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Discussion Starter #1
1997 7.3 OBS

First time post and diesel novice.

I recently had a no start issue. I took care of the problem and was doing some more work while I was at it. One thing I handled was a block heater replacement. Since the coolant was drained I replaced the thermostat. I figured it would be beneficial to get the new coolant into the block at the thermostat housing. Turns out it was a terrible idea. In adding the coolant I ended up putting one or two gallons directly into the engine oil. I didn't realize it until after I did a test drive.

After blowing plumes of white smoke, losing power, and some serious knock, I turned the engine off and checked the fluid levels. That's when I discovered my mistake.

Since then, I did an oil change, ran for about thirty miles checking the coolant level to make sure it wasn't dropping at all. I changed the oil again. No new coolant or water in the oil. Unfortunately I have a ton of White foam gunk inside the valve cover, and now I have a no start again.

My best guess is that the foam is in the injectors. I also, changed the oil in the HPOP reservoir when I changed the oil.

What's the best and worst you can tell me. Feel free to throw out insults if you feel it necessary I'm feeling quite humbled already.
 

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Winning DUHHH
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Discussion Starter #3
It ended up in the crank case after I poured the coolant and water mix into the thermostat housing. I thought it was safe to do since it's the center of the coolant system. It seems to me their was a stem pipe that the thermostat sits in, but there was also vacant space or an annulus around that pipe or tube that makes up the outer part of the lower section of the housing. The housing located at one end of the upper radiator hose (of course).
 

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update if anyone can help yet.
Got her running. I pulled the valve covers and scraped out the mayonnaise. I checked the lines from Hpop to injectors and oil is moving fine. Pulled an injector and opened it up (quite a bit of oil spilled into the injector sleeve and down into the cylinder) it had a small amount of the grayish oil in it. I replaced the injector and put the valve covers back on. I forgot to vacuum out the cylinder first and now I believe I have a hydro-lock.
Next I plan to pull the valve cover, take out the injector, vacuum out the cylinder through the sleeve and the glow plug port if necessary. Replace said injector, fire it up to make sure it runs before I close everything up.
After it runs, I plan on idling it up to temp (since I can't drive it without stalling) and drain the oil again, vacuum out the HPOP, refill oil, repeat until clean.
How does this sound to you guys. Any other suggestions, or things I should be concerned about?
 

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Winning DUHHH
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I'd just pull the glow plug, and spin her over after that spray some carb cleaner down hole, crank a few times and then shoot just a bit of wd40 in the cyl. Reinstall glow plug and fire her up


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Discussion Starter #6
Did exactly that. Ran great for less than a minute. Now I have a fuel pressure issue. I didn't get the check ball back into the FPR and can't find it. Gonna pick up a new one tomorrow and see if that does the trick.

Thanks for your input SC. I appreciate the replies.
 

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Winning DUHHH
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Of course it can't be easy!
Not a problem, let me know how it goes and If you need any more help


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Discussion Starter #8
So I installed a new air orifice, check ball, and corresponding o-rings. The cranks but won't start. No smoke, no lope or even trying to fire. I've got readings on the tach, so the cps seems to be okay. I tried disconnecting the ipr and cranking, then reconnected and cranked it.

Next question, should I be able to get a fuel pressure reading from the schrader valve while the truck isn't running? Obviously I can't check it while running if it won't start. Any other ideas before I get it towed to a dealership to have it scanned? Or any recommended scan systems with buzz test capability under $500?
 
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