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I just found a simple fix for the overhead computer, AKA trip computer for my 2001 F350. The usename Mischa posted this easy fix to remedy the blank/non working overhead computer that Ford charges 356.00 for. This fix took me 15 minutes and it works better now that I hav ever seen it. Here it is:

Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck. Click on the red links for detailed photos.

First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.

Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment . Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.

Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.

Next, you will see the black inner shell . First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).

Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).

Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.

Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!

Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from prior bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.
 

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Thanks for the info!! Sure it will come in handy for someone!!:thumb: Not to hijack, but do ya have a fix for an o/h computer that works properly, EXCEPT for the miles to go part. It always starts around 900 or so and counts down. I cant reset, or I dont know how, but have read all I can and still cant get this part to work. Thanks again!!
 

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errr... mmm... i checked your gallery. didn't see anything. still working on those pics?

i've wanted to get an overhead console for a 2004 and put it into my truck. but I dunno about all the wiring. we'll see.
 

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wow thanks for the info. i was getting ready to replace mine. i cant beleive ford tries to steal you for 356 on that thing. when they told me that i laughed and said its not the important.
 

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Thanks for the info. Learn something new everyday!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry about the gallery. As I mentioned this fix was posted elsewhere. You dont really need the pictures. When you go to solder just remember that the chips that are most often loose and need re-soldering are the ones BEHIND the display. The are only about 1/8" x 1/4" and the are clearly labled on top pf them either 620 or 680.
 

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Thanks for posting this up.

Nate, I spoke to a Ford parts dealer and his cost for the overhead console was pretty hefty, but I'm not sure why. Oh and while there were a few folks that were successful in installing these that weren't factory equipped, I was warned that the wiring and sensors and having it programmed from Ford weren't for the faint of heart. Just a thought.
 

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I'm glad i found this info mines been giving me trouble but i would usually just hit it and it would come on. but now i can really try and fix it the right way.
 

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i just took mine apart today after reading this post. been driving without it working for the past 3 years, and one of the chips that say 680 was just barly hangin there on one side of it. pushed it back in put it together and it works fine now. im happy now.
 

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hell ya found my 680 was broken off
 

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hell ya it works
 

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does this correct the compas issue as well? my compas will stay blank and say cal underneath it. i calibrate it and the next day it does the same thing
 

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Mine still works ; but atleast I found out how to remove it. For my cab light install project, THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just thought that I would mention this. When you take your overhead computer down to re-solder a loose chip, it is very worthwhile to go ahead and put a little solder on all of the 680 and 620 chip ends. If you don't, you will be probably having the same problem later on.
 

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After seeing inside I can't believe Ford charges $185 for an o/h unit!
 

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tell me about it
 

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Works but still too dim for old eyes

Excellent fix! Wish my fingers were a little smaller but it works like a champ now! I'd like to keep the display lit to full brightness.....Anyone know which harness "wire to cut" to keep the display from dimming when the headlights are turned on?
 

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Thanks for the info!! Sure it will come in handy for someone!!:thumb: Not to hijack, but do ya have a fix for an o/h computer that works properly, EXCEPT for the miles to go part. It always starts around 900 or so and counts down. I cant reset, or I dont know how, but have read all I can and still cant get this part to work. Thanks again!!
Mine is the same way. IT IS SO ANNOYING. It depends on wether I park on ahill or flat ground. Sometimes my low fuel light comes on and I check it and it says like 250 miles to empty and it starts counting down like 4-5 miles every 1/2 mile I drive, like it's eventually going to coorect itself and be right on at 0.
If I park facing downhill, just the opposite. It will show 20 miles to empty when I have a 1/2 tank left and the number wont change, it stays at 20. I can't stand it. I would love to know how to fix this.

sorry for the :hijack:
 
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