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Good start to the project!
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Well round one, two, three and four went to the turbo. :(

I sprayed the crap out of it with Deep Creep and then I twisted, turned, pried, pulled and hit it with no effect. I then proceeded to talk very nicely to it, no go, I swore at it, no go, I swore at everything that is in the way, no go, I stopped swearing and sat in silence giving it a glare that would make any man or beast turn and run... it still did not move. Next I resprayed and started at the beginning... three more times... it's still in there! All I can do now is laugh! :hehe: :( :hehe:

The problem I'm having is with the exhaust, both in and out of the turbo. I can't get either side to release from the turbo. The mounting bolts were easy, the one in the back was the easiest! :nod: Next I'm going to bolt the turbo back up and retry my removal routine again. It'll be two days from now though as I need to go to work. I'm planning on spraying the Creep in there after work both days, maybe when I get back to it they will already be off and waiting for me to pull the turbo out. :dunno::rofl:

If anyone has any suggestions I can add to the above routine please let me know!
Maybe I can get some pics up tomorrow of the work that I accomplished in between round with the turbo, not tonight though I'm tired.

Edit: The first two round were with the turbo mounting bolts in, the last two were with them out. The header to Y-pipe bolts are loosened.
 

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Just a suggestion to keep at it. Some of those bolts are stubborn and will give you grief. I've spent a bunch of time cursing at my truck, too! Just know that you aren't alone in this process. I don't have any advice to offer other than to keep at it. :thumb:
 

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Loosen the clamp all the way, even remove that "t" bolt. Get a regular screwdriver, insert the blade into the clamp and whack the end of it with a hammer.
Just be careful with that because you can deform the clamp so it isn't reusable. Probably not a big deal since you can always get another from the dealership.
 

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Hit the clamp itself with a small hammer. The vibrations will help jostle the clamp. Then pry the V part of the clamp up and off the flange. This usually works for me, along with a healthy dose of PB Blaster :thumb:

If none of this works, most times if you talk dirty to it, it'll break free, and you'll have it in the palm of your hand :sly:
 

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I know I wrestled with the y-pipe clamp, stood back and did the same. No swear word would release it, no special dance facing any direction on the horizon worked either.
A friend of mine dropped by while I was contemplating the finer things in life, grabbed a screwdriver an popped it off with a quick whack of the hammer. That guy has trouble changing a flat tire and he popped it right off. Sometimes you just over think stuff.
 

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My fancy dance and swear words were for lining the y-pipe back up with the turbo... :doh:
 

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I am also saying the ARP head studs you have the engine takin apart this is the time to do this.... Only other item I think any 6.0 should have is a coolant filter good luck... Get R Done
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Well, I've done a lot of swearing dancing and contemplating on this turbo. I have not however tried a screwdriver. Can one of you please give me a little insight as to how the parts sit and what comes loose of off what? It looks like the pipes mate over a flange onthe turbo and the clamps are on overtop of that. Is there something more in the way these clamps work or would that be overthinking things? I only ask because I'm very much of a 'work smarter not harder' kind of guy. Brute force has it's place but I find it usually makes more work when I try to use it.
 

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Correct. It's a flange type setup, but the part the gets stuck is the little 'fitting' molded into the y-pipe flange that seats inside the turbo flange. That may not make sense, but it will when you get it apart. If you have the y-pipe connections loose at the manifold and the up pipe, you just need to break that rusted connection.

It's arid here in CO, but I'm guessing by the pics you posted, its humid there in Canada, making for more rust and PITA to remove metal to metal connections :dunno:
 

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They are called v-band clamps and sometimes get jammed when folks overtighten them or just due to the heating and cooling cycles that the exhaust components go through. Use a screwdriver (I used a marlinspike) to get in there and pry the clamp away from the flange. It's much easier when you completely remove the nut holding it together. Here's a pic to help you visualize.

 
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Discussion Starter #54
Pics are great, having a picture of how it works to hold the pieces together gives me a better idea of what has to happen to get those same pieces apart. All of it is all easier to understand when it's apart. :nod: I'll be back at it on Thursday and I'm confident I'll get the turbo out. After that the intake comes out and the heart is exposed! :woot:

On a side note I'm now looking for all the info I can get on the glow plug harness and o-rings and will also be searching for the part number for the fuel line I kinked.
As long as it's slow, being at work is a good thing, I can get my research done and not be want to be outside working on the truck. :hehe:
 

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PB blaster is your friend here....

Hit it (SOAK it) a few hours before you need to work on it, and again right before you do. I used a large flat-tip screwdriver to pry mine off... It was a pain to get it back there, took a bit of prying then POP.... just poped off.

You'll get it... Just dont break/throw things, youll be ok! :rofl:
 

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Pics are great, having a picture of how it works to hold the pieces together gives me a better idea of what has to happen to get those same pieces apart. All of it is all easier to understand when it's apart. :nod: I'll be back at it on Thursday and I'm confident I'll get the turbo out. After that the intake comes out and the heart is exposed! :woot:

On a side note I'm now looking for all the info I can get on the glow plug harness and o-rings and will also be searching for the part number for the fuel line I kinked.
As long as it's slow, being at work is a good thing, I can get my research done and not be want to be outside working on the truck. :hehe:
Defnitely post up the part number to the fuel line. I did the exact same thing to mine for the passenger side. I had to drive it out of necessity, and all seems to be fine, but I still want to replace. Without going and sitting next to the parts guy, I have not been able to determine what the part number is, best description was Mike at Tousley who said it is called a fuel tube (not line), but I didn't get a number and they had none in stock.
 

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I actually have the page for the fuel lines for my truck. I had them sent to me for a related issue I was having with something in the area.
astroinhouston: The part number shown in the Ford Parts book shows the drivers side fuel line as 9L273, the passenger side as 9A274.
If you PM me your e-mail addy, I will send you a pdf file of this page.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
As you were sending the PDF I found an exploded view of the lines, banjos, washers, etc. 9L273 is the one I need and the international part # is 1837982C1.

I've found that, at least up here in Canada, the international parts are less than half the price of the Ford parts (even though the Ford parts have the international part numbers stamped on them). If they can get me the line that's the route I'll go.

Thanks again NYC and everyone else for the help. I couldn't and wouldn't be doing this if it weren't for the info and help I've received here! :thumb:
 
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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Well just a few parts updates and a question before I'm back to work on the truck tomorrow.


1. The STC fitting, I read in another post the 05 Ex doesn't have the STC fitting so doesn't need replacing. Is this true?
2. International can't get the fuel line I need, they are "Ford only" parts, so the line will end up costing $50 instead of $30. :doh: Lesson learned, proceed with caution on those lines!
3. I got an email from Gene at BPD, the system should take about 21 quarts of oil. That's about 20L so if I don't spill any I have enough... I'll get another jug. :D
4. I also went back and looked at the coolant numbers. It should hold 27.5 qts, 26L. At 60-40 I will need 15.6L of concentrate, I have 12L so I need another jug of that too. :doh:


The good news is that I won't need the stuff for a little bit. The bad news is my wife is starting to ask when I'll be done spending on the truck. I guess a spring swap will have to wait! :dunno::D
 
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