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How many of you guys have done an actual Oil Cooler Bypass? Who did you use and can you attach a link to this post? I have searched and i can find adaptations and filter bypasses but I would like to get away from the internal oil cooler. Thanks in advance.
 

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Can't picture how you would do what you're asking for. It's all internal and would require some engineering. https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/BPD-heavy-duty-engine-oil-cooler-6-0L-upgrade-kit-p/bpd-eoc-bpof-heavy-duty.htm. I'm sure you've heard of this and I'm misunderstanding your question.

I have an BPD external air cooled oil cooler, but that is the only way I can think of a bypass.

I've seen a smaller external cooler, but it is way to small to cool the 50,000 BTUs needed. It may be for extreme performance mods that need extra cooling. The one I saw specifically for the 6.0 was for Maryland Performance Diesel, but that was not bypass, but supplemental.
 

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How many of you guys have done an actual Oil Cooler Bypass? Who did you use and can you attach a link to this post? I have searched and i can find adaptations and filter bypasses but I would like to get away from the internal oil cooler. Thanks in advance.
Trust your oil cooling to BPD! Any of their options is an improvement over the stock cooler IMHO.

k
 

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I’ve installed lots of bpd kits and a few mpd kits.. I have a bpd kit on my wife’s excursion.... I highly recommend *against* and air/oil cooler by itself. The factory one works MUCH better. With their larger cooler in my wife’s truck the coolant stays around 200 when it’s 110* outside but the oil temp soars up to 235-240 EMPTY. Even when it’s 40* ambient temps I still see oil temps approx 7* higher than coolant temps.. we don’t tow with this truck. It’s got way more fuel than air and I have my truck so I couldn’t tell you temps when loaded down.

I built my own air/oil kit for my 6.7, but made it a secondary cooler instead of deleting the factory cooler. My oil temps on my 6.7 used to be 10-15* higher when empty (normal for a 6.7) and up to a 30* split when towing, (also normal) after adding another cooler, I’ve yet to see oil temps higher than my coolant temp. It usually runs 194-200 coolant and 180-190 oil temps.

Point to this is that an air to oil cooler by itself is not enough. The factory cooler simply works much better in a 6.0 application. If you want an aftermarket oil cooler, I’d run one that allows you to keep the factory cooler in the valley.
 

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When people figure out the oil cooler isn't the problem then switch their coolant you see the big picture.


What coolant are you running?

Thanks,
 

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I’ve installed lots of bpd kits and a few mpd kits.. I have a bpd kit on my wife’s excursion.... I highly recommend *against* and air/oil cooler by itself. The factory one works MUCH better. With their larger cooler in my wife’s truck the coolant stays around 200 when it’s 110* outside but the oil temp soars up to 235-240 EMPTY. Even when it’s 40* ambient temps I still see oil temps approx 7* higher than coolant temps.. we don’t tow with this truck. It’s got way more fuel than air and I have my truck so I couldn’t tell you temps when loaded down.

I built my own air/oil kit for my 6.7, but made it a secondary cooler instead of deleting the factory cooler. My oil temps on my 6.7 used to be 10-15* higher when empty (normal for a 6.7) and up to a 30* split when towing, (also normal) after adding another cooler, I’ve yet to see oil temps higher than my coolant temp. It usually runs 194-200 coolant and 180-190 oil temps.

Point to this is that an air to oil cooler by itself is not enough. The factory cooler simply works much better in a 6.0 application. If you want an aftermarket oil cooler, I’d run one that allows you to keep the factory cooler in the valley.
My temps from an air cooled oil are about 30° cooler than you mentioned. I never saw 235° EOT unless I was towing 11k up a 6% slope, at 110° outside temp. I've since installed a 7.3 mechanical fan clutch, and it now won't break 200 EOT flat and level, and up a hill at 110° outside temp I see 210° or maybe 215° EOT. I suspect the ex has something else going on.

I don't necessarily disagree with you about Air cooled oil cooler being the be all end all. If I had a truck that needed an oil cooler, I'd consider it. If not, I'd leave the factory in.
 

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I had my factory cooler changed out again due to blown HGs. I only have about 20 thousand miles on it but the temps showed it was restricted. I also ended up buying the fitting so I could backflush the oil cooler after seeing high deltas with the new cooler. The shop said they did a coolant flush but my new cooler was restricted right away. I was able to get a ton of garbage out of the cooling system and now it's like it should have been new. You might want to consider trying a backflush and keep stock cooler.
 

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People tend to have issues after installing a new oil cooler.....when they forget to replace the tstat as well.



The old tstat will fail Open making it seem like there is a delta condition still happening. Which was their original problem to begin with....a failed tstat all the while they did all the work to replace an oil cooler. Aim small, miss small......
 

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The ex has no issues [= fan clutch works as designed. I have a fan clutch override lockup switch and if turned on, the oil temps come back down to within 10-15* of the coolant temps.

Bulletproof has acknowledged this issue and has stated it’s a normal characteristic of the system.

I will say, it has a 6.7 front clip on it, and if I remove the grill, the temps drop by about 15*. Although, this shouldn’t make that big of a difference, otherwise ford would never have made a grill that was so restrictive for trucks designed to pull close to 30k lbs.

This would lead one to think the fan clutch isn’t working, but ids data shows commanded vs actual is spot on.

I’m not concerned. 240* isn’t hurting anything. Coolant stays where it needs to be, so I’m not worried about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’ve installed lots of bpd kits and a few mpd kits.. I have a bpd kit on my wife’s excursion.... I highly recommend *against* and air/oil cooler by itself. The factory one works MUCH better. With their larger cooler in my wife’s truck the coolant stays around 200 when it’s 110* outside but the oil temp soars up to 235-240 EMPTY. Even when it’s 40* ambient temps I still see oil temps approx 7* higher than coolant temps.. we don’t tow with this truck. It’s got way more fuel than air and I have my truck so I couldn’t tell you temps when loaded down.

I built my own air/oil kit for my 6.7, but made it a secondary cooler instead of deleting the factory cooler. My oil temps on my 6.7 used to be 10-15* higher when empty (normal for a 6.7) and up to a 30* split when towing, (also normal) after adding another cooler, I’ve yet to see oil temps higher than my coolant temp. It usually runs 194-200 coolant and 180-190 oil temps.

Point to this is that an air to oil cooler by itself is not enough. The factory cooler simply works much better in a 6.0 application. If you want an aftermarket oil cooler, I’d run one that allows you to keep the factory cooler in the valley.
So my truck on shorter drives less than an hour the oil is about 220* and if its much longer it goes up to about 240-250*. No warnings or lights come on, my coolant have never gone above 198*. I thought maybe it could be the oil temp sensor because it doesn't set anything off or affect the way the truck drives (loss of power.) So how and where would you add the second cooler?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I actually had it taken out and a bunch of restriction tests done on it and it was free flowing. I was going to replace it when i replaced the engine because i didn't want contaminants but they said it was clean and clear.
 

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It takes about $1000 - $2000 of labor to remove an oil cooler. At that point, the part is between $220 and $350, so might as well swap it.

From what you said, I really think you need to get yourself a different mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It takes about $1000 - $2000 of labor to remove an oil cooler. At that point, the part is between $220 and $350, so might as well swap it.

From what you said, I really think you need to get yourself a different mechanic.
No i needed a new engine, so while they were swapping out th old one i had them check the oil cooler.
 

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Kind of points to an oil cooler, but I could be wrong. The cooler's time could have been up, or perhaps the engine swapped did not have clean coolant passages. These engines have not been made in years, so it was most likely a rebuilt or refurbished engine that was put in. I don't know of a restriction test in the Ford Workshop manual. There is a procedure for a pressure test for leaking coolant, but I think that is the EGR.

The coolant goes from the radiator, to the oil cooler, to the EGR, and back to the radiator. To tell for sure you have a clogged cooler, drive warmed up, flat level at 65, and the deltas should stay within 10.

I think if you continued to drive it, you'd get the wrench light. The wrench light trips at the coolant and oil being out of tolerance after so many minutes. I believe it is 45 minutes.

Could also be a faulty EOT sensor. The EOT and ECT sensor are the same part number. If swapped, the problem would follow the sensor.

I had a bad oil cooler that tripped the wrench light. I had no loss of power or any indication anything was wrong with my truck except the Wrench light.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
In the past before i replaced with the reman the power loss wouldn't be too noticeable but i would notice it would lose its *** when going up hills or trying to accelerate. The sensor was going to be my next check. I didn't know that the coolant and the oil temp ran off the same sensor. Or did i misunderstand that?
 

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The ECT and EOT are two different sensors, but are the same part number.
 

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I installed the heavy duty BPD air to oil cooler on my 06 250 and daily driving my ECT is 195 and my EOT IS 187. Towing 12k mostly flat land my ECT 203 and my EOT 200 in the heat of Louisiana summers. Before my EOT would be a17 degree higher while towing and around 8 degrees higher daily driving. So the mod definitely worked for me.
 

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The ex has no issues [= fan clutch works as designed. I have a fan clutch override lockup switch and if turned on, the oil temps come back down to within 10-15* of the coolant temps.

Bulletproof has acknowledged this issue and has stated it’s a normal characteristic of the system.

I will say, it has a 6.7 front clip on it, and if I remove the grill, the temps drop by about 15*. Although, this shouldn’t make that big of a difference, otherwise ford would never have made a grill that was so restrictive for trucks designed to pull close to 30k lbs.

This would lead one to think the fan clutch isn’t working, but ids data shows commanded vs actual is spot on.

I’m not concerned. 240* isn’t hurting anything. Coolant stays where it needs to be, so I’m not worried about it.
What you fail to realize is that BPD didn’t engineer this system for use in a 6.7 chassis. They designed it around the truck body and chassis it was intended to be used on which has different airflow characteristics than that of any other body style truck. So yes it would make perfect sense as to why you see a 15° drop in temp by removing the grill.
 
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