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I have a F350 1995 250 K . The history is minimal mechanical failure. alterator , clutch pack at 200 k. glow plugs twice in the 13 year life. recently There is a major bump when driving that feels like for a instant it is off then right back on. less that a second. It has done this 5 times in the last 300 miles. all other driving & starting is normal.It just jerks like it is off then back on. The input I have read about the cam sensor says that they will run then stop and restart after a period of time. Any thoughts on this is appreciated
Tom
 

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try and get it hooked up to a scanner, and read for codes. the check eng light does not have to be on to have codes stored.

when your driving it, and the symptom happens, does the tack drop quickly?
 

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It happens so fast and I haven't looked to the tach but I will. I am thinking of replacinf the cam sensor just because. most people I HAVE READ AND TALKED TO SAID TO KEEP A SPARE> AND ONE GUY SAID TO REPLACE IT BECAUSE I HADN"T YET? I HAVE A PLACE I CAN GET IT READ> THANKS
 

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Mine is doing the same thing and actually completely stalled on me the other day and I have to pull over to restart it. I replaced the cam sensor lover a year ago with the new model ones and it was good up to a couple months ago. I never had any probs before now. It also seems that the problem is exaggerated with low rpms and bumpy conditions. I came off a curb the other day and it just died on me as soon as the tire hit the pavement. kinda ironic for an "off road" vehicle. I bought two sensors and now I cant find my spare to see if the "new" sensor is bad. Could it be anything else with the symptoms I have explained? thanks.
 

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cam sensor

The condition is pointing more and more to connection and harness condition?I moved the harness next to the valve cover connection and it smoothed out. Go figure
 

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Thanks for the reply, after I posted that I did some searching on the forum and found out what you said, it is probably a short in the harness somewhere. I'm gonna mess with it this weekend. Thanks again.
 

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2000 power stroke

I have a 2000 excursion 7.3 & it just started today doing the same, it just died on the road, pulled over & it restarted to get home then when i went to town & it died again & if it started it only ran about 1 minute then it seems like someone turns the key off, i have also heard the cam sensor is most likely the problem, any more advise?
 

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help!!!!!

went to help a buddy do some plumbing and my truck lost all power like its running on a couple cyls. the check engine light came on. how do you retrieve the codes from the dash?
 

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codes must be pulled with a scanner.
 

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I have a 99 7.3 in 550. Same thing happening to me only when it rains. Like I ran over a brick. My mechanic says I'm nuts Truck runs perfect until run into rain storm. Run out of rain and time to dry out runs fine. I think it has something to do with wiring somewhere low on the truck. Even happens with misty rain on the road after rain fall. He has not been able to pull a code.
Now the other day started just fine and ran for about two minutes and just shut off and can not get started. I want to test cam sensor but do not know what Ohm value it should be.
 

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hmm. 550 you say?
pull the fuel filter and see that the bowl is filling up
KOEO, can you hear the pump priming?
 

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That is the first thing that I thought of. Fuel filter bowl is full. does this engine have a mechanical fuel pump? I have not heard an electric pump"noise" from the tank area. From reading other posts I am leaning toward low pressure oil pump providing oil for the high pressure pump but do not know how/where/what location to check it. Or some other reason for oil pressure to bleed off. Have had to rev engine slightly at startup in the past to get oil pressure up on gage to keep engine running after extended time of sitting. If I did not do thisthe engine would die and I would have to crank a lot to get engine to start. Cam sensor has not been replaced although I have received recall notices for it, tach moves when trying to start.
 

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ok, well if the bowl is filling up it's not likely an issue with the pump or obstruction.
if the oil gauge is tough to rise, it could be the LPOP, or a leak in the HPO system.
remove the oil pressure sender from the top of the oil reservoir at the front of the motor. see if it's full. should be filled roughly .5" from the top.
you can take a base oil pressure reading off that port
 

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Cam sensor recall

Call your dealer an give them your vin because on my 2000 7.3 they had a recall on the cam sensor and something to do with cruise control. It's a free fix if your year model is covered.
 

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It is covered but I have to get it there first. I still have not had the time to check or find the sensor that needs removed to check the oil level at that point. If some one can point me in the general direction of where in the engine compartment is it is I would appreciate it
 

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It is covered but I have to get it there first. I still have not had the time to check or find the sensor that needs removed to check the oil level at that point. If some one can point me in the general direction of where in the engine compartment is it is I would appreciate it
I wouldn't remove any sensor (why take the chance of it being damaged) when there's a plug for just that purpose. Look in the lower right of the pic for what's labeled "HPOP Plug". You can dip an Allen Wrench (or something like that) into the hole, there should be oil near the top (within 1/2 - 1").
 

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Thanks for the picture. Just went out and took out plug and can not reach oil with the allen that I took plug out with. Can I "prime" this to get it to run/start? Is there some sort of check valve that is stuck or do I have to replace a pump and if so which pump?
Low pressure I presume. How hard job is it. Haven't messes much with these new engines, I am still from the 390-460 289 days that I could rebuild blind folded.
 

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Yes, on both your reasoning ;)

If you don't get any oil there, and try something longer maybe too, you can refill that res through the hole. There IS a check valve that could have failed but, once started the LPOP puts-out much more than the HPOP can use so, it'll run forever ('till ya get it fixed) if that's your only problem.

The LPOP could also be the fault and it's in the front of the motor and not a "bad job" to do...
 

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NoRalPh,

Just to help out a little, if you prime the hpop resivoir and it starts then quits shortly and you check the resivoir and no oil is there, then the lpop would be the problem. Is this true? Makes sence to me.
 
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