Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anybody ever gone into the door panels to fix the power door locks?

The power windows work fine, but the door lock buttons on both the front driver's side door, as well as the passenger front door lock won't work. They click and you can feel them trying to push the locks, however they won't lock or unlock (after pushing them down manually).

Any suggestions? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Go to General Tech, Maintenance, and Mod info and scroll down to door lock repair. Follow the instructions exactly. It will only cost you a little time, a few dollars for screws and some blood. More blood than anything else, but your locks will work. I did this myself a month ago. Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,152 Posts
yea your door lock actuators are goin out. i only replaced mine not too long ago. there is some write up in the web on an excursion. pretty good one too if you decide to completely replace them and i found my replacements for 40 for a pair on AM auto parts.
or you can just repair the ones you got in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Great article! I wonder what the aluminum foil is used for? (Why the back rectangular insert of the motor needs to be wrapped in aluminum foil?) There are couple of pictures missing in that article so I'm trying picture exactly what needs to be wrapped and why?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Great article! I wonder what the aluminum foil is used for? (Why the back rectangular insert of the motor needs to be wrapped in aluminum foil?) There are couple of pictures missing in that article so I'm trying picture exactly what needs to be wrapped and why?

Thanks
You're right, it is a great article. Don't worry about the missing pictures. Their absence proved no problem. The little piece that needs the foil is obvious once you get the motor open and clean the blood off. (I'm really not a bleeder, I just had lot's of leaks). I spent twenty years building and wrenching on my farm equipment and tractors, BIG STUFF. This little stuff scared me, but it was rather easy and quite satisfying. Plus if new actuators are 40 bucks each, you save $78. Less the dollar for screws and another for bandaids.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Okay. You'll have to bear with me on this. How exactly do I wrap this little piece with aluminum foil? Am I supposed to wrap the small plastic piece that is held in the motor by the two small tabs?

Do I completely wrap this piece then slide it back in? Or do I partially wrap it? Sorry to be so literal but I don't see what's happening here. I got this little piece pulled out of the motor btw. So far everything is going along fairly well. The mechanism was a little difficult to get out of the door, what with all the linkage and everything:nod: No bandaids so far though:thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Sorry about the delay getting back to you. If you look at picture #12 (not counting red X's). You will see the little rectangular waffer that must be removed from the plastic housing and wraped with foil. I used regular kitchen foil and put one small layer all around the wafer, wrapped it tight (think a nice Christmas present) and slid it back in it's slot.

NO BANDAIDS????????? Wow, either you're really good or I suck. Good job!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Found it! Right before I checked back for the reply, and I found the little rectangular piece.

Yeah no bandaids yet, but I'm having trouble trying to piece back the linkage that runs from the door key lock. Any photos or any way someone can help me try to get this linkage back correctly????? I'll check back at the tech thread again and see if there's a photo there that I missed......

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all your help SportsDad. I got it finished about an hour and a half ago. Not too bad a job considering all......I guess:crazy:

Good News is: Since I own a CrewCab, now all I have is three more to go!!!!
Yep. Believe it or not, all four were not working. And I thought if I fixed the driver's side, that would fix them all, but I guess there are 3 other seperate motors in each 3 doors remaining, huh?

I got short on time today, so the only thing I did different, was I used zip ties instead of the self tapping screws. It tightened it up pretty well, plus it saved me a trip to the hardware store.

If it makes you feel better I got my right index finger knuckle right as I was finishing up:rofl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
No sweat. Door lock actuators was my first job when I began to reclaim my truck from my son. I had plenty of help from this site so I'm just repaying my debt. A little hint, learn how to use the search funtion. It will be much faster than waiting for a knucklehead like myself to get back to you. Good luck on the other three doors. Keep the blood lose to a minimum!
 

·
Powerstroke Junkie
Joined
·
8,308 Posts
I am probably to late but why not do the job right and replace the actuators? Ford has known about their piss poor actuators for years, just like the CPS they have made a fortune replacing them. Just for kicks I called my local Ford dealer and they wanted $460 to replace the four actuators on my crewcab. I have read the write up on the foil trick, sounds like a good way to start a fire, just kidding, I went with new actuators from powerstrokeshop.com, cost me $43 each, the new design from Ford is much stronger. I have replaced the actuators in four different trucks now. Funny after you fix something on your truck your buddy has the same exact problem with his!! I always recommend doing all of them. The first one will take an hour or two to get it out, but after you learn the tricks the others take 15 min. Besides if you leave the one that's working it will surely die next week. To each his own though.

NCH
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top