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I have searched high and low. I am looking for assistance finding a how to on changing oil on a 1995 F250 7.3. Realize it is a noob question, but I am new to diesels. Changed oil for years on my other vehicles. If you all could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
 

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Drain the oil, replace the filter, and fill it up agian. I always fill up the new filter with oil before I put it on. It takes about 3.5 gal. Oh and it is helpful to poke a hole in the old oil filter to drain the oil out first, holds quite a bit and can make a mess if it is full.
 

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Same as any other truck. Except you need a BIG drain pan and a LOT of oil. Remove drain plug from oil pan. Aprx. 12-14 quarts will drain out. Replace plug, remove oil filter, pour a quart or so of fresh oil in new oil filter (put some oil on the gasket) and install. Pour remainder of 14 quarts into filler hole on valve cover. Open cold beverage.

Option (and you'll get lots of opinions on this...) - remove the plug on the top of the HPOP reservoir (rectangular thing on front top of engine, under the "Darth Vader" cover if you have one). Drop a small tube in down to the bottom and use a siphon and siphon out that quart of oil. Replace with a fresh quart. This oil mixes with the rest of the oil at all times, so you do NOT _need_ to do this. It's not specifically done to benefit the high-pressure hydraulics. The only gain is that you get one more quart of old dirty oil out at each oil change. So if you opt to do it, that makes 15 quarts.

And in case you don't know already, it must be heavy-duty diesel engine oil. Oil for gasser cars will not suffice with our oil doing double duty (lubrication and hydraulics).
 

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Other than the "nipple vs nut" this should have everything you need to know.
As mentioned previously, if you take a nail and puncture a hole (or multiple holes) in the base of the filter it will allow the oil to drain before removing the filter. These buggers are heavy, and you wouldn't be the first one to end up with two quarts of oil on your chest when it slips out of your hand. Pre-filling the new filter isn't necessary, but I always do it.
 

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Longest part is waiting for the oil to drain.
While you're doing maintenance, it might be a good time to change the fuel filter, pump the tie-rod ends, ball-joints and u-joints full of new grease and rotate the tires.
I typically do a fuel filter every other oil change (8-10k) and a tire rotation/lubrication every oil change. All told it takes me about an hour, and that is with nothing more than a bottle jack, two jack stands and hand tools.
 

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+1 on punching a hole in the filter!! I use a center punch or similar, and put the hole as much in the center as I can, keeps from slinging oil out when you spin the filter off.

And if you choose to fill the new filter before you install it (I believe it is a good idea) be prepared to fill it a couple of times before the oil seeps through the filter. Just don't over fill it because a new filter full of clean oil is just as heavy going on as an old filter with dirty oil is coming off.


I typically do a fuel filter every other oil change
So, how do you get the fuel filter out without all of the filtered crap rinsing off and settling to the bottom of the bowl?
 

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I usually only let the bowl drain for a few seconds, then pull the filter. Once the filter is out, drain it completely. This should rinse out any sediment that may have accumilated on the filter. With the filter out, I refill about half way with either ATF or gasoline (either will work, just looking for something with a solvent property) and let it sit while I go about another task (like draining the oil). Before installing new filter, drain the ATF/gaslone and refill bowl half way with either fresh ATF or Seafoam. Reinstall new filter and fire her up.
Most guys just drain and install a fresh filter with no issues. I like to make sure there is no sediment at the bottom of the bowl, hence the extra step. Running concentrated ATF or Seafoam directly in the bowl gives the injectors a nice purge. Can't say I notice a difference every time I do it, but i certainly noticed a difference before/after the first time as far as injector noise.
Happy to say I believe I've done my last filter change with a fuel bowl however, as the truck is getting E-fuel and a WVO conversion this winter.
 

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Good post,never thought about cleaning the bowl,I swear by Seafoam,one of my tanks fuel gauges quit working so I put in a can of SF with a full tank and it cured the problem .
 

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I usually only let the bowl drain for a few seconds, then pull the filter. Once the filter is out, drain it completely. This should rinse out any sediment that may have accumilated on the filter. With the filter out, I refill about half way with either ATF or gasoline (either will work, just looking for something with a solvent property) and let it sit while I go about another task (like draining the oil). Before installing new filter, drain the ATF/gaslone and refill bowl half way with either fresh ATF or Seafoam. Reinstall new filter and fire her up.
Most guys just drain and install a fresh filter with no issues. I like to make sure there is no sediment at the bottom of the bowl, hence the extra step. Running concentrated ATF or Seafoam directly in the bowl gives the injectors a nice purge. Can't say I notice a difference every time I do it, but i certainly noticed a difference before/after the first time as far as injector noise.
Happy to say I believe I've done my last filter change with a fuel bowl however, as the truck is getting E-fuel and a WVO conversion this winter.
Way to go!
E fuel and WVO rock:D

My fuel filter changes are awesomely simple and quick, spin off, spin on:thumb:
 

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I've called Seafoam "Jesus Urine" for many years for a reason.
 

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Way to go!
E fuel and WVO rock:D

My fuel filter changes are awesomely simple and quick, spin off, spin on:thumb:
I've looked through the gallery you have there on your conversion. Nice work.
If you don't mind, I'd like to pick your brain over pm's/email on the nitty-gritty of your setup. I'm planning mine out to look quite similar.
 

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And if you choose to fill the new filter before you install it (I believe it is a good idea) be prepared to fill it a couple of times before the oil seeps through the filter. Just don't over fill it because a new filter full of clean oil is just as heavy going on as an old filter with dirty oil is coming off.
That's why I go sorta half-way. Pour about a quart into the filter, it usually fills it up, but then settles down to about half full as the media soaks it up. That way it's not too heavy, and won't create an awful spill if I let it slip.
 
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