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Discussion Starter #1
So this weekend is the first time I actually put some "weight" behind the F250. I bought a 38x8.5, 3 axle, gooseneck enclosed car trailer thats decked out with a winch, diamond plate floors, awning, generator, living area not fully but has cooking stuff, bed, coffee pot, microwave, sink, etc. It has everything but A/C which will be added on soon.

As soon as I hooked it up I knew it was a load, lol. The most I have ever towed before this was a 18' flat trailer with my Mustang on it, and I could beg the EGT's with just that. Towing the enclosed at 70-75mph on flat ground I am seeing 800-1000 regularly, when I hit any kind of hill or grade it will hit the 1200-1250 range and I have to adjust the throttle to make sure we are in a safe range. The EGT probe is directly across from an exhaust port so I am 99% sure I am seeing the hottest of the hot when it comes down too it.

So that brings me to the title of the thread. I ordered and going to try the CX Racing intercooler kit. I seen on here where one other member had it on his truck with good success, so I am going to just on the band wagon. I hope to be able to load this trailer down with 2 cars and a load of tools, etc and be able to tow in a safe EGT range.

Here is a pic of the truck and trailer.

truck and trailer by Mototime2000, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #2
BTW, all the signage and decals are in the process of being removed. Don't hate on me, the PO was a bowtie guy.
 

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holy Sh!t balls batman thats a slick set up.

let me know how it works. ive been looking at the same set up. ill be hauling around 37 feet of loaded travel trailer with mine soon. i hear the install is pretty easy other than some slight trimming. good luck
 

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Sorry, can't comment on the CX intercooler but if the SCT off road tune is still in there this might be the whole issue. You need tow tunes. Your probe is in the ideal position that most of us would love to have our in. I have a very similar trailer for my race cars and yes it is heavy loaded and a couple cars in it (by the way it's for sale if anyone is interested reading this). Safe range is anything below 1100* constant, 1250* momentarily. No matter what tunes your running it is better to get tunes made/adjusted for the added IC as you will notice turbo lag with all the extra space that it (the turbo) needs to fill before the air gets into the heads.

I don't know how experienced you are towing a trailer so I'll post this anyway if you are not:

Keep in the trailer a long breaker bar, correct socket for the lugs, correct socket for the gooseneck bolts (to adjust ride angle, this is really important for how the brakes will operate, your current rake is not recommended), and a set of Trailer Aids to help in case of a flat. These tools are to remain in the trailer at all times and not used for anything but working on the trailer. The one time you think "there's one in the trailer and I'll get that one instead" is the time you forget to put that tool back and will need it down the road. Also, do it now (and each time you remove the lugs) paint the lug studs with a thin coat of Anti-Seize. If you are on the lazy side drill and tap the trailer axle hubs for a zerk fitting and hit them with grease EVERY pull. When you stop during your trip put the back of your hand on the hub covers, they should be a little warm if the bearings are ok and hot if they are not. Check lug tightness constantly as you pull. Have the brakes and bearings checked/serviced every year.

Just saying (I break this rule too), even on flat ground it is not safe to run a trailer this big that fast down the road for your trans and other drivers. An unexpected gust of wind can push you across the highway real fast.

Happy tugging!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry, can't comment on the CX intercooler but if the SCT off road tune is still in there this might be the whole issue. You need tow tunes. Your probe is in the ideal position that most of us would love to have our in. I have a very similar trailer for my race cars and yes it is heavy loaded and a couple cars in it (by the way it's for sale if anyone is interested reading this). Safe range is anything below 1100* constant, 1250* momentarily. No matter what tunes your running it is better to get tunes made/adjusted for the added IC as you will notice turbo lag with all the extra space that it (the turbo) needs to fill before the air gets into the heads.

I don't know how experienced you are towing a trailer so I'll post this anyway if you are not:

Keep in the trailer a long breaker bar, correct socket for the lugs, correct socket for the gooseneck bolts (to adjust ride angle, this is really important for how the brakes will operate, your current rake is not recommended), and a set of Trailer Aids to help in case of a flat. These tools are to remain in the trailer at all times and not used for anything but working on the trailer. The one time you think "there's one in the trailer and I'll get that one instead" is the time you forget to put that tool back and will need it down the road. Also, do it now (and each time you remove the lugs) paint the lug studs with a thin coat of Anti-Seize. If you are on the lazy side drill and tap the trailer axle hubs for a zerk fitting and hit them with grease EVERY pull. When you stop during your trip put the back of your hand on the hub covers, they should be a little warm if the bearings are ok and hot if they are not. Check lug tightness constantly as you pull. Have the brakes and bearings checked/serviced every year.

Just saying (I break this rule too), even on flat ground it is not safe to run a trailer this big that fast down the road for your trans and other drivers. An unexpected gust of wind can push you across the highway real fast.

Happy tugging!
SCT tuner is long gone, I have an Edge on Tow when the trailer is hooked up and I am currently looking into doing my own custom tuning. I tune my 2 race cars, so I think I can get the diesels down.

I normally keep a good bit of tools with me at the track. Impact gun, jacks, etc. So normally I have all the tools I need but I am going to get one of those tire changing ramps for good measure.

The highway I was on at the time, if you don't run 70+ your going to get run the fugg over by anything from a 18 wheeler to a smart car, lol. I was still falling back. I will say that the gooseneck is the nicest pulling trailer I have ever towed. Blows my bumper pull 18ft flat trailer out of the water.
 

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Sooooo much smoother with a GN but backing up takes more space compared to a bumper pull when reverse steering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That and its takes a little getting used to when you take corners for the first time. I took out 3-4 ditches driving it like a bumper pull.
 

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awesome trailer! what race cars do you own?
 

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Delivers Pizzas For Fun!
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Umm... u may wana ditch that edge too..... and get some real custom tunes. Edge tunes run hot from what i know about other people having them.

As for the crx cooler.. the other member loved it and said it was a top notch cooler. There are 2 types of intercoolers, bar and fin or plate and tube. I dont remember which cools better but that kit was the better one.

Nice trailer BTW.
 

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Umm... u may wana ditch that edge too..... and get some real custom tunes. Edge tunes run hot from what i know about other people having them.

As for the crx cooler.. the other member loved it and said it was a top notch cooler. There are 2 types of intercoolers, bar and fin or plate and tube. I dont remember which cools better but that kit was the better one.

Nice trailer BTW.
bar and plate is better
 

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Diesel Freak
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Looks like a well put together kit I think the tank is kinda small looking and might need some heat wrap and CCV mod so you don't dump oil vapor in your shiny new IC
 

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even tho the coller may appear smaller, its MUCH thicker, sooo it still cools the same if not maby better, but the temp drops that the other guy repoted were about equal to a SD intercooler install
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I plan on a few more Mods and the CCV might be one if I can find a clean way to do it. The Edge is going to stay for the time being. I know they have a bad rap in the auto community, but being I have a ZF truck I am free from those issues. I understand the issues with heat, but I am going to see what an intercooler will do for me and go from there.

My 2 cars are a 1991 Mustang SSP Coupe. 347, 5 speed manual, 4.10's, slicks. The other car is a 1993 Mustang Coupe, Ex 2.3L, now a 306, 76mm turbo, 4R70W, 3.73's for now and hopefully some single digit quarter mile times in the future. The turbo car is non intercooled and getting Meth Injection along with E85 to help the intake cooling.
 

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Diesel Freak
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He's probably worried about a dripping problem or funny smell....
 

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Well, your either doing it or not :D My truck doesn't drip but it does haze for several minutes after getting off the freeway.
 

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Diesel Freak
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Well, your either doing it or not :D My truck doesn't drip but it does haze for several minutes after getting off the freeway.
Well it's either that or a blue haze coming out the exhaust
 

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^True. OP, the CCV is recirculating dead air into the motor and using it to try and control emissions out the tail. removing the CCV from the intake track and plugging/replacing the tube will give your truck more clean air to breath.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
^True. OP, the CCV is recirculating dead air into the motor and using it to try and control emissions out the tail. removing the CCV from the intake track and plugging/replacing the tube will give your truck more clean air to breath.
The CCV actually sucks blow by and oil into the engine to burn. I did a CCV down tube(RDT, Road Draft Tube) on my IDI and it dripped oil and smoked. Not my style when pulling a big *** enclosed. If I recirc it to the down pipe it might smoke from the tail pipe a little more, but atleast not throwing oil onto my trailer. I have debated about a catch can that I can drain from time to time and that would be a lot cleaner than just a dump tube or a exhaust burner style.
 

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^yes, blow-by, spent air.
 
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