[Cheap_Sailor2010]

Brand new 6.0 Owner— new diesel truck owner as well.

Just got a hand me down Junk-O-Problems from a family member 7 days ago—- I am checking the EBT sensor— pulling for a clean and look see. I pulled the cold pipes out and here is what I found....


1) is it possible the Valveline shop OVERFILLED the truck with oil?

2) What would possibly cause oil draining DOWN the COLD air intercooler pipes?

thanks...

Thomas (Central Florida)

 

[jokester00]

The crank case vent runs from the driver's side valve cover into the plastic intake piece that attaches to the front of your turbo. This, in turn, then spreads the oil through the charge air pipes and cooler. That's where the oil comes from. Unless you're seeing tons of it (way more than a few teaspoons), that's pretty normal. The only thing would be, if the CCV has been re-routed - then you might have an issue.

-jokester

 

[Cheap_Sailor2010]

The crank case vent runs from the driver's side valve cover into the plastic intake piece that attaches to the front of your turbo. This, in turn, then spreads the oil through the charge air pipes and cooler. That's where the oil comes from. Unless you're seeing tons of it (way more than a few teaspoons), that's pretty normal. The only thing would be, if the CCV has been re-routed - then you might have an issue.

-jokester

Thanks—- nope, a few teaspoons is all I see... Do you have a link to a crankcase re-route? I’ve heard a lot of OCD peeps like me have issues with oil degrading the F’ boots— and frankly, while I know this is a F’ing FrankenFord coming back to life after sitting for years—I’d like to keep **** dry that’s supposed to stay ‘dry’... If you happen to know of a good Y-Tuber that has a good set up— please drop the link for us all?
Thanks again for the quick reply and for the note— I have less anxiety on what I am dealing with now... As a newbie— I was fearing the worst bro... 🙄🙄🙄

 

[ZMANN]

it looks like you have the new style boots that can handle oil

I wouldn't mess with a CCV reroute and thats coming from someone who runs the best one made for our trucks
that little oil is just not worth the effort or potential for other issues if the CCV becomes restricted or is a bad design and is a restriction

 

[ZMANN]

ps get a OEM oil cap and filter

 

[Cheap_Sailor2010]

it looks like you have the new style boots that can handle oil

I wouldn't mess with a CCV reroute and thats coming from someone who runs the best one made for our trucks
that little oil is just not worth the effort or potential for other issues if the CCV becomes restricted or is a bad design and is a restriction

Roger that... Music to my ears... Are the Sinister / Mishimoto silicon ones any better than this expensive OEM boot?

 

[Cheap_Sailor2010]

ps get a OEM oil cap and filter

Is this not an OEM cap? 😱😱. Also— where to buy reasonable priced OEM oil filters? Someone said Racor makes them for Ford anywho— dunno if that true, but a Performance Diesel Retailer in the business gave me this 411 today...

 

[ZMANN]

neither of those you mentioned I would buy after reading threads on here and seeing one of the Mishi's delaminate and cause all kinds of boost issues
Riff Raff or Dieselsite or even the latest OEM are fine IMO

 

[ZMANN]

yes Parker / Racor is the OEM for the fuel and oil
that cap is made for aftermarket /wix/garbage filters and is too tall for OEm it will cause lack of filtration

 

[ZMANN]

,,

 

[Cheap_Sailor2010]

,,

Well ****—- I just looked behind the cap—- sure as hell the “NAPA” stamped part # is on there... Dooooohh... I guess I will check with Riffraff for Oil Cap now...

 

[ZMANN]

Ford dealer for cap is fine

 

[ZMANN]

Napa is a wix IIRC
bad news for the 6.0 specially if someone removes the wix and puts an OEm filter in that tall housing

 

[Pyro-z]

Good catch on that filter cap zmann. New used 6.0, most important first. Get that cap replaced, new oil and fuel filters. Check oil level often, document and make sure it isn't rising, and no signs of water. Check coolant for type, oil contamination, and signs of burping. Need an obd2 electronic gauge to check your temp deltas. This engine must have healthy charged batteries. Weak batteries/alternator, jumpstarting = destroyed ficm. All very important.

 

[Cheap_Sailor2010]

Good catch on that filter cap zmann. New used 6.0, most important first. Get that cap replaced, new oil and fuel filters. Check oil level often, document and make sure it isn't rising, and no signs of water. Check coolant for type, oil contamination, and signs of burping. Need an obd2 electronic gauge to check your temp deltas. This engine must have healthy charged batteries. Weak batteries/alternator, jumpstarting = destroyed ficm. All very important.

I have an old Edge Ford Juice— missing the interior control monitor — the engine harness and wiring is in good shape; I just dunno if buying a guys old monitor would get me much information compared to the new Edge CTS... I need to research more about what the “Ford Juice”— potentially could help me with until I can afford $350 for the new CTS3– that looks amazing from a monitoring perspective... chime in...

 

[Cheap_Sailor2010]

Good catch on that filter cap zmann. New used 6.0, most important first. Get that cap replaced, new oil and fuel filters. Check oil level often, document and make sure it isn't rising, and no signs of water. Check coolant for type, oil contamination, and signs of burping. Need an obd2 electronic gauge to check your temp deltas. This engine must have healthy charged batteries. Weak batteries/alternator, jumpstarting = destroyed ficm. All very important.

When I got the car—- I changed oil at Valvoline with synthetic premium— they walked across the street to Napa to grab the oil filter; I personally changed out the fuel filters myself with motorcraft... They were ugly from sitting for 5-6 years... Pics of the filters below...
I also— removed, EGR sensor cleaned out + intake throat —per DieselTechRon (RIP brother), removed and replaced the ICP sensor OEM + Pigtail; removed the IPR sensor — cleaned + refurbed with Kit, and replaced old pigtail; in the middle of replacing the EBP sensor now and clearing out the pipe connected to the manifold— day one of spraying Aerokroil on the old connection— pipe looks good, but the nut on manifold looks nasty— so I am not chancing it breaking— just spraying it 4x a day— and lightly agitating it for movement— hopefully it will get the hint soon... Time to come off and be cleaned properly with my Gun Cleaning kit I have for the job— brass and copper abrasive fittings to jam down on there and clear the carbon out... Open to any and all suggestions— I’ve been drinking from a fire hose for the last two weeks. Removing all injectors and refurbishing them (ultrasonic cleaner on the way from harbor freight) and nipple / cup upgrade is in the mail for next week for the oil delivery + stand pipes...

 

[Pyro-z]

I agree the cts3 is the bomb plus with the extras it will read fuel pressure and egts all in one package. For the initial assessment I would try to get out as cheap as possible, I use a scangauge2 $140 on Amazon. I think you could get out cheaper with obd2 bluetooth adap and Forscan. You just don't know yet but the truck may need an oil cooler, or head gaskets like now. Depending on financial situation, can get expensive fast.

 

[Pyro-z]

When I got the car—- I changed oil at Valvoline with synthetic premium— they walked across the street to Napa to grab the oil filter; I personally changed out the fuel filters myself with motorcraft... They were ugly from sitting for 5-6 years... Pics of the filters below...
I also— removed, EGR sensor cleaned out + intake throat —per DieselTechRon (RIP brother), removed and replaced the ICP sensor OEM + Pigtail; removed the IPR sensor — cleaned + refurbed with Kit, and replaced old pigtail; in the middle of replacing the EBP sensor now and clearing out the pipe connected to the manifold— day one of spraying Aerokroil on the old connection— pipe looks good, but the nut on manifold looks nasty— so I am not chancing it breaking— just spraying it 4x a day— and lightly agitating it for movement— hopefully it will get the hint soon... Time to come off and be cleaned properly with my Gun Cleaning kit I have for the job— brass and copper abrasive fittings to jam down on there and clear the carbon out... Open to any and all suggestions— I’ve been drinking from a fire hose for the last two weeks. Removing all injectors and refurbishing them (ultrasonic cleaner on the way from harbor freight) and nipple / cup upgrade is in the mail for next week for the oil delivery + stand pipes... View attachment 770134 View attachment 770135 View attachment 770136 View attachment 770137
Filters look really bad. You got the egr valve looking good. Pull the intake and soak it for a week, put a new oil cooler in it. Egr delete fosho, no more black soot. You can pull that egr valve out in 5 years and it will look just as clean. Pull the heads and send them off, you'll be about done then. I forgot, sct tuner and call gearhead.

 

[Cheap_Sailor2010]

Napa is a wix IIRC
bad news for the 6.0 specially if someone removes the wix and puts an OEm filter in that tall housing

Sorry for the stupid question— but can I change out the filter and Cap while sitting in the driveway without loosing too much oil? It’s been sitting for 6 days now—negative battery terminals disconnected... Is it safe to assume 95% of oil pressure would have dissipated by now? Naive of me?

 

[Pyro-z]

Yea, it won't loose a drop, while you got the filter out you may want to replace the filter anti drainback valve in the bottom. A cheap spring loaded plastic piece. Look on YouTube.