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Hey guys just took a trip in my 04 truck this past weekend about 4 hours away hauling my 24ft gooseneck. truck made it there fine the entire time not one rise in temperature. But the second I started heading back home the truck would start overheating going up hills and would climb extremely fast halfway up the hill. pulled over at the first gas station noticed the cap had popped and sprayed coolant out. topped it off and looked for any more leaks. I then found the top of the oil cooler housing is leaking coolant at the upper cover. so I topped it off and started limping it home not using the ac. was finally able to get to a parts store to get a new cap. put the new cap on got an hour down the road and halfway up a hill it pops the brand new cap and starts overheating. filled it up and limped it home the 2 hours I had left. on that stretch I found it only gets hot when the cap would pop (I could smell it everytime it did) and would cool down on the downhill if I stayed out of it. I don't know if im building coolant pressure or if the oil cooler isn't cooling correctly and causing system to steam and nuild pressure. im going to do a combustion test tomorrow but from what I can tell from a cold start you can let it run for 5 minutes and there is very minimal pressure under cap barely even a noise which makes me think head gaskets are fine but we shall see tomorrow just curious if my thoughts with the oil cooler are slightly on track. also egr is removed which eliminate a bad cooler
 

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Hey guys just took a trip in my 04 truck this past weekend about 4 hours away hauling my 24ft gooseneck. truck made it there fine the entire time not one rise in temperature. But the second I started heading back home the truck would start overheating going up hills and would climb extremely fast halfway up the hill. pulled over at the first gas station noticed the cap had popped and sprayed coolant out. topped it off and looked for any more leaks. I then found the top of the oil cooler housing is leaking coolant at the upper cover. so I topped it off and started limping it home not using the ac. was finally able to get to a parts store to get a new cap. put the new cap on got an hour down the road and halfway up a hill it pops the brand new cap and starts overheating. filled it up and limped it home the 2 hours I had left. on that stretch I found it only gets hot when the cap would pop (I could smell it everytime it did) and would cool down on the downhill if I stayed out of it. I don't know if im building coolant pressure or if the oil cooler isn't cooling correctly and causing system to steam and nuild pressure. im going to do a combustion test tomorrow but from what I can tell from a cold start you can let it run for 5 minutes and there is very minimal pressure under cap barely even a noise which makes me think head gaskets are fine but we shall see tomorrow just curious if my thoughts with the oil cooler are slightly on track. also egr is removed which eliminate a bad cooler
My bet is on head gaskets...

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Discussion Starter #3
My bet is on head gaskets...

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what makes you lean towards that just curious, Its just weird it started out of no where ive towed way bigger loads with this truck all year long and this just started happening this trip
 

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what makes you lean towards that just curious, Its just weird it started out of no where ive towed way bigger loads with this truck all year long and this just started happening this trip
Without more information and troubleshooting I'm just shooting from the hip. What where your EOT and ECT before this started and what were they when this happened?

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Without more information and troubleshooting I'm just shooting from the hip. What where your EOT and ECT before this started and what were they when this happened?

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sadly my cts2 took a crap 2 weeks ago but then my ect would stay around 195 barely touch 208 when loaded down with a skid steer eot temp never left within 8 degrees of each others. also don't know how I could blow a head gasket on a studded truck since I didn't pin the needle out ever
 

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sadly my cts2 took a crap 2 weeks ago but then my ect would stay around 195 barely touch 208 when loaded down with a skid steer eot temp never left within 8 degrees of each others. also don't know how I could blow a head gasket on a studded truck since I didn't pin the needle out ever
Studs are not a guaranteed solution unfortunately. Many studded trucks have blown gaskets for many reasons. Often times the job is not done properly the first time. Were the heads o ringed? Again not a guaranteed fix just extra insurance. I would put a gauge on and see how much pressure you are building in your coolant system under load.

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Discussion Starter #7
Studs are not a guaranteed solution unfortunately. Many studded trucks have blown gaskets for many reasons. Often times the job is not done properly the first time. Were the heads o ringed? Again not a guaranteed fix just extra insurance. I would put a gauge on and see how much pressure you are building in your coolant system under load.

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studs were done by a very highly recommended shop so hopefully that's not the issue haha. but I will definently do that tomorrow. not sure if heads were oringed previous owner just gave me the receipt for the bulletproof. if they are blown looks like its time for a cab up some kill devil diesel heads and a set of warren 175/30s
 
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EGR "solution", does that mean it is gone?

I would suggest a pressure gauge on the coolant bottle -- then warm the engine a little, release the pressure -- and do a WOT run -- check for a sharp pressure rise
do again when the engine is at temperature
it is important to release the pressure just before the run, and the run does not need to be long
what you are looking for is the "sharp rise" in pressure -- the cap should blow off at 16 psi

if there is no sharp rise, then the head gaskets are likely good
if only getting high pressure on a long pull, then suspect the T-stat or water pump(the plastic impeller can slip)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
EGR "solution", does that mean it is gone?

I would suggest a pressure gauge on the coolant bottle -- then warm the engine a little, release the pressure -- and do a WOT run -- check for a sharp pressure rise
do again when the engine is at temperature
it is important to release the pressure just before the run, and the run does not need to be long
what you are looking for is the "sharp rise" in pressure -- the cap should blow off at 16 psi

if there is no sharp rise, then the head gaskets are likely good
if only getting high pressure on a long pull, then suspect the T-stat or water pump(the plastic impeller can slip)
that would totally make sense if it was the water pump Ijust put a parts store one in last year to get me off the side of the road. Also I was looking at my fan and notice 3 wires worn through on the harness to the clutch starting to also wonder if that was my problem
 

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Yeah, if the engine was getting hot you should have heard the fan roar, before it blew the coolant
Does your monitor not show fan RPM and commanded percentage?

The t-stat sets the minimum temp and the fan(pcm control) sets the max temp on the 6.0 system
more likely the frayed wires than the pump, since you replaced it
one of the vendors here makes a support for the fan wires to "stiffen" them up so they do not get into the blades
 

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Yeah, if the engine was getting hot you should have heard the fan roar, before it blew the coolant
Does your monitor not show fan RPM and commanded percentage?

The t-stat sets the minimum temp and the fan(pcm control) sets the max temp on the 6.0 system
more likely the frayed wires than the pump, since you replaced it
one of the vendors here makes a support for the fan wires to "stiffen" them up so they do not get into the blades
okay I was considering doinga mechanical fan conversion anyways looks like this just sped it up lol
 

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I have the mechanical fan and want to put the electronic back on, ...lol
 

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I have the mechanical fan and want to put the electronic back on, ...lol
Why so? I’ve always heard great things about the mechanical conversion
 

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My '06 was stolen from my farm on 5-22-20, I need a truck to move my farm machinery so truck shopping I went
got another '06 this one has the mechanical clutch -- the AC is not as cold
just got the truck on the 19th of June, so there may be more as I get used to it and learn it's quirks
 

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Why so? I’ve always heard great things about the mechanical conversion
For me it’s the noise. The mechanical fan clutch engages the fan a lot more than the electric one. But it does keep the engine nice and cool.

The AC is also much colder at idle.


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I'm in the club of had head gaskets after ARP studs. Heads were actually done twice by me after having studs put in the first time. The reputable shop that did them the second time thinks that a prior owner had done them an additional time because the heads were milled below specs before that reputable shop touched them. Up to that I had babied my truck. Before I purchased the truck with 154k it had been a construction truck and went through the auction circuit, so who knows how much abuse it saw prior to me.
 

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90+% of the images with blown head gaskets show they have issues right down the center, the heads tent. No reason to think that thinner material that makes the top of the combustion chamber would not leed to easier tenting, and most likely why International put the limit at 3.740". And why Ford altered the head flatness check to concentrate on the flatness across the width of the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So finally got home to all my tools took out my blueprint combustion gas tester found no combustion gas at cold, while idling, or while warm. Put on my snap on pressure tester started from dead cold and had 0 psi until truck was almost all the way warm even with an occasional rev. Let the truck get warm coolant pressure settle at 8 psi. Turned the truck onto the hottest tune I have 35 psi+ of boost And went and did 3 wot pulls coolant pressure never peaked 12 psi. I’m Leaning towards the fan clutch and a faulty Murray coolant cap (only one available on my trip). I’m gonna fix my fan clutch replace probably the whole degas bottle and reseal my oil cooler and see how that goes I’ll keep y’all posted
 

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So finally got home to all my tools took out my blueprint combustion gas tester found no combustion gas at cold, while idling, or while warm. Put on my snap on pressure tester started from dead cold and had 0 psi until truck was almost all the way warm even with an occasional rev. Let the truck get warm coolant pressure settle at 8 psi. Turned the truck onto the hottest tune I have 35 psi+ of boost And went and did 3 wot pulls coolant pressure never peaked 12 psi. I’m Leaning towards the fan clutch and a faulty Murray coolant cap (only one available on my trip). I’m gonna fix my fan clutch replace probably the whole degas bottle and reseal my oil cooler and see how that goes I’ll keep y’all posted
I had the same issue, mine was a bad fan clutch. Fixed it and it will hold 200 up steep grades.
 
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