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Discussion Starter #1
I need some coolant to top off my 2013. My local Ford dealer, where I've bought Orange from before, says it's discontinued and that the Yellow coolant is compatible with Orange, and that's what they sell for 6.7s now. Guess I'll just mix in some yellow? Or should I hunt down some Orange on the web and get it shipped?

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Had to do the same thing a few weeks ago. I went with the dealers advice and added the yellow to the orange already in my truck. So far so good.


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I have been running Zerex dexcool in mine for years now and no problems...Allegedly ford orange is just dexcool.
 

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I need some coolant to top off my 2013. My local Ford dealer, where I've bought Orange from before, says it's discontinued and that the Yellow coolant is compatible with Orange, and that's what they sell for 6.7s now. Guess I'll just mix in some yellow? Or should I hunt down some Orange on the web and get it shipped?

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Yellow is the new orange, you'll be fine as long as you got yellow and not gold because that would be all types of bad
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I topped it off with the yellow. Fortunately I already had some from my wife's 2018 Expedition.

Thinking down the road, when I reach 100k I plan to do a coolant drain/refill. I wonder if I'll still have to do the coolant test strips every 15k like the orange requires?

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Based on my notes below for the orange coolant I think we will still need the first test and possibly the second test depending on what the yellow coolant uses as its corrosion inhibitor.

Orange Coolant Notes:
There are two test strips that you use. The first test strip checks for:

1st. Nitrite Contamination. Previous versions of Ford Coolant all were Nitrite Based. So the test strips were looking to make sure you had enough Nitrite in your coolant. The Specialty Orange coolant in the 6.7L is one of the First Ford Coolants that has NO NITRITES. So we are looking for just opposite of what we looked for in previous coolant test. Same test strip, just different results. We want to make sure that no nitrites were added. This typically happens when somebody adds the WRONG coolant to your system. If nothing has been added to your coolant systems, the chances of testing positive for Nitrites is almost non-existant.

2nd. Check for percent Glycol for Freeze point protection. The coolant when new will protect down to -50°C. Unless the coolant is old or has been diluted, This should not be a problem

3rd. Check for Coolant Reserve Alkalinity


The second test strip is used for the 4th test. This is a new test strip not used on previous coolants.

4th Check the Corrosion Inhibitor ( Contamination ) Level.

The Specialty Orange coolant uses Carboxylates as the main corrosion inhibitor. The carboxylates slowly coat the metal of the engine block and provide a protective coating that inhibits corrosion of the block. Some of the information I've read indicates this takes 3-5 weeks to happen. Dumping in a bottle of Coolant Revitalizer does not immediately fix this. It's takes the 3-5 weeks for the revitalizer to circulate enough to provide the added coating. The revitalizer (Motorcraft VC-12) can be added twice during the coolants life.
 
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