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Ok I am stumped and cannot find a wiring diagram thats decent anywhere online. I have a 2005 f350 crew cab ever since bought truck 2 years ago passenger switch never unlocked doors only locked them so figured was bad switch. Well last week driver side stopped working can lock doors but not unlock with switch I can however unlock with key fob or the keypad on outside of drivers door. there for know its not the actuator motors. I checked wiring between door and pillar to see if broken wire but all seems fine. So now i am stumped unless find a good wiring diagram?? Next on list to replace is the VSM and someone told me ford has to program that and to get that replaced and programmed looking at over $600 so I am open to any ideas came here thinking maybe someone else has had this problem and can share what they found???
 

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Have you determined it's not the switches? I know I had/have a failing lock switch on ght drivers side (will unlock, but not always lock) and a failing passenger side window button on the pass door. I took them apart and cleaned the contacts and made sure that all the mechanism is making contacts and it seems to work for a while and then slowly stop working again.
 

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The drivers switch is the "master switch, meaning the passenger door lock circuit is passed through the drivers. If there is a single function (lock or unlock) not working, its usually a bad switch. If both functions do not work, it could be the master switch.
 

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it locks but dont unlock on both sides so replaced both switches with new ford switches and still doing same thing thats why Im now stumped because key fob works and door key pad on drivers door works. was told maybe the VSM vehicle security module may be bad? But not easy to replace and ford has to program it. I am hoping its not as I dont need them flashing my computer while they get a chance at it.
 

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it locks but dont unlock on both sides so replaced both switches with new ford switches and still doing same thing thats why Im now stumped because key fob works and door key pad on drivers door works. was told maybe the VSM vehicle security module may be bad? But not easy to replace and ford has to program it. I am hoping its not as I dont need them flashing my computer while they get a chance at it.
Did you ever figure out what the issue was?
 

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Did you ever figure out what the issue was?
5 1/2 year old thread I hope so if not he probably kill himself by now:hehe::hehe::sarcasticlol:
 
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I have seen these sorts of problems before but not exactly like this one. Usually the FOB doesn't always work either. Generally I see them where the power seems good but the locks just won't unlock or lock. Generally you can hear the actuators trying unlock the door but it just doesn't seem to have the power to actually work.

I have fixed lot's of them that are like I have described and actually just posted on it tonight in a different thread.

I am a new member so I am unable to post the link to the thread so I will cut/paste it here.

OTHER MEMBER'S POST:

help with power door locks
Please help!!! I have a 2005 f250 All of the sudden the power door locks have quit working. Here's what I have found so far...
The drivers side locks do nothing at all, I don't even hear a click or anything. I have checked my grounds, and they are good, I am getting power to the switch and across the switch in both lock and unlock position but nothing happens.

The passenger side will unlock all the doors if they are locked, but it will not lock any doors.

I also have a remote key fob, it will unlock the doors if they are locked, but will not lock any doors, I do hear what appears to be relays clicking either way.

I am stumped, as they have been working fine, then all the sudden they all don't work. Super duty xlt

Thanks for any help you can throw out there...

MY REPLY:

Had the almost the same problem with my truck. I fixed mine in the end. The problem wasn't that the actuators were shot, rather a tiny part in them was worn out. As a guess, I would have to say that your doors auto lock when you put the truck in gear. If I am right on this one, disable that feature and then continue with the fix. The process should be in your owners manual and take about 30 seconds to complete. I recommend this so you don't have more trouble with your actuators after you fix them.

First, the problem. Inside your actuator is a little motor. Inside the motor there is a tiny piece of metal - not sure what it is - that heats up when the motor is engaged. Once it gets hot enough it bends to break the contact and lets the motor shut off. It does this so that if you hold the button down, say something is resting on the switch, the motor doesn't burn out. The problem is that the tiny piece of metal becomes weak with time and it doesn't make proper contact anymore.

Next, the fix. You will need a screw driver to take your door apart and tape to tape the plastic barrier in place when you are done. Also I found that a long set of seal picks came in very handy to remove and replace the linkage for your lock button. You remove your actuator and take it in the house or shop. Anywhere you have a table or bench to work on. When you look at the actuator you will see marks in the plastic near the outside edge of the face that look almost like they should have been bolt holes but they are filled in with plastic. Just look for the faint circles in the molding and you will see them. Get a drill with a bit that fits those circles and slowly drill them out. Next, you will be splitting the actuator in half from top to bottom down the sides. Do this slowly with plenty of light so you can see how everything goes together before you tear it apart.

Once you have it apart, you take the little motor out and slowly and carefully pry the front and back pieces apart to split it in half. A tiny flat screw driver works well. A bit tedious but you will get it. Inside that motor you will clearly see the tiny piece of metal that you are after. It should be silver and a shaped like a rectangle less than the size of the nail on your little finger. You can't miss the piece of metal. It's quite obvious.

Take that piece of metal out with some tweezers and lay it on a piece of aluminum foil wrap that you use to bake potatoes in. Cut the aluminum foil so that it is the same length as the piece of metal and long enough to wrap the metal in about two layers thick. Wrap the metal tightly in the foil and try to keep the foil from getting all wrinkled. Just make sure its wrapped tightly. Replace the "fixed" piece of metal in the motor and put everything back together. You can use zip-ties to hold the actuator together. Just run them through the holes you drilled in the housing. You may want to put some silicone in the holes etc to keep moisture out in the future.

Put your actuator back in the door and you will be good to go. Move on and do the next one.

I have fixed quite a few of these things and never had one fail on me. Every single one has worked once fixed. I did both doors on a '99 in about '05 and they are still going strong to this day. I always tell people to disable those darn auto-locks or I do it for them though. Your actuators get FAR less use when the auto-locks are disabled.

Hope this helps you out. It's not hard. Just take your time and you will get through it. The first one may take you an hour or two until you have it back in the vehicle but the second one will go much easier. I was able to do them in about 20 minutes when I was doing them often.

Incidentally: I just looked it up on YouTube and sure enough, someone has made a video on this one! Check it out and it will help you to understand everything I was saying. Gotta love YouTube. Lol

END OF REPLY


Sorry for the long post. Hope that is some help to others

Take Care
 

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Ok I am stumped and cannot find a wiring diagram thats decent anywhere online. I have a 2005 f350 crew cab ever since bought truck 2 years ago passenger switch never unlocked doors only locked them so figured was bad switch. Well last week driver side stopped working can lock doors but not unlock with switch I can however unlock with key fob or the keypad on outside of drivers door. there for know its not the actuator motors. I checked wiring between door and pillar to see if broken wire but all seems fine. So now i am stumped unless find a good wiring diagram?? Next on list to replace is the VSM and someone told me ford has to program that and to get that replaced and programmed looking at over $600 so I am open to any ideas came here thinking maybe someone else has had this problem and can share what they found???
were you ever able to find the solution I am running into the same exact problem
 
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