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Discussion Starter #21
Taking some time off this week and working on the truck. Yesterday was "Rear Door Day". I started by pulling the power window regulator assemblies out and cleaning the inside surfaces of the doors (inner skin where door panel mounts, and inside of outer skin as well).



Then I changed out the power lock actuators and installed new outer door handles with Jimmy Jammers. Sorry, no pics, didn't seem interesting enough.

Then I put in my sound deadening, on both the inner door skin as well as the inside of the outer door skin.



After installing the New OE power window regulator assemblies, reinstalling the OE vapor barrier and buttoning up the door panel, I installed new (updated) OE weatherstripping on the door opening and upgraded the door strikers to the Mustang units with the rubber bumpers.



The difference in sound when you close the door is so noticeable! I will get to the front doors later this week. It will be nice to have all of the windows and locks working right again, and the sound deadening is such a nice upgrade. Eventually I will make the time to gut the rest of the interior, pull the dash and sound deaden the rest of the cab.
 

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Taking some time off this week and working on the truck. Yesterday was "Rear Door Day". I started by pulling the power window regulator assemblies out and cleaning the inside surfaces of the doors (inner skin where door panel mounts, and inside of outer skin as well).



Then I changed out the power lock actuators and installed new outer door handles with Jimmy Jammers. Sorry, no pics, didn't seem interesting enough.

Then I put in my sound deadening, on both the inner door skin as well as the inside of the outer door skin.



After installing the New OE power window regulator assemblies, reinstalling the OE vapor barrier and buttoning up the door panel, I installed new (updated) OE weatherstripping on the door opening and upgraded the door strikers to the Mustang units with the rubber bumpers.



The difference in sound when you close the door is so noticeable! I will get to the front doors later this week. It will be nice to have all of the windows and locks working right again, and the sound deadening is such a nice upgrade. Eventually I will make the time to gut the rest of the interior, pull the dash and sound deaden the rest of the cab.
Would you mind sharing a little more about those "Mustang" door strikers you installed? Looks like a great solution to rattling doors, but I don't see that product on your website. Thanks!
 

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i have those door strikers
sometimes you have to close the door twice because they bounce back open
I think they are a good upgrade and I think mine were for n f150
there is a thread on here about them a few years back
 

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Here is a thread from the Army about the strikers I wouldn't recommend joining this site if you are sensitive at all lol
unlike here they do tolerate attitude and posters spewing BS without issue so bring your waders if you post


@
Henry5105
 

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Thanks for the quick response ZMANN! Found the part number off the PSA thread, and it looks like they're available on Amazon for $24 EA. Ordering them today!
 

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I would order a few bolts I had a few on my 06 that torx head stripped and needed drilled
they put locktite on them from the factory and the replacements
 

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I would order a few bolts I had a few on my 06 that torx head stripped and needed drilled
they put locktite on them from the factory and the replacements
Thanks for the advice. I've loosened the bolts before to move the latches in a little (didn't stop the door rattle) so they shouldn't be seized, but I'll order a spare pair just in case any of them give me trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Finally finished the front doors. Same deal as the rears, new OE lock actuators, new OE window regulator assemblies, everything cleaned and sound deadening added to the outer and inner surfaces. Fronts also got rear door handles without lock cylinders, Jimmy Jammers, Mustang strikers and new weatherstripping (not pictured). No real new info here, just pictures of the front door work.





 

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Discussion Starter #29
So, it would appear that my CCV setup will need some additional work. I do think this engine is a bit tired, but it hasn't been worth the time to actually compression test it. It does have a miss that isn't injectors, wiring or IDM. I guess I will reserve judgement on the CCV setup until I get a fresh bullet in place.


The canister is catching some oil. This is about 3000 miles worth.


The problem is, it is still allowing enough of it to make it back up to the intake. No way to really know how much, but enough to be visible.

The canister is mounted down low, behind the drivers front tire. There's a good 3-4' of hose down and then back up. I was really hoping that this would be enough hose and a good enough canister setup to do a better job than this.

Could be that the canister is too small. Could be that running both valve covers to one canister is too much for it. Could be that this old turd has more blowby than this setup can efficiently handle. At some point I will need to remove the charge air tubes, it will be interesting to see how much oil is making it to those.

Not the best update, but all I've got for now.
 

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How did you like the sound deadener added to the doors? Did it make a big difference in the road noise, especially at highway speeds? My 08 is so freaking loud cruising at 75mph, mostly wind noise and road/tire noise. I was wanting to apply the deadener to my doors like you did. Was it necessary to do both the inner and outer door skins? Stupid question, how did you get the big sheet through the little hole to apply to the outer door skin? Did you do the floor or headliner?

Also, I can't find that RAS brand by searching. Was it an ebay international purchase? Decent compared to Dynamat? I see some options on Amazon for way less than Dynamat that are highly rated.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have not had time to do the floor, back wall, firewall and roof yet. Those will have the biggest impact, but they require a lot more disassembly. I did the doors because I needed to do lock actuators and window motors and it made sense to do the sound deadening at the same time. Doing the doors takes out some rattles and gives the doors a much more "solid" sound, but most of the noise when driving comes through the floor and firewall.

RAS is a local brand. Pretty much any "dynamax" comparable material will do the same.
 

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I have not had time to do the floor, back wall, firewall and roof yet. Those will have the biggest impact, but they require a lot more disassembly. I did the doors because I needed to do lock actuators and window motors and it made sense to do the sound deadening at the same time. Doing the doors takes out some rattles and gives the doors a much more "solid" sound, but most of the noise when driving comes through the floor and firewall.

RAS is a local brand. Pretty much any "dynamax" comparable material will do the same.
Thanks for the reply. Dang, I was hoping doing the doors would have more of an effect. Sounds like you haven't seen much improvement with road noise after doing the doors then? Maybe I should splurge for just the floors first then. Are you able to do the firewall without pulling the dash? That's something I definitely don't want to do! I can handle pulling the seats and carpet, but the dash would suck!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Door would probably be more noticeable if you did then after doing the floor and roof. There is so much road noise through the floor that it's hard to quantify what the doors do. I'm doing EVERYTHING so I'm not really passing judgement until it's all done.

Firewall will require dash removal. Not looking forward to that, but it is what it is.

Do the floor and roof first if you are looking for larger areas that are easier to do and have the most impact. The floor will be significant. I'm doing my floor with a regular "dynamat" product first (deadens resonance) and then a sound blocking material after (foam based to block additional noise). Probably do the back wall and roof the same way. Firewall will depend on what I can do that doesn't mess with everything bolting back up and fitting properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Finally got around to swapping out the transmission. I had kept the fully built John Wood unit from my race truck, so now my old dinosaur has a trans that cost me almost as much as I paid for the truck! Oh well, one less thing to worry about. We do have to fine tune the VB as the shifting is a bit firm for a low power street truck (was previously behind a compound turbo'd, twin pump, 400cc setup).


Was a good time to check out the up-pipes for leaks and tighten a few loose exhaust manifold bolts.


This flexplate was on its way out, glad I got to it before it broke.


Billet flexplate from the race truck took care of the impending failure nicely!


Out with the old...


In with the...er...somewhat new!

Will have to pull the VB apart some weekend and see which way it is setup. We changed it so many times due to adding nitrous, removing nitrous, etc...who the heck remembers how it's setup now. I was hoping that the TC would have a bit higher stall, but apparently I had too much taken out of it when I had it refreshed (it was a lot higher in the race truck, so I had some taken out for the street build...probably should have left it alone). No biggie, will just have to pull it and have it restalled again later if I decide I'm not happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I got my hands on a decent 08-10 Tailgate in the right color. Looks much nicer than the beat up stocker! I tried using the Tailgate Handle Backup Camera in my stock tailgate, but the quality of that piece was horrible and the handle wouldn't stay in place when you used it to open the tailgate. The 08-10 Tailgate Handle with Backup Camera is much nicer, and it stays put (so far).

I also installed a power tailgate lock from Pop-N-Lock and a Jimmy Jammers tailgate guard while I was at it. Sorry, no pictures of those. The wiring for the camera and lock were the worst part, as both had to go inside the cab, but to 2 different places.


08-10 Tailgate - Used But Looks Good


Amazon Tailgate Handle with Backup Camera


View From Backup Camera on Double DIN Kenwood Head Unit

The camera is certainly a "nice to have" when you back into just about everywhere you park. The angle of this one is good, I can tell when I'm right up on a wall or tree, or getting close to the nose of a car.

This weekend...have to tear into the valve body and see what we've got. Definitely setup for more power than this truck is making!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I just realized that I have a truck update that I totally forgot about. I actually haven't had much time to work on the truck lately, due to other projects (personal and work related). I did manage to get my headlight upgrade installed a few weeks ago though, I just spaced posting the updates here when I did it.

The factory 05-07 headlights look OK, but the lighting sucks, even with upgraded bulbs. Having had Projector HIDs in the past, I knew that was what this thing needed. I ordered a set of brand new OEM headlights from Ford and shipped them off to Dan Cordoba of DC Customs for all of the upgrades (see list below). Dan did a Killer Job on these, I couldn't be happier!

-G5-BRT Projectors
-Osram CBB D2S Bulbs
-Apollo 2.0 Flat Shrouds
-Oxford White and Black paint
-Tinted Klearz Reflector
-XD Xtreme Digital Ballasts
-DC Customs H13 Harness
-XD Ceramic 3157 Switchback Park/Turn Indicators


Headlights Installed - Close Up


Headlights Installed


Headlights Installed


Standard Bulb (Left) vs Projector HID (Right) - This is LOW BEAM ONLY (notice the nice cutoff on the top of the HID)

Here's a link to the DC Customs post on Facebook with a few more pictures of Dans work on my lights. Check him out if you are in the market for some light work!

 
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