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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone I’m having a bit of an issue here I’ve been noticing recently my oil temp has been running hotter than usual the past couple days. It’s been below freezing here in MA. My coolant temp has been perfectly fine but if I’m driving it seems any throttle causes the oil temp to keep rising. It’ll get as hot as 220-230 by the time I get up the hill to my house and that’s with me babying the throttle. Oil temp starts dropping again once the truck is put in park the engine is just idling. The oil cooler was done roughly 30k miles ago and the motor has 228k. All of this started happening after I drove to work with my snowplow on the truck one time. The oil got hot to around 220 so I pulled over and let it cool off and it’s been happening with the plow not on the truck ever since. Any insight to what the problem could be and if I should stop driving the truck would be much appreciated thanks. 2007 f250 6.0 power stroke
 

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So the coolant temp stays down and the oil temp keeps rising? First check coolant level, oil level, then I'd suspect a stuck thermostat or broken water pump. Does your heat operate correctly and not based on how fast the engine is spinning? Otherwise, it's a clogged oil cooler. Can backflush it and attempt to buy some time on it, or you can do a hard chemical flush and replace the oil cooler with OEM (in that order, don't want to clog up the new cooler). Or if you have some $$$ burning a hole, get the BPD relocation, water-cooled or air, both are good. If you aren't deleted and would like to stay that way, I'd recommend not driving it much until you get this ironed out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes the coolant stays at normal temps, water pump was replaced last winter along with an xdp xtra cool radiator and new fan clutch. I checked the oil it’s full checked the coolant it’s just below the max line, and my heat does cool off when the engine is under around 1100 rpm but that has been like that since last year so I was assuming it’s just that valve on the heater core hose. And also the truck is deleted straight piped and tuned. Should I try reverting it back to stock tune and seeing how it goes maybe? Not sure if the tune will affect oil temp much, but I never get in to the throttle much anyways. Your theory of the cooler being clogged is starting to sink in with me a little as I’m noticing it is cooling very slowly while idling. I just got home from work and oil was around 220, been sitting for roughly 10 minutes and we’re at 205 now. Not sure if that’s a bad thing or not but before all this BS it seemed to cool off pretty quickly to me lol. It just sucks as I replaced the cooler along with a bunch of other stuff only 30k ago.
 

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What brand oil cooler was installed (and where was it purchased)?
What coolant are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am using cat ec-1 rated coolant, I was told that’s a good option for the 6.0. As for the brand of the oil cooler I’m not sure what brand it was but I’m hoping it’s a motorcraft. I didn’t order the cooler my father did so I’ll have to see if he remembers.
 

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I would look into backflushing the oil cooler as it cools back down once load on the engine drops. With your coolant staying the same I feel its just not circulating enough through the coolant passages of the cooler to spike the coolant and then in turn causes the oil to get hotter quicker under load. There are a lot of oil coolers with the words "heavy duty" and upgraded" that are chinese junk that cause all sorts of cooling issues and im betting yours is either clogging and or its a cheapo disguised as a heavy duty one.
 

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat CCSB - ARP studs, EGR deleted, IPR coolant filter
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Looks like a clogged oil cooler to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you all for your responses I really appreciate it I’m going to try back flushing it this weekend along with fresh oil change and coolant.
 

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You say your coolant temps were normal, but post some numbers. If your snow plow is blocking flow to the radiator, your coolant can't and won't be able to cool the oil properly!

What tune are you running? If it's a hot tune, that doesn't play nice with a snow plow...

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes the coolant temps I’m seeing range from 175-189 while driving and I’m running the looney tune. Never had any problems with it before and I’ve been plowing with this truck with the tune for 2 winters now. Also only drove away from my house with the plow on once this winter and after that day it’s been getting hot without the plow on.
 

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat CCSB - ARP studs, EGR deleted, IPR coolant filter
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Those coolant temps indicate a failed or non-standard thermostat.

With a properly operating thermostat, your coolant temps should range above 185. That is to say, 185 under light to moderate loads, and higher under heavier loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So you’re saying if the thermostat is working correctly I shouldn’t be seeing temps go below 185 after engine is warmed up?
 

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I also vote for oil cooler. If an aftermarket unit was used (like Dorman, sinister diesel … etc.) you're lucky it lasted 30,000 miles. I made this mistake once (unwisely, to save pennies). I had to change an oil cooler again after 2-3 years [I was both lucky and grateful that it lasted that long; sinister diesel cooler, lasted right around the 30k mark before getting plugged up; also on ELC coolant]. Regarding coolant temp., my 03 runs at 188 operating which sometimes drops to 186 on a cold day when cruising. My 05 operates at 192 degrees. These values are under low load conditions, just cruising around sometimes empty, sometimes with a payload of less than one ton. If you live in a very cold climate I suppose your coolant temperatures could be plausible especially if you're driving at higher speeds.
 

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat CCSB - ARP studs, EGR deleted, IPR coolant filter
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So you’re saying if the thermostat is working correctly I shouldn’t be seeing temps go below 185 after engine is warmed up?
While driving an hour ago, I realized I made a mistake in my earlier post.

My 05 6.0 with a thermostat a few months old stabilizes at 194-195 and rises from there when working hard. My understanding is that this is how things should be.

A bit about this may be counterintuitive. A higher coolant temperature actually makes the cooling system more effective at removing excess heat from the engine. This is due to the greater difference between coolant temperature and the temperature of the air flowing through the radiator.

I pull a 3 mile 15% grade on my way to work each day. At the top of the climb, my coolant is up to 205 to 210, IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh well that’s odd mine seems to like to stabilize at 187-189 in the summer that is and rise up from there depending on load. I’ve replaced thermostats on it as well and it’s always ran around there
 

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Oh well that’s odd mine seems to like to stabilize at 187-189 in the summer that is and rise up from there depending on load. I’ve replaced thermostats on it as well and it’s always ran around there
I could be wrong, but I highly doubt your issue is with the thermostat or coolant temp. Have you witnessed any coolant shooting out of the upper hose on the degas (overflow) bottle after driving it for a while and seeing the very high oil temperatures? I think it's on the left side (looking at the bottle from the front of the truck), connecting the degas to the EGR cooler. If your oil cooler is clogged enough I suppose the EGR cooler will experience localized pressure and temperature spikes in the coolant which will blow right by the spring clamp on the degas. Check it out, but like the other commenters said, don't make it a habit driving the truck like this. If the EGR cooler blows you're in for a big mess and possibly a new motor. Have you scanned the PCM for any codes???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I could be wrong, but I highly doubt your issue is with the thermostat or coolant temp. Have you witnessed any coolant shooting out of the upper hose on the degas (overflow) bottle after driving it for a while and seeing the very high oil temperatures? I think it's on the left side (looking at the bottle from the front of the truck), connecting the degas to the EGR cooler. If your oil cooler is clogged enough I suppose the EGR cooler will experience localized pressure and temperature spikes in the coolant which will blow right by the spring clamp on the degas. Check it out, but like the other commenters said, don't make it a habit driving the truck like this. If the EGR cooler blows you're in for a big mess and possibly a new motor. Have you scanned the PCM for any codes???
My egr is deleted, I don’t have any codes, and no a few months ago I replaced the degas bottle because the bottom fitting was leaking, and I didn’t notice any leaks while checking the oil and coolant the other day.
 

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That's a good thing that your EGR is deleted; one less worry I reckon. Just don't let the oil get hot enough where it either starts to break down or damage components in the engine (like injectors … etc.). Did you find out what kind of oil cooler went in 30k miles ago? Also, what are you using to scan for codes? I would think you'd at least have a soft code for the large delta T.
 

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat CCSB - ARP studs, EGR deleted, IPR coolant filter
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Is there any white residue around the degas bottle cap?

Whether or not there is, excessive EOT/ECT delta points to a clogged oil cooler.

Out on the highway driving at 60 or so for 10 or 15 minutes, what are your oil and coolant temps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just got home from work it’s roughly a 25 minute drive on mostly back roads with about a 5-10 minute long steep uphill section at the end. I didn’t stop to let it cool like I’ve been doing, I wanted to see what it would get up to and it topped out at 189 for coolant temp and 225 for the oil. I just did another scan for codes with my sct gtx and there are no codes. Just checked degas bottle cap, it’s perfectly clean. Also some wonderful news, we can’t figure out what cooler it was so that means it was probably a cheaper one.
 
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