Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I want to apologize ahead of time because I am going to try to give as much info as possible so if this gets lengthy I will try to makes this easy to read.

The Truck;
2005 Ford F350, 4x4 DRW, 6.0, 162.435 miles

APR Heads 2016
Oil Cooler replaced with OEM 2016
EGR Delete with puck 2015
Replaced Head gaskets with OEM gaskets 2016
TDecked Heads 2016
Turbo Cleaned and seals replaced Dec 2017
Radiator replaced 2017
Radiator fluied replaced with G05
Upper and Lower Radiator hose 2017
Degas Bottle replaced 2017
Lower heater hose and Y replaced 2017
CAC cold side replaced with metal and OEM boots 2017
4 Injectors replaced 2017
Reman Alternator replaced 2017
Reman Starter Replaced 2018
VSS (Rear Hub) Replaced 2017
ABS Control Mod Replaced with used 2017
Tie Rod ends Replaced 2015
Glow Plug Control Mod Replace 2018

Scanning Tools;

Auto Engenuity (but i do not have the current OBD2 and some test wont work. But still have KOEO and so on.

STC Limewire TS,

Pocket OBD readerb from walmart

Boost leak tester


The Problem;

We got suck in Tupalo, MS because he needed heart surgery. We pull a 13,000 lbs RV. On one of the days driving to go see him I noticed loss of power, low boost, and blue smoke. No MIL the or now. I did not have time to deal with it with my dad recovering. and my Laptop was acting up at the time so no AE and I did not own the the tuner yet and no codes came up on the pocket scanner.

We drove to home with the trailer and for the most part the truck did well accept for the 785 line of blue smoke from MS to FL. LOL just kidding, it only smoked on hills and and hard acceleration and if I let of the gas for a sec it will shift and smoke goes away. It did well on fuel to my surprised.

So I did as much research as I could on site like this and others and I had convinced my self that I had a boost leak. So I order the boost leak tester and the tuner.

When testers came in I did a leak test by potting 25psi in the system and covered every part of the CAC and turbo and cooler and so on with soapy water. I also listened with a heater hoes. The psi fully dissipated between 30 and 45 sec.
and no bubbles and the only leaking air I can hear is coming from what seems to be inside the turbo (is that normal?) so I soaked the turbo with tons of soapy water (Hindsight maybe not such a good idea) and spent 20 minutes refilling and trying to find it on the turbo and I found nothing.

So I thought maybe exhaust leak being I had a mechanic take it out and clean it and replace the seals. Maybe he did not seed it right. I checked to see if the Y Pipe for leaks and if it was seated right and I also hooked a strap and ratcheted it in as much as I could. But there is no soot anywere.

I deleted the KAM and that help with the black smoke and pluse I loaded the performance tune in to help with power a little.

Ran a Key On Eng Off test and pulled;

P0299 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition

P1400 Differerital Pressure Feedback EGR Circut Low Input (is that because of the EGR delete. I have EGR delete off on the tune)

DTC;

P2263 Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost System Performerance

P0671 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit
P0600 Serial Communications Link
and that sucks because I just replaced the GPCM because the mechanic told me it was bad. I am going to do an amp draw tomorrow and try to see if it is the harness. I need to fool it to think it is a cold start but I don't know how.

P1876 Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-up Solenoid Circuit Failure.

I will worry about these later but if anyone has any input it is welcome.

Driving with PID:

RPM;...........................1443.00
VGTDC %;..................85.00 (and stays there)
ICP PSI;......................956.28
ICP V;.........................1.23 (seems low)
IPR %;........................35.55
MAF lb;........................0.06
EBP PSI;......................15.70
MAP PSI;.....................14.90
EBP PSI Desired;...........9.61

Screen shots below.

I am going to try to pull of the ICP, MAP, IPR and the EBP tomorrow and clean them and see if that helps. I will fallow this trough to the end and updated everything on here to help anyone with the same problem.

Question

1. Does the boost leave the system that fast and is it normal to hear it escaping from the turbo?
2. Do the PIDS look normal or does it look like a sensor out of wack
3. The turbo never leaves 85% and is stuck open no matter the speed. Does that mean they are stuck open even though they were just pulled and cleaned 3 months ago?
4. Any suggestions on test or what to do.
5. Does anyone know how to use actuators in AE or know good training resources for the it.


Love this site and thank you guys for any and all your help.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,815 Posts
A couple of things. You mentioned blue smoke one time and black smoke another. Which is it or are you getting both and if so, what are the conditions of each. VGT% is a commanded value and not an actual measured one. With EBP at 15 psi that's probably about what the PCM would command for the VGT. The ICP does look a little low, but if you are tuned it is probably a false reading. Besides, you did not give any info on the speed you were driving or what the load might have been. RPM at 1440 indicates you probably weren't going very fast or had a significant load on the engine.

The EGR code is from the delete, even if it's "turned off" in the tune. It won't set a CEL though.
The turbo codes are because you are having boost issues.
The P0600 code may be the GPCM or harness to it, but it could be a different module altogether. Not really sure on that one.
The transfer case codes are often false readings. If 4wd works, I wouldn't worry about those.

The first thing I would do is pull the EBP sensor and tube and clean or replace them. Make sure the connection on the manifold is also cleaned out.
Your boost leak drawdown is about what I get on a fully connected system. You are going to get some leakage by the rings and whatnot. You should also check the MAP hose for any cracks or splits and the nipple to make sure it's not plugged with gunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
A couple of things. You mentioned blue smoke one time and black smoke another. Which is it or are you getting both and if so, what are the conditions of each. VGT% is a commanded value and not an actual measured one. With EBP at 15 psi that's probably about what the PCM would command for the VGT. The ICP does look a little low, but if you are tuned it is
probably a false reading. Besides, you did not give any info on the speed you were driving or what the load might have been. RPM at 1440 indicates you probably weren't going very fast or had a significant load on the engine.

The EGR code is from the delete, even if it's "turned off" in the tune. It won't set a CEL though.
The turbo codes are because you are having boost issues.
The P0600 code may be the GPCM or harness to it, but it could be a different module altogether. Not really sure on that one.
The transfer case codes are often false readings. If 4wd works, I wouldn't worry about those.

The first thing I would do is pull the EBP sensor and tube and clean or replace them. Make sure the connection on the manifold is also cleaned out.
Your boost leak drawdown is about what I get on a fully connected system. You are going to get some leakage by the rings and whatnot. You should also check the MAP hose for any cracks or splits and the nipple to make sure it's not plugged with gunk.


I want to thank you for the advice. I took off both the MAP and the EBP and cleaned them. The MAP broke while cleaning so I replaced it. But neither of them were clogged. I ordered a new EBP sensor and tube just to be safe. The truck is still commanding the VGTDC at 85 for most of the time.

I said blue smoke because I read to many post that made me think the black was blue but it is BLACK as night.

I am trying to upload a video from my phone and having difficulty but here is an idle pic of some PIDs
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,815 Posts
I completely missed your MAF number before. That's not right either. Make sure the connector is plugged in good. It may need cleaning or possibly replacing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Okay, so I have replaced the EBP sensor and tube, checked voltage and cabes and all is in specs.

I don't know why I had the MAF sensor pulled up because I do not believe I have one. I think this is one of the years the put a IAT2 in it's place. But I pulled it out and cleaning it and it looked fine. Have not checked the sensors out.

I took a stethoscope with a metal rod at the end of it and listened to the VTC solenoid as I turn it open and closed in AE and I could hear it working. But even if it was not way is the PCM commanding it 85.

I have placed the truck back to stock tune however, I wounder if the people purchased the truck from may have had a tune in it and took the tuner.

Here is a video of me driving I hope this helps and bit. But I might just pull the turbo out again and check it. I really don't want to.

Should I do something with the ICP sensor?

https://youtu.be/gjCEMCy3bkY
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,731 Posts

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,111 Posts
When the turbo is pulled to be cleaned, it is taken apart with a hammer. Perhaps it was not put together correctly. I have not done a pressure check, but other than that band being loose, I can't think where air could be coming from that, unless the air pressure attachment itself was leaking. I don't know, the part that rotates with the exhaust could be leaking between the clean air coming into the engine and the exhaust that drives it. I have wondered when this test is done if the position of the valves and pistons would allow the air to escape out the exhaust pipe, so maybe the noise is natural, although this is not in the video.



When the turbo has been taken apart, its possible to not index it correctly when putting it together, and that would lead to low power.

Also, where did you get this pressure testing kit for the turbo?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
When the turbo has been taken apart, its possible to not index it correctly when putting it together, and that would lead to low power.

Also, where did you get this pressure testing kit for the turbo?
I hope not. It worked fine for a while after the ford mechanic cleaned it looks, replaced the seals, and put it back in. Why one day would it just start with travel or heavy loads.

I bought a torque on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/282623829491
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
It sounds like the turbo vanes are stuck or the actuator is not functioning properly, or the unison ring is worn out and not moving the vanes when commanded.
Jerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,111 Posts
I agree that the turbo should come off, be taken apart, index checked, and unison ring checked. For me that is an all day job from popping the hood to shutting the hood. It's probably 1 shop hour.

Could be the actuator and you could try to swap a spare if you have it, but they are pricey to just throw at it.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top