know some vehicles you can, but didn't know you could with a powerstroke, so I can't help ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hmm this is driving me nuts. I know I was even able to do the injector buzz test (I remember how loud they were)
 

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I’m going to subscribe to this thread, I don’t think it is possible but if it is I want to know how.

I know on the 82ish to 96ish Fords you could use a analogue volt meter and a jumper wire to get the codes.
On a Dodge around those same years you could cycle the key 3 times and count the flashes for the codes.
And on a Chevy you could put a jumper in A and B in the diag connector and count the flashes.
Never heard of a DIY way since OBDII came out in 96ish.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I gave up, took it to the dealer (well limped it..) turns out the injector module is failing, $1200, grrrr, not much a man can do, but wanted to post in case anyone else gets a similar symptom, the part is crazy expensive, $950...
 

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I agree it can be done. I did it too as Autozone was reading out the codes with their tool. I think it is key off, hold mile reset button or trip toggle button and then key on, while holding either of those buttons. Code should show up in the digital odometer window. I read it somewhere I think. Hope it works.
 

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International Threat
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^^ ^ ^
I think that's a Dodge thing...
 

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International Threat
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Well I gave up, took it to the dealer (well limped it..) turns out the injector module is failing, $1200, grrrr, not much a man can do, but wanted to post in case anyone else gets a similar symptom, the part is crazy expensive, $950...
The IDM???

Just go to the junkyard and get one and put it on your truck!!!!!! If you haven't already paid the dealership!
 

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you can only pull codes using key on / key off on pre odb2 vehicles (95 and earlier)
 

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you can only pull codes using key on / key off on pre odb2 vehicles (95 and earlier)
yeah i believe he's right ....... unfortunately. :dunno:
 

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Well I gave up, took it to the dealer (well limped it..) turns out the injector module is failing, $1200, grrrr, not much a man can do, but wanted to post in case anyone else gets a similar symptom, the part is crazy expensive, $950...
Stop!
Don't pay that, an IDM can be had for around $200 or less from eBay or a junkyard and they are easy to install. The scan should have cost you around $75 so that means the entire repair will be less than $300.
 

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OK, so what does the thing then do when I do the following: Key off, press and hold the "Reset" button (the one that resets your trip odometer) and then key on. The speedometer goes to 80 mph+ and then back to 0 and in the digital odometer window "E 08 6" appears. If I press the button again some word shows up. When I had codes on the Truck (Autozone scanner pulled them at the time) the same codes that scanner pulled could be read there. See my Sig for my Truck, maybe some more guys can go out to the driveway and try it. Takes 1 minute and maybe we will figure this out.

See ya
 

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OK, so what does the thing then do when I do the following: Key off, press and hold the "Reset" button (the one that resets your trip odometer) and then key on. The speedometer goes to 80 mph+ and then back to 0 and in the digital odometer window "E 08 6" appears. If I press the button again some word shows up. When I had codes on the Truck (Autozone scanner pulled them at the time) the same codes that scanner pulled could be read there. See my Sig for my Truck, maybe some more guys can go out to the driveway and try it. Takes 1 minute and maybe we will figure this out.

See ya
That sounds like PSOM.

I dug this out of some archives I have.

The "PSOM" is the (electronic) Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module, which is on '92-97 only F-Series & Broncos. Earlier ones use a cable-driven (mechanical) speedo which is calibrated by changing the plastic gears in the transfer case tailhousing (or transmission tailhousing on 2WD). The E-series and Aerostars also used the PSOM for short periods, but I don't know the ranges. Resetting it is EASY: the PSOM uses the "conversion constant" to calculate the vehicle speed from the sensor frequency. You can see yours by holding the Reset button while turning the key forward to Run, then release Reset. The needle will do a full sweep test, and the odometer display will show "E ## #", meaning English units, the microprocessor revision (mine is 08), and the conversion constant lockout count (maximum is 6). Canadian ones might show "o" in the first position meaning "Overseas" (Metric) units. Pressing Reset again shows "###CAL", which is the conversion constant (without a decimal). 31x10.50's should be 9.18 .

If you want to change the constant, find the single-wire connector under the glovebox and ground the LightBlue/Yellow wire before turning the key on (you still have to hold the Reset, as before). Everything is the same as before, except "CAL" will flash, indicating that the constant can now be changed. Press the Select button to decrease the constant by 0.01, each time. When the constant reaches 5.00, it goes back to 11.00 . Larger tires or fewer teeth on the tone ring require a lower constant - R&P changes have no effect. When you have the constant you want, press the Reset button to lock it in. THIS WILL DECREASE THE LOCKOUT COUNT BY 1 - WHEN IT REACHES 0, NO FURTHER CHANGES CAN BE MADE. To abort the changes and maintain the lockout count, turn the key off before pressing Reset. When finished, turn the key off and disconnect the LB/Y wire from ground. The "PSOM Programming Enable" circuit (the LB/Y wire under the dash) is only used when you want to change the constant and use one of the lockouts. You can check the constant without grounding that wire.

Here is a partial list of constants and revs/mile for certain tire sizes:
P215/75 R12XL/AS........10.17........753
P235/75 R15XL/AS..........9.72........720
P235/75 R15XL/AT..........9.67........716
P275/60HR17XL/AS........9.32........690.5
P265/75 R15XL/AT..........9.18........680
31X10.50R15C /AT..........9.18........680

When the lockout count reaches 0, it doesn't self-destruct; you just can't change it again. It keeps using that constant forever. If you want to change again, you have to buy a new PSOM. But, remember: the only reason to change it is for a tire size change. After 6, you ought to have the size you like!

I think the reason a) it's not publicized, and b) there IS a lockout count, is so that people don't set it so the odometer registers fewer miles until they take it in for warranty work - they'd use up the 6 changes in 3 trips, and the techs would see the lockout going down, and void the rest of the mileage warranties. But that's just a guess.

The E4OD is the only one that uses the PSOM signal (I think), and it's connected to the OUTPUT, so it would be reading the converted speed. But it's fed directly from the PSOM to the EEC even on vehicles with mechanical automatics and manual transmissions, and I don't know why. My truck ran fine after the engine swap, but before I added the ABS rear end and PSOM, so I don't think it's used on trucks without the E4OD.



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Cool, thanks, solved that.

Would you mind publishing the whole list with constants somewhere and your explainantion so if someone does a search they get all the info right there?


Thanks
 

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Cool, thanks, solved that.

Would you mind publishing the whole list with constants somewhere and your explainantion so if someone does a search they get all the info right there?


Thanks
I do mind, for one reason. I don't know everything about it, tho I wish I did! I have an archive will ALL KINDS of info.. it's bits and pieces. I can only help answer specific questions, or point you in the right direction.

All of the techs on here don't know everything, but together... we know a lot.

... and then there is SCUFFY828, who is a genius.



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Darn the luck, my odometer is not digital or electronic, its the old mechanical rolling numbers thing, never have figured out how to reset it.
 
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