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Discussion Starter #1
First off it’s an 03 6.0 powerstroke. For anyone having similar issues as what I’m describing hope this helps. Start by replacing your degas bottle cap with a factory motorcraft cap not Ebay junk. OEM cap is only $9 whether at the dealer or Amazon.
So for the past couple months I’ve been throwing parts at my truck trying to diagnose my issue. I was having loss of power while going up inclines, whether I’m pulling a trailer or empty, and also erratic or surging idle. I changed the mass airflow sensor and pigtail, that took care of some of the issue, changed the icp sensor and pigtail, new ipr valve, ebp sensor, changed the coolant cap because the old cap was cheap aftermarket garbage and was failed. I don’t have a tuner, but got ahold of a snap on scanner, all the codes I had I fixed the issues, and cleared the codes. Turns out it was my degas bottle causing the issue. It had a tiny pinhole in the top causing the system to not remain pressurized. Not being pressurized caused the truck to lower the boiling point of the coolant, and putting itself in limp mode. I hope this helps someone else!
 

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Glad you got it resolved. You sure should consider getting a scan tool to watch engine parameters when driving! I am constantly watching coolant and oil temps!
 
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Bismic I definitely plan on that in the near future. I did go out and get a set of gauges. I got a pyrometer, boost gauge, and fuel pressure. I bought the truck bone stock, never been tuned according to the small dealer I bought it from. It’s been a learning experience that’s for sure. I figure by the time I get rid of the truck I’ll be a diesel mechanic 😂
 

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I assumed he lost level in the system and/or had boiling inside of the engine that prevented good flow and heat transfer. Again an assumption, but I figured he got an excessive oil temperature or an excessive differential wrench light, then limp mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ZMANN I had other issues with the truck as well. The codes I was getting was for the other issues and parts I replaced.

Bismic never had a light pop on the dash which is weird. It just lost power and would barely go up a hill. I’m talking pedal to the floor 3,500 rpms and top speed of 40mph. Let off the pedal and truck cools down a little and it’s back to running like normal.
 

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Bismic I definitely plan on that in the near future. I did go out and get a set of gauges. I got a pyrometer, boost gauge, and fuel pressure. I bought the truck bone stock, never been tuned according to the small dealer I bought it from. It’s been a learning experience that’s for sure. I figure by the time I get rid of the truck I’ll be a diesel mechanic 😂
Torque Pro and OBDLink MX or the BAFX adapter for your monitor

I have a Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 mounted on the cup holder drawer
the OBDLink MX is Bluetooth and wifi -- also auto shut off -- I think BAFX offers one similar

Don't bother with the knock off adapters -- it is a roll of the dice on those
 

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Bismic never had a light pop on the dash which is weird. It just lost power and would barely go up a hill. I’m talking pedal to the floor 3,500 rpms and top speed of 40mph. Let off the pedal and truck cools down a little and it’s back to running like normal.
Forgot it was an 03 - no wrench light, only on 05 and up IIRC. No limp mode on high differential either - will happen on high coolant and high oil temp
 

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in my ´05 I had 16psi and more coolant pressure before EGR delete. Now its climbing up to 3-4psi until it is at operating temp.
Then the pressure disappears very slowly within ~ 1 hour to almost zero psi
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so I lied. Truck is not fixed. It ran great for 2 days, and went back to having issues. Icp sensor and pigtail are new as well as the ipr valve, new degas bottle and cap. I lose power going up hill with my 16 foot landscape trailer. Saturday the truck actually stalled. Pedal to the floor from a stop and I could barely hit 5mph shut the truck off for 5 minutes and it’s completely fine. I do not have a scan gauge yet, the picture I posted is of a friends snap on scanner a week previous to changing the IPR out. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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P0683 is almost always a failed GPCM.

Looks like you still might have an electrical issue w/ the ICP (although P2284 could be a v-reference issue or even a low battery voltage issue)

Lastly - maybe an issue w/ injector #2.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Injector #2 issue with fixed with stiction remover. Haven’t had that code back. Would the icp issue cause it to lose that much power and stall? Also with those icp codes, what are the odds that will lead me to my HPOP? I have a brand new alternator on the truck, and the batteries where tested and passed.
 

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The three ICP codes are electrical. An HPOP isn't going to throw multiple ICP electrical codes (a P2285 maybe, but not all three).

The GPCM issue might be pulling down voltage - even when the alternator and batteries are new .....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is there a way to replace the whole ICP harness, or just the pigtail. Also my truck is an 03 with 05 heads on it, so the icp sensor is in the front. New sensor is directly from my local ford dealership, but was for an 03. Could that have anything to do with it?
 

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I have interchanged ICP sensors without issue.

IMO you change the pigtail or the entire harness, but some people get lucky in splitting the harness open and finding a trouble spot. Look for places that it rubs on brackets or studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok so I checked out the whole wiring harness. I seemed to have found what may be the issue. I traced the wire back to the back of the motor on the drivers side by the turbo.the wire is a little crispy, and looks bare on one spot. I have it circled. The question is, where do I find the entire harness? I have checked all over online, and I’ll I can find is the pigtail. Also I noticed what looked to be fuel on the back injector on the same side. Right by the icp sensor harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was hoping it would be a cheaper fix haha. I guess I should have known better being a diesel. I would just hate to spend that kind of money for it not to fix my issue. I also found while I was under the hood, a little bit of oil by the HPOP. I don’t know without cleaning it up where it’s coming from. I know I changed the low pressure sensor out because it was puking oil from the o-ring. Not sure if it’s residual from that or it’s HPOP related.
 

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HPOP leaks will be internal. The HPOP cover can leak, but if it isn't much, then ignore it (IMO)
 
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