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OK...I've got a 2003 F250 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel....The truck has right at 124,000 miles on it. I had to replace ALL 8 injectors last week and the trucks FINALLYrunning great...They told me at the shop to monitor the Engine Oil Temp and the Engine Coolant Temp and that they should not differ more that 15 degrees. Its 88 degrees today in Oklahoma, just driving to and from work and there is already a 14 degree difference in the EOT and the ECT) (EOT @ 212 degrees and the ECT is at 198 degrees)...I do run an Edge Evolution programmer set on level #1 (Economy) which only boosts the truck 15 hp...Is it normal for this temp difference with only a minor HP boost? When I changed it to stock, the temps vary no more that 8 or 9 degrees...However, If I pull my 3-horse trailer on Level 2(60 hp boost)....The EOT will climb to 230 degrees causing the programmer to flash a preset temp warning on the EOT...The ECT goes no higher than 195 to 200 degrees...I'm not losing any engine coolant and the truck seems fine....I've read the horror stories about the Engine Oil Cooler getting clogged etc, etc, etc....Does anyone have any ideas on my problem??

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Your oil cooler is plugged with junk on the coolant side of it. It is getting to the point where replacing it is advisable. Even though the 03 EGR coolers do not fail as often as the later years, replace that (or delete it) at the same time. If you are mechanically inclined and have a real good selection of metric and ASE tools and good torque wrenches (in/lb and ft/lb), you can do this repair on your own. How long that takes is up to your mechanical ability. It can be done in under 8 hours if you really know your way around under a hood.
There is a write up in my signature line for this repair.

BEFORE you do this repair, check out the coolant flushing document linked in my sig. You can disregard the reverse flushing part of it, as that will not help you. The reverse flush will only work for those that, for one reason or another, failed to perform an effective flush previous to undertaking the repair and their new oil cooler has plugged up in a very short period of time.
Flushing prior to the repair and getting rid of that junk coolant will ensure that your new oil cooler lasts a long time. You should replace the coolant with a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant. You can find this type of coolant at many of the heavy truck dealerships such as International, which sells the Fleetrite ELC. If you have difficulty finding this style coolant, try NAPA. They carry a ZEREX ELC (black bottle) that meets the CAT EC-1 rating. You must purchase the concentrated form of coolant, since the block retains very close to 50% of the total capacity of the cooling system. Since you will flush the block with distilled water, adding a premix will result in a 25/75 mix of water to coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks NYC F350!!!

You've been a great help to me and several other fellas I've seen...Its geatly appreciated by the way.

I notice you run a Bullet Proof Diesel oil cooler? Is this cooler remote mounted up front or an "improved" OEM Factory replacement that sits in place of the factory cooler?

Do you by chance have a link to the correct oil cooler I should purchase?

Lastly, I'm not planning on doing the true EGR Delete...My diesel shop will take mine and tig weld it shut on each end and reinstall it...They showed me one and it looked pretty nice as well as a lot cheaper than the EGR Delete Kit.

What performance/fuel mileage etc. will, if any, be gained by doing the EGR delete and will the truck be the tough durable truck it is supposed to be or should I simply sell it? I really like the truck and would like to keep it for a while.

Basically I want to only do this once and as cost effective as I can....This crap is getting expensive...Especially with the wife:)

Your thoughts?
 

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I notice you run a Bullet Proof Diesel oil cooler? Is this cooler remote mounted up front or an "improved" OEM Factory replacement that sits in place of the factory cooler?
It removes the stock oil cooler from the engine and replaces it with a very impressive looking system that is just plain awesome. No worries about clogged oil coolers and coolant flow to the egr cooler.
The system mounts a liquid/air heat exchanger onto the AC condenser. It is available with and without a thermostatic valve. If you live in a climate that sees snow, you need the thermostatic valve. This system, on the surface, does seem pricey. But once you buy it, you will NEVER regret it. I believe that the price is set perfectly for what you get (and I don't just mean the parts, the piece of mind that comes with it).
LINK to the system without the valve for the 03 model
The system with the valve for the 03 model

Do you by chance have a link to the correct oil cooler I should purchase?
Yes, your choices are the two links above.:rofl:
Ok, seriously, if you can't swing the cost for that system, check out Tousley Ford. $213.84 for a new FORD oil cooler.
The deal with Tousley is that they sell FORD factory parts at 10% over dealer cost. Bookmark their site, and write down the number (800)328-9552. That number doesn't get you an operator, it is the parts department.
The link in my signature "step by step" has the parts numbers and links for other parts you need and should consider replacing at the same time.

Lastly, I'm not planning on doing the true EGR Delete...My diesel shop will take mine and tig weld it shut on each end and reinstall it...They showed me one and it looked pretty nice as well as a lot cheaper than the EGR Delete Kit.
Whatever stops the soot from clogging up the intake is a good thing.

What performance/fuel mileage etc. will, if any, be gained by doing the EGR delete and will the truck be the tough durable truck it is supposed to be or should I simply sell it? I really like the truck and would like to keep it for a while.
You will realize 0 performance enhancement and 0 extra fuel mileage (you may actually lose some fuel mileage). You will gain a cleaner air intake charge to your engine and not have to worry about the soot build up in your intake manifold. You should end up with a great, reliable, fun-to-drive truck. Keep it. I think that this body style is the best ever put out by FORD.

Basically I want to only do this once and as cost effective as I can....This crap is getting expensive...Especially with the wife:)

Your thoughts?
To "do it once, and do it right and never worry about it" you would have to install the BPD oil cooler system instead of a stock oil cooler. Remember that the definition of insanity is repeating an act expecting a different outcome. You are putting the same stock oil cooler back in your engine. It will eventually (someday) plug up again and need to be replaced. It is just the initial cash outlay that is the difference.

To keep your expenses down, I would keep both the wife and the truck. Trust me when I tell you that it is cheaper to keep the wife than it is to get rid of her.:hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey NYC 350,....

Thanks for your help on my issues at hand. I'm finally about ready to replace the oil cooler and do the EGR delete. But I have one last question on the coolant I should use...as I'm getting conflicting info on what type to use from both this site, other sites and repair shops.

This one, https://www.khlubes.com/shell-rotellareg-extended-life-coolantantifreeze-galcase-p-188.html

is the Shell Rotella ELC Extended Life Coolant and appears to meet all of the requirements you stated previously, (IE: the CAT EC-1 rating plus the TMC RP 329 and RP 338 listings. The Coolant contains no silicates, borate, nitrate or phosphate and requires no traditional SCA additions).

Will this one work or will I get leaking gaskets down the road if I use it???

Let me know when you can please.

Thanks,
Matt Roberts
 

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NYC F-350 i think to date in my years of doing these ive done 1 egr cooler on a 03 round style, and it failed just where pipe is welded to cooler.
 

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There have been a few 03 EGR cooler failures on this forum in just the last few weeks.
I did say that they do not fail as often as the square style, and suggested an egr cooler delete.
I give advice the same as if I was in their situation. If I had skipped replacing it, and it failed a few weeks later, I would be pretty pissed about it. Would you suggest taking the chance of a future failure?
 

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There have been a few 03 EGR cooler failures on this forum in just the last few weeks.
I did say that they do not fail as often as the square style, and suggested an egr cooler delete.
I give advice the same as if I was in their situation. If I had skipped replacing it, and it failed a few weeks later, I would be pretty pissed about it. Would you suggest taking the chance of a future failure?
no no no please don't think i was critical of you i was agreeing with you in the fact that they don't fail as much. and yes if he goes to the trouble of replacing the oil cooler you should and must replace egr cooler you would be a fool not too! i read all your post and respect you and think your time is invaluable on here.
 

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Ahhh...the issue with the typewritten word versus listening to the voice. Sometimes it is harder to get your point across and the instance for a slight misunderstanding is higher.

I didn't think you were being critical, though I did think you were saying it wasn't necessary to replace the egr cooler because of its low failure rate. That is why I posed the question whether it would be worth taking the chance. In reality, we agree on all points.
Thank you for the compliment :thumb:
 

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Ahhh...the issue with the typewritten word versus listening to the voice. Sometimes it is harder to get your point across and the instance for a slight misunderstanding is higher.

I didn't think you were being critical, though I did think you were saying it wasn't necessary to replace the egr cooler because of its low failure rate. That is why I posed the question whether it would be worth taking the chance. In reality, we agree on all points.
Thank you for the compliment :thumb:
no problem the compliment is well deserved on your end.
 
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