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I've been searching for at least an hour for the reference I used last time I changed the ATF, to no avail. What are the pan bolt torque and filter housing torque. Thanks.
 

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Not sure - I think I used the German torque the last time I did it. It's a rubber gasket, so you don't have to monkey-man tighten them. Make sure you go evenly around the first time and just get them finger tight. Then do it all again in a star pattern.

I know i'm no help, so hopefully someone on here can chime in with a spec for ya. When it doubt, turn it till it squeaks, then go 1/4 turn more. (kidding...KINDA :D )

-jokester
 
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The OEM reusable gasket has inserts at the bolt holes so the possibility of crushing the gasket is eliminated ( only gasket worth using )

I don't know how you can get a tq wrench on the back bolts under the cross member ?

i have always done the "tight is right to tight is broken" method on those
 

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...

I don't know how you can get a tq wrench on the back bolts under the cross member ?

i have always done the "tight is right to tight is broken" method on those
I used a universal joint. I expect that it's not as accurate as straight down, but I held it as straight as possible and hoped for the best. I wasn't leaking anywhere along that gasket and I didn't lose any of the bolts.
 

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I don't remember where I had found this, but it was what I considered a very reliable source:
Transmission pan bolt torque spec: 10-12 ft-lbs
I have done several tranny fluid changes without issues using this spec.
 
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