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Discussion Starter #1
i replaced orings and the truck started right away but seemed like it was missing on one. so i shut it off for about 10 minutes. on the restart it seemed like it was only running on four and was really running ruff. i checked the hpop reservoir and it was full. checked for codes and had none. it starts up and when i rev it it acts like it starving for fuel or oil and eventually dies.
the hpop doesn't seem to be bleeding down. i did notice that the oil pressure gauge takes a little while to start to read while cranking. the reason i replace the oring was because i had oil in the fuel filter housing. Is this normal?:eek:hnoes:
 

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Is it white smoking heavily when you first start it then starts to die off? Sounds like you didn't get an injector seated and compression leaked by and took out one of the fuel rail orings.....
 

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Yes. You didn't get one of the injectors seated all the way and now compression is bleeding back into the fuel rail. It's causing a whole side to not get fuel which is why it feels like it's only running on 4 injectors.


Go under the truck and disconnect the fuel pump wiring. Then pull both the small fuel lines going to the heads off from the fuel filter housing. Crank the engine and one of the lines should start pumping pressure off. Trace the line to whichever head and this is the side that the injector is messed up on. You will then have to pull all the injectors to figure out which one it is. You will probably be fine with just replacing the orings on that one injector.
 

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you can remove the vc's, and run a straight edge across the tops of the injectors to see what one/s are not seated also. While your there, do the 50 cent mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Justimix, thank you! you knocked that one out of the park! I pulled the two fuel lines and found that i had air coming from the 1,3,5,7 bank. i pulled all the injectors from that side and found #3 to be the culprit. the copper washer hadn't even been compressed, so just reinstalled them and after a little cranking she fired right up! Thank You.
Question for you though. Is it normal for the oil gauge to take a while to register pressure while cranking after an injector install? i haven't got the truck out of my shop yet to drive and am hoping that its just trapped air that is doing this.
 

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Good deal! Yes, it's totally normal for it to take a while to build up oil pressure after having the high pressure oil system open. It will have long cranking times to start as well until you drive it for about 20 miles so don't sweat it. After that you should be right back to normal!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, i need to get a few more things before i button it all up then i will take it on the road. Thank You For your help it is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I took the truck out today and ran it down and up the hill (4mile round trip) and there is a definently a miss. It lacked power and it shuddered a bit. When I got back to the house and put my hand on the manifold and it felt as if #1 is cold. Is this normal? Still think its air? Total run time idling at about 20min.
Oh ya, after I got back I noticed the serpentine belt had walked off a couple ribs! Turns out the tensioner is shot it fell apart in my hands when I removed the belt for inspection. Good thing I have couple of parts motors. Yes!
 

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No, it's not normal. You sure you didn't knock the wire off the injector when you were in there messing around with #3? Try ohming out the injector at the valve cover gasket and see if you get a reading, or pull the valve cover and inspect it. I forget what the injectors are supposed to ohm out at but at this time I'd just try and see if you even get a reading and that will tell you if it's plugged in.

The center pin is the common ground for the injectors, and the 2 outside ones on both sides are the glow plugs. From the front of the connector you need to check continuity on the 3rd pin in and the middle pin. Make sense?

Did you do the "50 cent" mod while you had the valve cover gasket off, or at least make sure the UVCH was snapped in all the way?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got it going! The problem was me.. I am the type of guy that likes to know how things work and I had disassembled the injectors to look at the condition of the internals and #1 was the first to come apart and go back together. So knowing this I pulled #1 and disassembled it again and found that I had put the part that contains the ball bearing in upside down. Got the injector back together and reinstalled it and now she is purring like she should. Thank you for your awesome input! This is why I love the .org, there are always guys willing to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wouldn't be the first time!!!! Hahaha. So where can a guy order injector rebiuld kits? It wouldnt be that hard to rebiuld them if you could find the parts. Got ant info o DIY injector rebiuld kits?
 

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Personally I've never messed with injectors. If you don't have a flow machine to check them out it's kind of hard to know if you've repaired them. Also if you get something screwed up you can destroy an engine quick. It also depends on what you mean by rebuilding them. I know there are some DIY fuel upgrades you can do, but as far as rebuilding them totally that's beyond me.

It all depends on what part of the injector has failed, whether it's on the fuel side, the high pressure oil side, or electrically. Without the flow machine to test your rebuild it's a trial and error thing and just not worth messing with for me.

We're a Swamps authorized dealer and I've been EXTREMELY happy with their 7.3 injectors. Plus the prices are so good that it's not even worth my time messing with injectors when you can really screw something up if you don't know what you're doing.
 
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