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Discussion Starter #1
2000 f250 purchased a few months ago w/182k on it, I’ve put about an additional 10k on the odometer.

First and foremost, I’ve been changing my own parts and doing my own basic maintenance for many years but I’m not a mechanic, and this is my first diesel/Powerstroke.

This truck had some obvious seepage when I purchased it, I was slightly concerned but “heard” that a 7.3 that didn’t leak a bit probably didn’t have any oil in it. This truck at the time would leave a drop or two on the ground.

Hell, I’m rambling.
Y’all know the story already.

Anyway, I’ve got oil in the valley. I’m certain that it’s leaking from the pedestal.

I think that I may be leaking a bit from someplace @ HPOP.

I know that I’m leaking @Oil cooler and this leak seems to be progressing the quickest.

I’ve ordered the parts that I think I need. Dealt with RiffRaff.

My plan is to replace seals in pedestal.
Replace the seals in/on oil cooler.
I was just going to replace the Orings (3) of them on the HPOP (2 hose 1plug). The gentleman @ RiffRaff convinced me that I should get the bigger “kit” and do the whole HPOP job. Made sense, kit wasn’t that much more $, and I was doing a lot of the labor already.

What I’m looking for is, any advice on what I’m planning on doing. (Tips/Tricks, Dos/Donts)

My biggest concern is doing the complete HPOP, I lean heavily on the Youtube and there doesn’t seem to be any single video that addresses the process completely. I’ve kinda pieced a couple together.

Anything I should be aware of, something else I should do while I’m at it?

I’ll take anything y’all have to offer.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to the org and glad to see you doing some research and using quality parts. Me personally.... I doubt the majority is coming from the hpop itself. I would really look closer as the fuel bowl... It doesn't always give a diesel smell and mixes with the oil and looks/smells like JUST AN OIL LEAK but the reality is you most likely have a little bit of both on a 20 yr old diesel and not an issue at all.

I did the following and have ZERO leaks....

Resealed the fuel bowl, new Fuel pressure regular kit, new rubber fittings on the fuel lines to the fuel bowl, new hpop lines (the kit from cncfab) vs almost $350 for two lines and 4 end connectors, new pedestal and turbo o rings. That alone stopped any leaks above. I did have to replace the oil dipstick adapter but that was way afterwards.

I would look very much at replacing the hpop lines with the kit from cncfab, and for about $100 you can get the fuel bowl o ring kit, FPR kit, and rubber ends for the fuel lines. took me 2.5 hrs with my 11 yr old nephew helping and messing around.

Just my thoughts but at 182k I doubt you need to reseal the whole hpop. its a job pulling it out and not usually the pump leaking. its a combination of fuel/oil

For the oil cooler, look up dondieseltech on youtube. His oil cooler video is spot on. VERY MESSY but very easy too. Took me couple hours because I thought it was worth trying to clean more than the o ring surfaces lol... I would grab some extra oil and coolant for the spillage. I also bent the block heater element so this summer Ill have to drain some coolant again and replace it along with the cord.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's an interesting video, BUT I have to warn you about this guy,,,, he makes some Good Videos, that Does NOT make him infallible. He's got some really GOOFY theories (not about this though) So, don't take him as your Guru, as many do :( Confirm his advice on anything else he says :wink[3]:

http://powerstrokehelp.com/7.3liter/leaks/1of2.asp


Your link appears to be broken.

I did see that it’s Bill H. site, I’ve watched some of his videos but didn’t notice one specific to R/R of HPOP.

I’ll see what I can find.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the org and glad to see you doing some research and using quality parts. Me personally.... I doubt the majority is coming from the hpop itself. I would really look closer as the fuel bowl... It doesn't always give a diesel smell and mixes with the oil and looks/smells like JUST AN OIL LEAK but the reality is you most likely have a little bit of both on a 20 yr old diesel and not an issue at all.

I did the following and have ZERO leaks....

Resealed the fuel bowl, new Fuel pressure regular kit, new rubber fittings on the fuel lines to the fuel bowl, new hpop lines (the kit from cncfab) vs almost $350 for two lines and 4 end connectors, new pedestal and turbo o rings. That alone stopped any leaks above. I did have to replace the oil dipstick adapter but that was way afterwards.

I would look very much at replacing the hpop lines with the kit from cncfab, and for about $100 you can get the fuel bowl o ring kit, FPR kit, and rubber ends for the fuel lines. took me 2.5 hrs with my 11 yr old nephew helping and messing around.

Just my thoughts but at 182k I doubt you need to reseal the whole hpop. its a job pulling it out and not usually the pump leaking. its a combination of fuel/oil

For the oil cooler, look up dondieseltech on youtube. His oil cooler video is spot on. VERY MESSY but very easy too. Took me couple hours because I thought it was worth trying to clean more than the o ring surfaces lol... I would grab some extra oil and coolant for the spillage. I also bent the block heater element so this summer Ill have to drain some coolant again and replace it along with the cord.


I think I’ve watched the oil cooler video you’ve mentioned.

And I considered ordering the lines you speak of, I didn’t order because of the cost, but wasn’t aware of the price you mentioned.
I’m going to inspect what I have very carefully when I get things apart, any signs of trouble and I’ll definitely order and replace.

Thanks so much.
 

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The cheapest ive seen oem hpop lines and end fittings is riffraff and little over 300 for the two hoses and 4 end fittings. It was like $137 for the cncfab hpop line kit. Common upgrade over the most likely leaking 20 yr old hoses. Ford says they should be replaced every 10 yrs anyways if using oem.

I was amazed at how little fluid I had in my vally by just resealing the fuel bowl and rebuilding the fpr. I only did the hpop lines since my IPR died and I was in a bit of a pinch with moving so the local Ford dealer did the pump and IPR while I was at work saved me a ton of hassel and they have good techs. Just my thoughts but the hpop is a very stoute basic pump that just amplifies the pressure from the low pressure oil pump but they fail extremely rarely etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The cheapest ive seen oem hpop lines and end fittings is riffraff and little over 300 for the two hoses and 4 end fittings. It was like $137 for the cncfab hpop line kit. Common upgrade over the most likely leaking 20 yr old hoses. Ford says they should be replaced every 10 yrs anyways if using oem.



I was amazed at how little fluid I had in my vally by just resealing the fuel bowl and rebuilding the fpr. I only did the hpop lines since my IPR died and I was in a bit of a pinch with moving so the local Ford dealer did the pump and IPR while I was at work saved me a ton of hassel and they have good techs. Just my thoughts but the hpop is a very stoute basic pump that just amplifies the pressure from the low pressure oil pump but they fail extremely rarely etc.


Please don’t see me as being argumentative, I truly appreciate any advice given, I would not have been “that guy” and come looking for help and proceed to argue and ignore.
I’m a member of several unrelated forums, and I know “that guy” well.

Let me explain a little.
I’m almost certain that the lines in my truck have been replaced at least once. No idea how long ago but I don’t think they are “stock”, they are braided steel lines that appear to be very similar to the ones that CNCfab offers.

Correct me if I’m wrong, the stock lines weren’t braided?

Edit:
This is my reasoning for being willing to dig into the project a bit, inspect the lines/fittings before pulling the trigger on those specific parts.

2nd edit:
Do you have a supplier/part #s for the parts to do the fuel bowl?

That stuff makes perfect sense, seems I’d be stupid to not do it while I’m doing this other stuff.
 

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Personally, I don't like to spend money unless I have to.

If it was my truck, I would thoroughly clean the engine valley and anywhere else I suspected a leak was originating from instead of blinding replacing parts. Once everything is clean I'd run the engine to pinpoint the leak and replace what is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Personally, I don't like to spend money unless I have to.



If it was my truck, I would thoroughly clean the engine valley and anywhere else I suspected a leak was originating from instead of blinding replacing parts. Once everything is clean I'd run the engine to pinpoint the leak and replace what is necessary.


Fair enough, and I tend to be that way too.

I’m also reasonable, I’m fully aware that I’m dealing with a truck and engine that’s 20 years old.
Although I’m only the 3rd owner, I have no real idea how it was actually cared for. My truck is in very good condition based on what the average is, but I really don’t know.

I’m not poor but I don’t have extra money that I care to spend unnecessarily. (I’m a Jeep nerd, I like new Jeep stuff, almost to the point of being unhealthy) looking behind my shoulder for spouse.

That means making good decisions, in my mind that includes not doing a two day job twice because a wanted to scrimp on a $100 worth of parts.

I try hard to make the “best” decision the first time, I’m closer to 60 than I am 50, and it probably took me 50 years to learn to be that way.
Most of what we’re talking about here are parts that are prone to failure at or about the mileage of my truck. Seems very reasonable to me to replace the cheaper ones even if they haven’t failed yet.

Thanks for the input.
 

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Seems very reasonable to me to replace the cheaper ones even if they haven’t failed yet.
Fix until broke?

I'd start with the oil cooler since you know that's leaking.

I wouldn't touch the HPOP unless I could prove that it was the source of the leak. My 99 has almost 260k and zero leaks from the original HPOP.

The oil in the valley is probably the EBPV actuator (first thing I gutted when I got either of my trucks) or the turbo pedestal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
FWIW.
If I can keep this truck running and dependable, I’d like it to be the last truck I ever own.
I drive it back and forth to work, and I pull my Jeep to various off road locations several times a year.

Jeep with gear and trailer weighs under 8k.

I’ve put cold air intake, and TS 6 position chip in it, other performance mods will only be as something needs to be repaired or replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Fix until broke?



I'd start with the oil cooler since you know that's leaking.



I wouldn't touch the HPOP unless I could prove that it was the source of the leak. My 99 has almost 260k and zero leaks from the original HPOP.



The oil in the valley is probably the EBPV actuator (first thing I gutted when I got either of my trucks) or the turbo pedestal.


I know that the pedestal is leaking.
I know that the oil cooler is leaking.

Although I don’t know that the HPOP is leaking, I’m going to be in the basic area, parts are cheap enough
The fuel bowl is also right there.
With my mileage those things seem more like preventative maintenance than anything.
My plan is to get another 2-300k out of this truck. Good Lord Willing.
 

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Please don’t see me as being argumentative, I truly appreciate any advice given, I would not have been “that guy” and come looking for help and proceed to argue and ignore.
I’m a member of several unrelated forums, and I know “that guy” well.

Let me explain a little.
I’m almost certain that the lines in my truck have been replaced at least once. No idea how long ago but I don’t think they are “stock”, they are braided steel lines that appear to be very similar to the ones that CNCfab offers.

Correct me if I’m wrong, the stock lines weren’t braided?

Edit:
This is my reasoning for being willing to dig into the project a bit, inspect the lines/fittings before pulling the trigger on those specific parts.

2nd edit:
Do you have a supplier/part #s for the parts to do the fuel bowl?

That stuff makes perfect sense, seems I’d be stupid to not do it while I’m doing this other stuff.


Its all good I misread the braided part on the hpop lines my bad. Technically its a braided hose under the rubber oat from oem but if you have a regular stainless steel braided type line they have already been replaced like you said.

Dieselorings and riffraff diesel are my main suppliers for all things 7.3l. If you decide to do the fuel bowl just my recommendation is all.

Link for parts. you'll want the fuel bowl reseal kit, fuel pressure relief rebuild kit and the parker Viton sleeve kit (goes on the threaded end fittings of the metal fuel lines from/to fuel bowl.-diesel o rings: https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-2003-ford-7-3l/fuel-bowl-parts.html

riffraff-https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-system-o-rings-sleeves-hoses-99-03/ riffraff has some o rings in other website parts but clay from riffraff is second to none and been in the game longer than most. Honestly the guy from diesel o rings is just as good.

Long story short-more people have leak fuel bowls/FPR's and lines that they know and I was very surprised how quickly my valley dried up before even touching the hpop lines. 99% of the time im a don't fix it if it aint broke but im kind of OCD about leaks. I don't like leaving marks on some of my friends nicer driveways, at the office/other job sites and I have one coworker with a beat up Nissan car and he literally leaves a 8in+ puddle of oil everywhere he goes. I've offered to help and he just like buying oil I guess.
 

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Your link appears to be broken.

I did see that it’s Bill H. site, I’ve watched some of his videos but didn’t notice one specific to R/R of HPOP.

I’ll see what I can find.

Thanks.
Thank You! Didn't realize his site had been rearranged, I fixed my post with the updated link -> https://powerstrokehelp.com/identifying-fixing-leaks/

He's still got a bunch of good, informative, videos but he's just So Far off-base with many of his own "theories" (like the HPOP Oil Change - he'll always be just a DuFus to me! ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bump for additional question.


Oil cooler.

Mines coming out to replace the O-rings/ fix the leak.

I’m seeing that’s although not a terrible job, it’s fairly time consuming.
I’ve seen on the YouTube that several guys talk about the cooler itself being “clogged”.

Do these tend to get clogged with reasonable oil change intervals?

Can they be cleaned fairly easily?

Would I be best served to just order a new cooler, price of cooler isn’t unreasonable, I’d be willing to replace it if the consensus says I should.
 

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Bump for additional question.


Oil cooler.

Mines coming out to replace the O-rings/ fix the leak.

I’m seeing that’s although not a terrible job, it’s fairly time consuming.
I’ve seen on the YouTube that several guys talk about the cooler itself being “clogged”.

Do these tend to get clogged with reasonable oil change intervals?

Can they be cleaned fairly easily?

Would I be best served to just order a new cooler, price of cooler isn’t unreasonable, I’d be willing to replace it if the consensus says I should.
I've never heard of a 7.3 oil cooler clogging (6.0 yes), once you get it apart you'll see how large the channels are that the oil/coolant flow through.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bump for additional question.

I’m reading and seeing that some guys are having “ no start” after removing fuel bowl and HPOP and lines for repairs.

I got the CNC line kit w/crossover that I’ll be installing when I do this work.

Are there “common” mistakes being made that causes the “no start” issues.

I’m already aware of the check ball in the non serviceable.
I will be removing that and replacing with the extended thread version.

Other than that, what do I need to be aware of to prevent “no start” upon completion?

Again, I’m replacing the turbo pedestal.

Removing and re-sealing fuel bowl, drain valve etc.

Re-sealing HPOP, and replacing lines, adding oil crossover.

Removing and re-sealing oil cooler.

I’m scared to death of doing all this and then having to chase down/ re-do because of a “no start” condition.
 

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If everything is done properly, you'll just have longer cranking for about the first 50-100 miles of driving. Just be sure the batteries are fully charged, and give your starter a rest to cool down in between cranking so you don't burn it up.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If everything is done properly, you'll just have longer cranking for about the first 50-100 miles of driving. Just be sure the batteries are fully charged, and give your starter a rest to cool down in between cranking so you don't burn it up.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So, I guess a post a little as I go.

Started this job today.

So far, I’ve got the pedestal off.
Ran into some difficulties (go figure).

Again, I’m no mechanic, I don’t have a “shop”, I’m doing this in my driveway.


The two “issues” that I struggled most with:
“Exhaust clamps”
1) passenger side clamp.
Either someone has had it off before, or it was placed in a crappy orientation from the factory. The nut/treads was almost facing the fire wall.
I’m not sure how anyone got it on in that position but it took me a couple of hours fighting with it. I consider it a minor miracle that I got it loose/off.

2) the other clamp (behind turbo) was just a PITA to get loose/ off. I got the nut backed off easily but the clamp itself was seized up to the parts. Took a bunch of “blaster” and beating on it. I used a long piece of small angel iron. Beat on it from the side, and from underneath the truck. Finally it popped free.

This is some of the larger debris that I found in the back half of the valley, along with a bunch of oil.


I’m really curious about this specific piece.

It’s very thin aluminum, I’ve flattened it out to get a picture of the #s.
Anyone recognize it?

It was very obvious that the pedestal was leaking from both sets of O rings.

I’ll post more later.

BTW, I know this is pretty routine stuff for most of you, it’s a big job for my skill level.

Thanks for reading and responding.

Headed back to remove fuel bowl, and hopefully the HPOP before it rains.
 
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