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Discussion Starter #21
Before it rained and got dark on me, I was able to get the fuel bowl and HPOP removed.

Only issue I had was, the crank spun while attempting to get the 18mm bolt out of the front of the HPOP.

Most YouTube videos say that you need a 2nd person to hold the crank bolt.
It would have been nice to have a 2nd set of hands but I didn’t.

I got a socket and breaker bar on the crank, put the end of that breaker facing up, I was able to hold the crank in place and get the bolt from HPOP lose while up top.
Getting that bolt “torqued” to spec may need a 2nd set of hands but I suspect that I’ll be able to do it as I did the removal.


Just to reiterate, I’m not trying to be all “technical”, I’m simply posting this stuff in an effort to help someone else.

It’s a big job for a guy like me but it’s doable.
So far I’m doing with the tools I had, I’m doing it in my driveway between rain showers.

YouTube has been very valuable, there’s several good videos on this stuff.

The only tools that I would highly recommend are this one....


Used to remove the quick disconnect oil lines. It’s available very reasonably priced on the interweb. The one with the bend like this made removing the lines a simple process.

I also had been wanting the new Milwaukee “extended reach” ratchet.
This job pushed me to make the purchase. It’s not a “need” but it was very nice to have.

I caught a sale at Home Depot on line.
The tool wasn’t on sale but they had a battery package priced “right”.
I got the “tool only” @ normal price,and got (2) 3 mAh batteries w/charger for less than half price.
The “kit” comes with (1) 2 mAh battery.
I’m a Milwaukee “fan boy” already but this particular tool is very nice, if your considering it, go for it.

Based on what I’ve seen online, I was surprised to see that my fuel bowl looked very clean, none of the rust colored shellac that I’ve seen.


I did find that the bottom gasket on my fuel filter had a couple of tears in it.
I replaced the filter when I did my first oil change (truck is fairly new to me).

Is this common?
Did I cause this?
Ever seen it before?


I work my regular 24 hr shift tomorrow, weather permitting I’ll get on to rebuilding the fuel bowl and HPOP on Wednesday.

Again, thanks for reading/responding.
 

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Looks good man! If you haven't already take the fuel bowl element heater/plate out of the bottom. My fuel bowl looked clean until I saw the sand and junk hiding under the heater element plate lol. I sprayed brake clean and no lie a strong table spoon of silt/sand looking stuff. Very squishy so the diesel had been eating at it for a long time. But I only bought the truck 4 years ago too.

Keep us updated and how it turns out in the end. I have been wanting the little 1/4 or 3/4 Milwaukee ratchet for a couple of years now and decided its my next birthday/Christmas combo lol... Saves so so SO much time.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Looks good man! If you haven't already take the fuel bowl element heater/plate out of the bottom. My fuel bowl looked clean until I saw the sand and junk hiding under the heater element plate lol. I sprayed brake clean and no lie a strong table spoon of silt/sand looking stuff. Very squishy so the diesel had been eating at it for a long time. But I only bought the truck 4 years ago too.



Keep us updated and how it turns out in the end. I have been wanting the little 1/4 or 3/4 Milwaukee ratchet for a couple of years now and decided its my next birthday/Christmas combo lol... Saves so so SO much time.


Hey Justin.
Seems your online at the moment, and I’ve got a question about EBPV delete.

I’m sending my pedestal back to RiffRaff and ordering the delete pedestal and high flow outlet.

I’m curious about the electronics.

Do you just leave the connection unplugged?
With this cause any “codes”?

What about the sensor and tube @ front of the engine.

I looked up the topic but didn’t see much of anything related to the electronic side of “EBPV delete”


Edit:
Maybe Justin ain’t online.

I’ll be glad to hear from anyone.
 

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Hey Justin.
Seems your online at the moment, and I’ve got a question about EBPV delete.

I’m sending my pedestal back to RiffRaff and ordering the delete pedestal and high flow outlet.

I’m curious about the electronics.

Do you just leave the connection unplugged?
With this cause any “codes”?

What about the sensor and tube @ front of the engine.

I looked up the topic but didn’t see much of anything related to the electronic side of “EBPV delete”


Edit:
Maybe Justin ain’t online.

I’ll be glad to hear from anyone.

There are three things people do:

1. Leave it alone and you get a code but it doesn't affect performance.

2. grab some diode resistance or whatever they're called from radioshack or online. There are some good write ups and its what I did. you bend the ends to fit in the wire harness end and tape it up. been that way 3+ yrs no code still.

3. riffraff sells a little plug with the diode built in, looks nice, kind of pricey but very good quality etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
There are three things people do:



1. Leave it alone and you get a code but it doesn't affect performance.



2. grab some diode resistance or whatever they're called from radioshack or online. There are some good write ups and its what I did. you bend the ends to fit in the wire harness end and tape it up. been that way 3+ yrs no code still.



3. riffraff sells a little plug with the diode built in, looks nice, kind of pricey but very good quality etc.

Thank you!

Any advice on the sensor on the front of engine?

I’m assuming they are part of the same system.
 

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Thank you!

Any advice on the sensor on the front of engine?

I’m assuming they are part of the same system.
Personally... Leave it. You can take it apart and clean the sensor and the tube but honestly its just extra work to remove and do the delete and will not help. I cleaned mine thoroughly and all it did was take my time lol. But deleting the little butterfly valve in the turbo was a god send. They don't really help in colder climates and can leak, stick and hurt fuel economy and really bug you till the oil temp is hot enough to turn it off.

Some folks have rigged it as a diy exhaust brake but never saw it as worth the time and I have towed 5th wheels, light/medium equipment, vehicles, and if you need an exhaust brake on these trucks your doing something wrong. The gearing, turning off over drive, adjusting the brake controller and good brakes will be more than enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Personally... Leave it. You can take it apart and clean the sensor and the tube but honestly its just extra work to remove and do the delete and will not help. I cleaned mine thoroughly and all it did was take my time lol. But deleting the little butterfly valve in the turbo was a god send. They don't really help in colder climates and can leak, stick and hurt fuel economy and really bug you till the oil temp is hot enough to turn it off.



Some folks have rigged it as a diy exhaust brake but never saw it as worth the time and I have towed 5th wheels, light/medium equipment, vehicles, and if you need an exhaust brake on these trucks your doing something wrong. The gearing, turning off over drive, adjusting the brake controller and good brakes will be more than enough.


Cool Beans
Thanks

I’ll update tomorrow as I get into rebuilding/re-sealing fuel bowl & HPOP
 

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Discussion Starter #28


Finished up re-sealing HPOP and Fuel Bowl.

I’m about to get the EBPV delete finished. That’s pretty simple and straight forward.
I’m very happy that I sent the direct replacement pedestal back and ordered the “correct” one.


I do have a question about the turbo and wastegate.

Turbo wheels spins freely without any slop, it appears to be in good shape.
Wastegate actuator, and gate moves good.

Question:
Is there and service, cleaning, or lubrication that I should be doing while I have the unit apart?

Thanks.
 

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Finished up re-sealing HPOP and Fuel Bowl.

I’m about to get the EBPV delete finished. That’s pretty simple and straight forward.
I’m very happy that I sent the direct replacement pedestal back and ordered the “correct” one.


I do have a question about the turbo and wastegate.

Turbo wheels spins freely without any slop, it appears to be in good shape.
Wastegate actuator, and gate moves good.

Question:
Is there and service, cleaning, or lubrication that I should be doing while I have the unit apart?

Thanks.


You could twist the waste gate arm a few rotations I think even just 1-3 rotations will improve the wastegate performance. My friend who knows more about 7.3ls than me was a huge help when I was learning them. tightening it just helps keep it from prematurely opening etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You could twist the waste gate arm a few rotations I think even just 1-3 rotations will improve the wastegate performance. My friend who knows more about 7.3ls than me was a huge help when I was learning them. tightening it just helps keep it from prematurely opening etc.


For clarification, are you suggesting to make the arm a few turns shorter, or longer?

Thanks.
 

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You could twist the waste gate arm a few rotations I think even just 1-3 rotations will improve the wastegate performance. My friend who knows more about 7.3ls than me was a huge help when I was learning them. tightening it just helps keep it from prematurely opening etc.


For clarification, are you suggesting to make the arm a few turns shorter, or longer?

Thanks.
Few turns tighter. Even just turning it two full rotations will be a slight improvement. I run stock tuning 99% of the time so I wasn’t worried about building a couple more psi of boost etc
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Bump:
For another question.

So yesterday, I was able to get back on my project.
I got the oil cooler off, taken apart and everything cleaned up.

I’m about to head out and get the oil cooler re-assembled and put back on the truck.

It dawned on me that I’ve made a mistake, hopefully not a big one.
Usually I pay good attention to how things come apart, I take notes and pictures.
I didn’t do any of those things when I took the oil cooler apart, and this leads to my most recent question.

I understand how the cooler is re-assembled, what I don’t know is, if the tube section of the cooler is directional.
I’m not seeing anything that would indicate that it is but I sure don’t want to reassemble it the wrong way.

I should have marked it but didn’t.

Anyone know if the cooler has a direction of flow that matters during reassembling?
 

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I marked mine when pulled apart but I am 99.9% it’s not directional. It’s a liquid heat exchanger so flows both ways etc. ps after I got done cleaning my Mark was gone and this was over a year ago so I guessed which way it went lol.

O rings for both ends of the tube are the exact same diameter etc
 
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