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finally going to just suck it up and pull the heads on my 2003 6.0. any advive out there for problems you didn't expect? i am also installing a bullet proof diesel air to oil cooler system, ARP studs, and BPD egr cooler. any advise from anyone who has done this would be great!!!

Thanks

Ben.
 

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My best advice is if you are doing cab on especially have some help (thoes heads are heavy) your back will

thank you. Rent you one of those engine cranes if you do not own one.

You will run into the problem of the rear 2 head bolts not haveing enough room to come out or go back in to

clear the firewall. There are 2 basic methods to handle this.

1. measure the depth of the head unscrew the 2 bolts and lift them up untill you clear the bottom of the head

[allow a lil extra] and secure the bolt so it can't drop down. What you secure with doesn't really matter as

long as it holds it in place but a small zip tie works pretty good. This will keep the bolts from catching on

anything especially the gasket. Comeing out that isn't that big a deal but going back in you don't want those

bolts damageing the new head gaskets.
2. Raise the bolts untill they touch the fire wall, mark the location with a sharpie/marks-a lot and with a BFH

dent the firewall 3/8 to 1/2 in deep and remove the bolts.(not recomended if it's not your truck)

Keep your parts in order and be carefull dropping anything in the engine. You will want to keep your push rods

in order a cardboard box works well for this, poke or drill 2 rows of holes to match the number of push rods

label the rows left and right faceing the motor and front and rear so you don't mix them up. They wear

differently so you want to put them back in the right order. Now some folks say with hydraulic lifters this

isn't necessary but I am old school and still believe in it. [better safe than sorry].

This is critical take your heads to a automotive machine shop and have them checked for flatness and milled if

necessary. Make shure they are familiar with the 6.0 if they say they want to take 10 thousandths off RUN. Ford

specs is a max of 8. NOTE: Most machine shops require the heads to be stripped of excess components be shure

you keep them in order. Take a few pictures so you remember where everything goes back where.

Block preperation; here cleanlyness is critical, you want to get all gasket material and crud off the mounting

surface and cleaned up a small shop vac works well. Warning: do not use a die grinder and scottbrite pads, you

can wear high and low spots in the surface your gaskets could fail, use a hand scraper and don't gouge the

surface. The deck surface should be checked for flatness with a true flat edge as well but most people don't

have a true straight edge or know how to use it properly it's more art than skill.

The next most critical area is cleaning out the bolt holes of oil/fuel/water and debrie. It is also a good idea

to run a bottom tap in the hole to straighten up the theads. Some people use air and blow out the hole but I

find it spreads the crud all over the place so I use a small shop vac with a adapter to suck out each hole.
Cleaning the hole avoids a condition called hydraulicing, where the bolt actually doesn't bottom out in the

hole but squishes the trash which then causes a false torque and can loosen up later on.

TORQUEING: Torque all bolts exactly to specks and in the proper sequence to get the best clamp load.

If anyone can think of anything else please feel free to add it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cool thanks for advise, i'm going to put ARP studs in to replace bolts do you know if i can do this cab in place, or maybe jack it up six inches or so? any other recomended things to replace wile i'm in there?
 

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What size are the threads in the block. Fixing to do my heads also.wondering what size tap I'll need.

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Discussion Starter #6
not sure on thread yet was planning to pull the heads and take a bolt to Tacoma Screw (a local hardware specialty store) and get a thread chaser, not a tap. Everthing i've read said thats the way to go, you dont want to cut any material just clean out the threads.
 

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What size are the threads in the block. Fixing to do my heads also.wondering what size tap I'll need.
Sorry all I remember is they are metric about 18mm I think
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cool thanks for advise, i'm going to put ARP studs in to replace bolts do you know if i can do this cab in place, or maybe jack it up six inches or so? any other recomended things to replace wile i'm in there?
It can be done in place just a lil croweded in there especially swinging a torque wrench.
 

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finally going to just suck it up and pull the heads on my 2003 6.0. any advive out there for problems you didn't expect? i am also installing a bullet proof diesel air to oil cooler system, ARP studs, and BPD egr cooler. any advise from anyone who has done this would be great!!!

Thanks

Ben.
That is what I'm talking about! There is a really good article in this month (oct) diesel power mag, a lot of good info in that article about a cab on 6.0 head stud install. I would take the time before you have the heads torqued to hand turn the engine over to ensure you have the pushrods on the cam. Don't be like me and bend a pushrod and crack a rocker arm. Take your time and good luck.:ford:
 

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Wow Bluedemon reminded me of somethin I fergot about when ya go to torque your valves be shure the cank is in the 6.oclock position or you can bend the push rods
 

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That is what I'm talking about! There is a really good article in this month (oct) diesel power mag, a lot of good info in that article about a cab on 6.0 head stud install. I would take the time before you have the heads torqued to hand turn the engine over to ensure you have the pushrods on the cam. Don't be like me and bend a pushrod and crack a rocker arm. Take your time and good luck.:ford:
That article was rubbish. They suggested beating the firewall in to clear the last head bolt/stud. The fact that they mentioned that as the way to get the job done is retarded. And the tech that gave the info to the magazine is retarded for passing that info along in a nationally published magazine.

If I got my truck back and someone beat my firewall in to install a stud I'd be pissed.
 

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Wow Bluedemon reminded me of somethin I fergot about when ya go to torque your valves be shure the cank is in the 6.oclock position or you can bend the push rods
Th reason that happens is because most people install the rockers with an impact or an air ratchet and it shoves the push rod down to hard to fast and doesn't give the lifter time to expel the oil and instead forces it all out to fast that's why there is a specified torque on the rocker bolts. when you crank the engine over there isn't enough oil in the lifter and it slaps the push rod causing it to bend.

You can assemble the engine without turning the crank dowel to the 6 o'clock position and not have problems as long as you install the top of the heads properly and to the correct torque specs and not hurt anything.
 

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That article was rubbish. They suggested beating the firewall in to clear the last head bolt/stud. The fact that they mentioned that as the way to get the job done is retarded. And the tech that gave the info to the magazine is retarded for passing that info along in a nationally published magazine.

If I got my truck back and someone beat my firewall in to install a stud I'd be pissed.
I'd be more then pissed, I'd be going straight to the owner demanding that the dent to be removed. LOL


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I'd be more then pissed, I'd be going straight to the owner demanding that the dent to be removed. LOL


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Lol I'd have one of two things with me that would be equally intimidating. Either my .45 or my 48" pipe wrench lol.
 

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Ok you win, I don't agree with beating the fire wall body to get a socket in. I got a adapter for my torque wrench so I would have just enough clearence. Other than that the over all procedure was pretty much the same.
The ford manual says to torque the head studs with the dowel on the harmonic balancer in the 6 o'clock position, which I did.
I'm saying rotate the engine over by hand to ensure that push rods are in properly and move with the cam, I'm talking several rotations.
You really don't want to tear open the valve cover because of something stupid, that is all I'm saying. good luck
 

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Ok you win, I don't agree with beating the fire wall body to get a socket in. I got a adapter for my torque wrench so I would have just enough clearence. Other than that the over all procedure was pretty much the same.
The ford manual says to torque the head studs with the dowel on the harmonic balancer in the 6 o'clock position, which I did.
I'm saying rotate the engine over by hand to ensure that push rods are in properly and move with the cam, I'm talking several rotations.
You really don't want to tear open the valve cover because of something stupid, that is all I'm saying. good luck
I know that the tech manual says to rotate it to the 6 o'clock position and I'm not saying that is the wrong way of doing it. I am simply saying that as long as you make sure that you seat the push rods into the clips on top of the lifters and only torque the rockers to the proper torque and you will be fine.
 

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Heres something that just popped in my head. Is there a list somewhere that lists all the different torque specs for the 6.0? Would be much more convenient than searching through the manual. Got a haynes by the way hope this will suffice.

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Is there that anyone knows of?

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The DTC website has what is called the 6.0 bible you may want to download and save it on your hard drive, not a true shop manual but good reference. There is a torque table there for most of the major components.
 

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Thanks danny

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